I was hanging out with Chris (CT350Z) last night, and even though we both drove short distances to the local starbux, when we popped our hoods, it was crazy hot. Even after about 40 mins. I can only imagine the amounts of heat radiated by a turbo. Is there any kinda of solution to making the engine bay cooler? Just curious and I've never seen stuff for that.

We are in Miami, which at 11:00pm it's still 84 degrees outside.

The only thing I can think of is like a large cooling fan. I'm a huge fan of the Shelby Cobra. I've noticed on some of the kit cars, people have installed Large fans in order to cool the radiator and engine bay. Cobra's tend to run high temps in bumper to bumper traffic.

 

How about a vented hood? Jet-hot or similar coating on the headers or manifolds?

 

1) Better Radiator would help.
2) The addition of an Oil Cooler would help.
3) Wrapping your headers would help.
4) Vented hood would help.
5) Wiring up a relay to your oem fan would give you the ability to run the fan when you wanted, as opposed to the temp sensor tripping it.

 

Here is a short-list of suggestions:

1) Upgraded large core radiator
2) Oil Cooler
3) Upgraded Spal Fans 2400cfm (GTM has a kit that we use on the strokers, and track engines)
4) Switch to Evans NPG+ waterless coolant
5) Vented Hood
6) For track events, remove the windshield diffusers, and weather stripping near the firewall.

 

Are the Spal fans g35/350z specific?

 

Remember the cylinder head temperature is what's important. The inexpensive coolant temp sensors are used as a low cost surrogate.

 

No they are not. I just get them through GTM, since he has already put the kits together, with relays, wiring, mounting brackets..etc..etc. But you could certainly piece one together yourself.

 

Very good point indeed. Temps sensors for the block and heads would be ideal.

 

Are there any on the market that can easily be added?
Is 226 F coolant temp anything to worry about? Thanks

 

Great info guys. I appreciate the input. I will be going FI sometime this year and I'm looking at ways to keep temps down, since it's about 85 almost year round.

 

Any coolant temp above 199.9F signals ecu to begin to reduce ignition advance usually 1.0 degree per 5F increment . 226F would be a ~~ 5.0 degree reduction.

Built in Summer overheat protection software.

 

as far as engine radiant heat, after i put in my iso thermal plenum spacer with the coolant control valve i felt a huge difference in temp. i can pop my hood after a 30 minute drive and have very lil heat

 

Normally on the streets, in NJ, with AC on, I rarely see my coolant temp above 200 F, but couple weeks ago I had a ~10 seconds spike of 226F coolant temp on the road course with ~215F being average for the session.

Q45tech, I remember reading your posts in water wetter or royal purple ice? thread so I will be buying distilled water soon.

However, looking at the Cipher logs I didn’t notice much, if any, ignition timing being pulled down (with ~29 degrees being average while at WOT) as the coolant temp raised from 195 to 221 F.

Sharif, I will try removing windshield diffusers but wonder if that would have any negative effect on the front down-force?

Jes-Z, I apologize if this is thread highjack.
Btw, I already have MD’s 1/2" Thermo Spacer + Copper Thermal Kit

 

purple ice is great

 

These high coolant ignition advance reductions occur at idle and low- mid rpms/load conditions. At some upper rpm [WOT] the KS system is disregarded along with summer protection..............assumming that an emergency acceleration is required thus reliability and longevity is less important than avoiding a head on collision from reduced power in a pass.

The fact that the coolant temp is a surrogate for cylinder head temperature means it can be trimmed with variable resistor [10-50 ohms in series] to make ecu see a lower temperature...................don't get carried away 5F colder would be considered max.

Distilled water, 20% AF for corrosion, Wetter Water or other, and -5F correction...........might be good for Summer.


Years ago BMW had toggle switches in a sealed box under hood to trim coolant sensor, fuel enrichment, and ignition advance to allow cars to be sold across Europe where fuel quality and temperature varied ---------Sweden to Sicily. poor mans tune

 

Q45, why dont you stop by our shop sometime when you are free?

 

Hi-jacking was helpful. Now I'm getting real answers. I will be doing the plenum spacer and Pop Charger w/ the CF Air Duct soon. That might help a little bit.