does any have a write up on how to put in the stainless steel clutch line. I have an idea but i rather be sure......

 

Ive been searching too. No luck

 

Its extremely easy. I dont have pictures to share with you, but I can give you a narrative...

-Lift car on jackstand/lift
-Get under car and locate clutch slave cylinder, it will be on the lower driver's side of the transmission
-Follow clutch line up to where it meets with clutch hardline
-Using an 8mm open end wrench, detatch clutch line from clutch hardline at top side of the mounting tab
-Using a 10mm (I think, might be 12mm) socket, remove clutch line banjo bolt from clutch slave cylinder
-Reverse procedure with new SS clutch line
-Bleed clutch at clutch slave cylinder, the bleeder screw is also 8mm

 

This picture should help

 

Sweet. I think i can tackle that. Thanks

 

Its really simple, I think the hardest part was getting the damn clip back on. Also, it would make things a lot easier if you had someone to help with the bleeding.

 

is it worth it? noticable difference?

 

Definately noticable difference going ss clutch line and Motul 600

 

Also remove the heat shield off the original and install it on your new SS line.

 

this is job is becoming my achilles heel.

i cannot get the piping disconnected from the old rubber clutch line. it will not come off. i have even tried using vice grips to turn it and it saint happening. my nut on the line is pretty worn and stripped now after using the clutch line wrench first then the vice. i am at my wit's end trying to take this crap off as it is the last thing i need to do for my JWT install and i can't get it done. any suggestions would be helpful

thanks

 

Mine was also stuck on there pretty tight. I had to use two sets of vice grips, one for the line to make sure i didn't rotate it (bad) the other for the fitting. Eventually it came loose.

 

well the funny thing with that is when i tried to that because i dropped it out of the lock that the nut to the old line is in by taking the clip out it still wouldn't move. man it sucks as this is the only thing holding me back. i think a day or two of letting it sit and me sit not getting mad about it will help though as i will try to fix it this weekend. thanks for the advice though

 

Try getting some lubricant and spraying it on there- let it penetrate so that hopefully the next day you'll be able to get that nut off of there. PB Blaster is good for this. Also, make sure you're turning it the right way since the nut is on the top.

 

We used pb blaster. Let it sit 5 minutes and came lose.

 

Nothing wrong with adding a SS clutch line, but upgrading the fluid to a higher temp fluid like Motul is proably more beneficial. Then again nothing wrong with doing both.

 

thanks for the suggestions guys as i am going to try them today. i do have another two questions though.........will putting this line on help with the amount of pressure my piston gives my throw arm on the clutch?

i need about another 1/2 inch of throw because it is hard to get things in gear when my engine is on and i have already adjusted my clutch pedal height out as far as it can go.

also for some reason the engagement is very low to the floor of my Z, i know that since it is a new clutch the engagement point might be different but that is really low.......any thoughts there?

i think it is just when i bled the original clutch the first time some air was still trapped inside the line. but i am not sure. we will see

 

Yes, your clutch will catch better. Just make sure you bleed all the air out once you change out the line and flush the fluid.

 

you mentioned that it is a new clutch, but is it an oem clutch? i don't think low engagement is normal for the oem clutch

 

At the risk of sounding like a moron, what is the benefit of a SS clutch line?

 

A lot of Z's have issues with the clutch fluid overheating and losing it's ability to hold pressure due to a rubber horse with goofy heat shielding being part of the clutch line. As a result, the clutch will end up feeling "spongy" and may not spring back up when using it after the engine has gotten hot.

Replacing this rubber hose with a stainless steel hose and flushing out the bobo fluid for something better fixes this issue.

It looks like now that it's summer, this issue is more prevalent. It will die down as temperatures start to drop due to seasonal weather changes.