RevUp Oil Consumption TSB and discussion
11-20-2007, 11:35 AM
#1981
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Originally Posted by MasterRacer
Sorry I haven't kept up with this Thread but ............have you guys seen this
http://nissan350zoilconsumption.com/...isclaimer.html
http://nissan350zoilconsumption.com/...isclaimer.html
11-20-2007, 01:39 PM
#1982
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Originally Posted by 06CPV35
^^^NICE FIND!!!
Wish there was one for G35's
To a couple posts above:
I always check cold and after sitting overnight. When I'm at low mark, 1qt has always brought it to the H mark for me with the almost 2yrs self monitoring I've done.
I don't trust verbally what Dealers say your oil level is as far as I can throw them.
My suggestion: Be physically present while they drain and measure oil, add oil, and/or top you off and physically show you are on the H reading; not over H.
I know for a fact I'd be 1/2qt over if they said I was 1.5qts low while on the L mark, but that's my VQ.
Read a G member started OC testing and fortunately for him, Dealer didn't mark/seal dip stick. He check his level much later on that day and it was 1/2qt+ above H mark. After 1000mi his dip stick reading would indicate less consumption that it actually would be. A little trick some Dealers do to hopefully deny you replacement...beware. And to think they seal/mark stick/drain plug to prevent dishonesty from Z/G owners draining, when they over add oil to miniumize OC consumption results
Shame on those Dealers 
Dealer trust issues...yup, I have them.
-ZeeForce-
You meant 5.0qts w/filter, not 4.7, right?
Wish there was one for G35's
To a couple posts above:
I always check cold and after sitting overnight. When I'm at low mark, 1qt has always brought it to the H mark for me with the almost 2yrs self monitoring I've done.
I don't trust verbally what Dealers say your oil level is as far as I can throw them.
My suggestion: Be physically present while they drain and measure oil, add oil, and/or top you off and physically show you are on the H reading; not over H.
I know for a fact I'd be 1/2qt over if they said I was 1.5qts low while on the L mark, but that's my VQ.
Read a G member started OC testing and fortunately for him, Dealer didn't mark/seal dip stick. He check his level much later on that day and it was 1/2qt+ above H mark. After 1000mi his dip stick reading would indicate less consumption that it actually would be. A little trick some Dealers do to hopefully deny you replacement...beware. And to think they seal/mark stick/drain plug to prevent dishonesty from Z/G owners draining, when they over add oil to miniumize OC consumption results
Shame on those Dealers Dealer trust issues...yup, I have them.
-ZeeForce-
You meant 5.0qts w/filter, not 4.7, right?
My dealership has not been sealing my dipstick, and they have already replaced my motor once. I don't know if they are sealing the oil drain plug, but to me that doesn't matter since I don't check my oil level there
. I check my dipstick myself after OC tests and haven't seen overfilling yet.
Last edited by joe_blow_xbox; 11-20-2007 at 02:10 PM.
11-20-2007, 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by joe_blow_xbox
Yep, I read this in the owners manual before. Big help, Nissan.
To me, the best way to determine this is
1. Wait for the car to be at L on the dipstick (it's going to happen sometime)
2. Put one quart oil in the car and wait some time for the oil to settle.
3. Verify where the measurement is on the stick. If it is H, then there are 1.0 quarts between L and H. If it is 1/3 below H, then there are 1.5 quarts between L and H. If it is 1/2 way between L and H, then there are 2.0 quarts between L and H.
That way we will know once and for all instead of speculating. Of course, if I do this, I will do this at the Nissan dealership so they see the car consumed oil.
Also, somebody could so something similar when changing oil. Put 3 quarts in and see if it is on the stick, then add 4th quart and read the stick again, then 5th quart and read the stick again. Calculate from there how many quarts between H and L.
Now I am having Nissan change my oil because they will have records of when it was changed, and how much it was low. The first time I went in for OC, they said my filter was "seeping" so it didn't count as an OC check. I have a painted garage floor and there was NO drops of oil on the floor.
BTW, I am checking my oil level in the morning on a coled engine for consistency.
ZeeForce, thanks for your efforts on this list.
To me, the best way to determine this is
1. Wait for the car to be at L on the dipstick (it's going to happen sometime)
2. Put one quart oil in the car and wait some time for the oil to settle.
3. Verify where the measurement is on the stick. If it is H, then there are 1.0 quarts between L and H. If it is 1/3 below H, then there are 1.5 quarts between L and H. If it is 1/2 way between L and H, then there are 2.0 quarts between L and H.
That way we will know once and for all instead of speculating. Of course, if I do this, I will do this at the Nissan dealership so they see the car consumed oil.
Also, somebody could so something similar when changing oil. Put 3 quarts in and see if it is on the stick, then add 4th quart and read the stick again, then 5th quart and read the stick again. Calculate from there how many quarts between H and L.
Now I am having Nissan change my oil because they will have records of when it was changed, and how much it was low. The first time I went in for OC, they said my filter was "seeping" so it didn't count as an OC check. I have a painted garage floor and there was NO drops of oil on the floor.
BTW, I am checking my oil level in the morning on a coled engine for consistency.
ZeeForce, thanks for your efforts on this list.
11-20-2007, 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Mid117
Well, at least the new motor(the V1) isn't burning any oil....changed the oil at a local shop, and they found no issues with the oil level.
Did you want to update your stats on the list?
Template:
Status:
So Far So Good – Still Pending
Some OC – Still Pending
Still Pending
Still Consuming
Success
OC: quarts per 1k miles: (please convert to 1k miles)
Engine Install Date:
Engine part number:
Mileage on Engine: (new installed engine, not total mileage on vehicle)
Mileage on current oil change interval of 3750 – 4000:
Oil Type/Brand/Weight:
11-20-2007, 03:43 PM
#1985
Originally Posted by howardka
Well, this could signal the end of any of us getting any real satisfaction. Class action suites usually just make the lawyers rich and the claimants get very little. Here comes the $5 off your next oil change coupons and $10 million for the lawyers.
Point well acknowledged.
Originally Posted by joe_blow_xbox
Thanks for the info 06CPV35. This sounds like the most conclusive test yet H to L is 1.0 Quarts. It looks like my car is consuming what I thought it was consuming.
My dealership has not been sealing my dipstick, and they have already replaced my motor once. I don't know if they are sealing the oil drain plug, but to me that doesn't matter since I don't check my oil level there . I check my dipstick myself after OC tests and haven't seen overfilling yet.
My dealership has not been sealing my dipstick, and they have already replaced my motor once. I don't know if they are sealing the oil drain plug, but to me that doesn't matter since I don't check my oil level there
. I check my dipstick myself after OC tests and haven't seen overfilling yet.
Originally Posted by ZeeForce
Ok this is a start, is there anything that should also be covered and if so, in what order? Please chime in or shoot me a PM. My goal is to get something together for the newcomer so he will not have to read all 100 pages to come up to speed. One post that will tell it all, in a nutshell.
-Curtis
-Curtis
Anyone know exactly what type of oil NNA requires for a valid OC test?
My Dealer said it doesn't matter...Dino or Synth as long as it's 5w-30. Hmmm...think I smell a red flag and automatic denial if Synth is/was used in testing. Can anyone confirm this?
11-20-2007, 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by 06CPV35
Anyone know exactly what type of oil NNA requires for a valid OC test?
My Dealer said it doesn't matter...Dino or Synth as long as it's 5w-30. Hmmm...think I smell a red flag and automatic denial if Synth is/was used in testing. Can anyone confirm this?
My Dealer said it doesn't matter...Dino or Synth as long as it's 5w-30. Hmmm...think I smell a red flag and automatic denial if Synth is/was used in testing. Can anyone confirm this?
At the time the dealership changed my oil with synthetic, they looked at my cylinder walls and determined they were "scored and blue" due to lack of lubrication. That is when I got my new motor.
For the second motor, I am using dino oil so far even though a technician said I could use synthetic after 1200 mile break in.
11-20-2007, 04:39 PM
#1987
Originally Posted by joe_blow_xbox
My dealership replaced my motor after they put synthetic oil in at my request. I was trying to determine if the OC was worse with synthetic. I had like 18000 miles at that time. They didn't deny it.
At the time the dealership changed my oil with synthetic, they looked at my cylinder walls and determined they were "scored and blue" due to lack of lubrication. That is when I got my new motor.
For the second motor, I am using dino oil so far even though a technician said I could use synthetic after 1200 mile break in.
At the time the dealership changed my oil with synthetic, they looked at my cylinder walls and determined they were "scored and blue" due to lack of lubrication. That is when I got my new motor.
For the second motor, I am using dino oil so far even though a technician said I could use synthetic after 1200 mile break in.
PM sent
11-20-2007, 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by ZeeForce
Excellent idea, I am having the dealer change my oil in the next week or two, it’s on the 05, but they are the same in oil capacity. I will have them do the pour method until it reaches the “L” hash mark, then pour more till it reaches the H hash mark. Unfortunately the 06 V2 has a way to go, and I just took a cold reading yesterday and it was ¼ down from the “H” hash mark……dread… but it’s still in the break in period, so no worries for the time being.
Good luck with the V2. I know the break in feeling my new V1 was down to 3/4 from "H" after 1000 miles. Nissan changed the the oil after 1200 mile break in was over. Now any OC better be official.
11-20-2007, 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by 06CPV35
^^^NICE FIND!!!
Wish there was one for G35's
To a couple posts above:
I always check cold and after sitting overnight. When I'm at low mark, 1qt has always brought it to the H mark for me with the almost 2yrs self monitoring I've done.
I don't trust verbally what Dealers say your oil level is as far as I can throw them.
My suggestion: Be physically present while they drain and measure oil, add oil, and/or top you off and physically show you are on the H reading; not over H.
I know for a fact I'd be 1/2qt over if they said I was 1.5qts low while on the L mark, but that's my VQ.
-ZeeForce-
You meant 5.0qts w/filter, not 4.7, right?
Wish there was one for G35's
To a couple posts above:
I always check cold and after sitting overnight. When I'm at low mark, 1qt has always brought it to the H mark for me with the almost 2yrs self monitoring I've done.
I don't trust verbally what Dealers say your oil level is as far as I can throw them.
My suggestion: Be physically present while they drain and measure oil, add oil, and/or top you off and physically show you are on the H reading; not over H.
I know for a fact I'd be 1/2qt over if they said I was 1.5qts low while on the L mark, but that's my VQ.
-ZeeForce-
You meant 5.0qts w/filter, not 4.7, right?
So we have another confirmation the oil is 1 qt low between the hash marks.
I always have the dealer show me the reading before and after and container they are using to top it, they using have quantity level markings on the container. I am going to try the method I mentioned above on my next oil change. True many dealers have over filled to make it so there will not be much OC when you come back in 1k mi for the OC test.
5.0 qts w/filter - Correct and good point, looking at the service manual the first figure is, I guess is “units”, whatever that means. The correct figure is in parenthesis for US qts.
11-20-2007, 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by 06CPV35
Haven't forgotten about this. Still putting together some facts/knowledge/experience for your page 1 synopsis for new comers of this plague.
Anyone know exactly what type of oil NNA requires for a valid OC test?
My Dealer said it doesn't matter...Dino or Synth as long as it's 5w-30. Hmmm...think I smell a red flag and automatic denial if Synth is/was used in testing. Can anyone confirm this?
Anyone know exactly what type of oil NNA requires for a valid OC test?
My Dealer said it doesn't matter...Dino or Synth as long as it's 5w-30. Hmmm...think I smell a red flag and automatic denial if Synth is/was used in testing. Can anyone confirm this?
It does not matter on the oil used for NNA testing. Weight? My dealer used dino 10w-30 on the second round of OC testing in the hope of using a heavier oil would reduce the OC... Not... So weight did not matter either. I do recall way back (several hundred pages) in the early stages that users of synth were consuming more oil than dino with the OC issue cars. A lot of them switched back to try and reduce the OC. Safe to say that with OC issue cars, synth is going to burn more than dino. Look at it this way, if you are looking to get a replacement engine, wouldn’t you benefit with a type of oil that is going to consume more? If that is your intention, to show more consumption = replacement engine.
11-20-2007, 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by joe_blow_xbox
Wow, you have multiple Zs? One is plenty for me to hear from my wife about.
Good luck with the V2. I know the break in feeling my new V1 was down to 3/4 from "H" after 1000 miles. Nissan changed the oil after 1200 mile break in was over. Now any OC better be official.
Good luck with the V2. I know the break in feeling my new V1 was down to 3/4 from "H" after 1000 miles. Nissan changed the oil after 1200 mile break in was over. Now any OC better be official.
The other is a 05 MT SS Non Rev up with 43k mi, does not burn a drop. Castrol GTX 5w-30 until it hit 32k, and then changed to Royal Purple 10w-30.
Ouch 3/4 on the first 1k of the engine. I would not expect much better until you have gone through a complete oil interval which is 3750 – 4400 miles. You will probably still see some OC until you hit 3750-4k mi on the engine, after that I would be concerned. I know the technicians say these cars are broke in at 500-1200 mi, but unless the rings seated properly and if they did not, obviously not as you were consuming a bit at 1k mi, then hopefully by 3750 they will be seated. You may want to consider a Used Oil Analysis on the next oil change, it’s $50.00 for a Dyson Analysis, very detailed and would show if there are any mechanical defects with the engine. Like rings that are not seated or other mechanical failures that would lead to oil consumption. It’s good you flushed the oil after 1200 mi, as that would empty out all the metal shavings from a new engine during break in.
A couple of pics of the two Z’s that are parked in the same garage every night. How sweet it is, also a plus for trouble shooting, I can always check it on the other Z.
Here is the 05 SS
And the 06 V2
11-20-2007, 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by ZeeForce
Congrats, you made it through the break in period, or did you drain the oil early? The last update on the stats list has you at 600 miles on the V1.
Did you want to update your stats on the list?
Template:
Status:
So Far So Good – Still Pending
Some OC – Still Pending
Still Pending
Still Consuming
Success
OC: quarts per 1k miles: (please convert to 1k miles)
Engine Install Date:
Engine part number:
Mileage on Engine: (new installed engine, not total mileage on vehicle)
Mileage on current oil change interval of 3750 – 4000:
Oil Type/Brand/Weight:
Did you want to update your stats on the list?
Template:
Status:
So Far So Good – Still Pending
Some OC – Still Pending
Still Pending
Still Consuming
Success
OC: quarts per 1k miles: (please convert to 1k miles)
Engine Install Date:
Engine part number:
Mileage on Engine: (new installed engine, not total mileage on vehicle)
Mileage on current oil change interval of 3750 – 4000:
Oil Type/Brand/Weight:
11-20-2007, 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Mid117
I have 900 miles on my new V1(changed oil at about 600-700 miles)....I have to check, next time I drive it...it's just been sitting for the past 2 weeks. So no update as of now...however, I still get that stupid "cricket" noises from under the hood.
"Cricket noises" I also got them when I first picked up the V2, but as we all know how the noises seem to disappear when you get it to the dealer. Mine disappeared. The service mgr and I sat there with our ears all over the engine bay until the fan kicked in...None found. Although the other day the crickets reappeared after racing the engine a bit and then heard it, of course when pulling into the garage. It will probably disappear again once I get to the dealer.
11-21-2007, 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by ZeeForce
Dunno who is worse my brother or your wife…jk..my bro is pretty cool about it, he beat up the regional rep (NNA) with his law back ground and then BAM ! got the replacement engine.
The other is a 05 MT SS Non Rev up with 43k mi, does not burn a drop. Castrol GTX 5w-30 until it hit 32k, and then changed to Royal Purple 10w-30.
Ouch 3/4 on the first 1k of the engine. I would not expect much better until you have gone through a complete oil interval which is 3750 – 4400 miles. You will probably still see some OC until you hit 3750-4k mi on the engine, after that I would be concerned. I know the technicians say these cars are broke in at 500-1200 mi, but unless the rings seated properly and if they did not, obviously not as you were consuming a bit at 1k mi, then hopefully by 3750 they will be seated. You may want to consider a Used Oil Analysis on the next oil change, it’s $50.00 for a Dyson Analysis, very detailed and would show if there are any mechanical defects with the engine. Like rings that are not seated or other mechanical failures that would lead to oil consumption. It’s good you flushed the oil after 1200 mi, as that would empty out all the metal shavings from a new engine during break in.
A couple of pics of the two Z’s that are parked in the same garage every night. How sweet it is, also a plus for trouble shooting, I can always check it on the other Z.
The other is a 05 MT SS Non Rev up with 43k mi, does not burn a drop. Castrol GTX 5w-30 until it hit 32k, and then changed to Royal Purple 10w-30.
Ouch 3/4 on the first 1k of the engine. I would not expect much better until you have gone through a complete oil interval which is 3750 – 4400 miles. You will probably still see some OC until you hit 3750-4k mi on the engine, after that I would be concerned. I know the technicians say these cars are broke in at 500-1200 mi, but unless the rings seated properly and if they did not, obviously not as you were consuming a bit at 1k mi, then hopefully by 3750 they will be seated. You may want to consider a Used Oil Analysis on the next oil change, it’s $50.00 for a Dyson Analysis, very detailed and would show if there are any mechanical defects with the engine. Like rings that are not seated or other mechanical failures that would lead to oil consumption. It’s good you flushed the oil after 1200 mi, as that would empty out all the metal shavings from a new engine during break in.
A couple of pics of the two Z’s that are parked in the same garage every night. How sweet it is, also a plus for trouble shooting, I can always check it on the other Z.
I really like the Interlagos Fire, it was the other color I was considering. Nice cars.
I will keep you updated with my OC.
11-21-2007, 08:22 PM
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^ ^
I could use a beater to haul around lumber and such.
Thanks for the compliment, slowly modding them. The IF gets a lot compliments for it's color.
Happy Thanksgiving!
I could use a beater to haul around lumber and such.
Thanks for the compliment, slowly modding them. The IF gets a lot compliments for it's color.
Happy Thanksgiving!
11-21-2007, 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by ZeeForce
Dunno who is worse my brother or your wife…jk..my bro is pretty cool about it, he beat up the regional rep (NNA) with his law back ground and then BAM ! got the replacement engine.
The other is a 05 MT SS Non Rev up with 43k mi, does not burn a drop. Castrol GTX 5w-30 until it hit 32k, and then changed to Royal Purple 10w-30.
Ouch 3/4 on the first 1k of the engine. I would not expect much better until you have gone through a complete oil interval which is 3750 – 4400 miles. You will probably still see some OC until you hit 3750-4k mi on the engine, after that I would be concerned. I know the technicians say these cars are broke in at 500-1200 mi, but unless the rings seated properly and if they did not, obviously not as you were consuming a bit at 1k mi, then hopefully by 3750 they will be seated. You may want to consider a Used Oil Analysis on the next oil change, it’s $50.00 for a Dyson Analysis, very detailed and would show if there are any mechanical defects with the engine. Like rings that are not seated or other mechanical failures that would lead to oil consumption. It’s good you flushed the oil after 1200 mi, as that would empty out all the metal shavings from a new engine during break in.
A couple of pics of the two Z’s that are parked in the same garage every night. How sweet it is, also a plus for trouble shooting, I can always check it on the other Z.
Here is the 05 SS
Attachment 168500
And the 06 V2
Attachment 168501
The other is a 05 MT SS Non Rev up with 43k mi, does not burn a drop. Castrol GTX 5w-30 until it hit 32k, and then changed to Royal Purple 10w-30.
Ouch 3/4 on the first 1k of the engine. I would not expect much better until you have gone through a complete oil interval which is 3750 – 4400 miles. You will probably still see some OC until you hit 3750-4k mi on the engine, after that I would be concerned. I know the technicians say these cars are broke in at 500-1200 mi, but unless the rings seated properly and if they did not, obviously not as you were consuming a bit at 1k mi, then hopefully by 3750 they will be seated. You may want to consider a Used Oil Analysis on the next oil change, it’s $50.00 for a Dyson Analysis, very detailed and would show if there are any mechanical defects with the engine. Like rings that are not seated or other mechanical failures that would lead to oil consumption. It’s good you flushed the oil after 1200 mi, as that would empty out all the metal shavings from a new engine during break in.
A couple of pics of the two Z’s that are parked in the same garage every night. How sweet it is, also a plus for trouble shooting, I can always check it on the other Z.
Here is the 05 SS
Attachment 168500
And the 06 V2
Attachment 168501
About to go downstairs and check the oil level on the V2 now. On a side note the V2 is running strong.
Last edited by 9kFever; 11-22-2007 at 01:43 AM.
11-22-2007, 01:42 AM
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Discouraging News-- Checked the oil level on my V2 that has about 600 miles on the clock. .75 QTS low after babying the damn thing. I had checked the oil when I picked the car up and it was right on the H. Now it is half way between the H and L. BBB will be contacted on Friday to reopen my case with NNA. As this is the third motor (first two burned through 2 qts every 700 miles), I will be requesting for a buyback or replacement.
=(
=(
11-22-2007, 04:43 AM
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Hey all,
I am new to this site and new to the oil consumption issue as well.
However, I am a loyal customer of Nissan and I can't believe that they are not addressing this issue when they are about to start pushing a $75k sports car. You would think nissan would want to address the oil consumption issues ASAP. This is a really bad move on thier part. I will def think twice before purchasing another Nissan or Infinity.
Sorry your on a third motor and still no fix. Specially a V2, Damn!
Good luck with the BBB. Hope you get your buy back.
I am new to this site and new to the oil consumption issue as well.
However, I am a loyal customer of Nissan and I can't believe that they are not addressing this issue when they are about to start pushing a $75k sports car. You would think nissan would want to address the oil consumption issues ASAP. This is a really bad move on thier part. I will def think twice before purchasing another Nissan or Infinity.
Sorry your on a third motor and still no fix. Specially a V2, Damn!
Good luck with the BBB. Hope you get your buy back.
11-22-2007, 07:24 AM
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Still burn 1qt every 1K miles. Compression test showed now problems. (all cylinders around 185). Would be a hard fight for a new engine. Also, spoke to a friend to designs engines for cadillac. They have a few engines, especially in the early 2000s that burned up to or >1qt per 1K miles. Basically it can be due to the aluminum heads. When they heat up they do not expand symetrically. As a result, you can get larger gaps between the rings and cylinder walls in some areas and tighter gaps in other areas. It seems alot of engines (Cadillac, Honda, BMW) burn oil to some degree and it depends on the aluminum composite. Those burning a lot more oil probably do have ring and other issues.
11-22-2007, 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Earlz350
Hey all,
I am new to this site and new to the oil consumption issue as well.
However, I am a loyal customer of Nissan and I can't believe that they are not addressing this issue when they are about to start pushing a $75k sports car. You would think nissan would want to address the oil consumption issues ASAP. This is a really bad move on thier part. I will def think twice before purchasing another Nissan or Infinity.
Sorry your on a third motor and still no fix. Specially a V2, Damn!
Good luck with the BBB. Hope you get your buy back.
I am new to this site and new to the oil consumption issue as well.
However, I am a loyal customer of Nissan and I can't believe that they are not addressing this issue when they are about to start pushing a $75k sports car. You would think nissan would want to address the oil consumption issues ASAP. This is a really bad move on thier part. I will def think twice before purchasing another Nissan or Infinity.
Sorry your on a third motor and still no fix. Specially a V2, Damn!
Good luck with the BBB. Hope you get your buy back.