On my latest Dyno run on my 100shot I made over 440+ ftlbs of tork. This is really bothering me because my HP wasnt that high at 364. I would hate to go back to a 75 shot and lose Hp just to get rid of that monster tork.

My stock dyno that day was 278/262, the best n20 run was 366/438.

Should I worry about breaking the motor hardcore with that tork??? I have a window switch and never spray below 4000 or over 6000...But I mean 440+! I was never expecting it to be so high and dont want it to. Its kinda taking the fun out of the N20 becasue its making just a little toooo much tork and I have to go down in shot.

THanks guys.

 

wow that dyno looks all over the place....nitrous is hard on a motor...especially a stock one....

 

Yea for some reason the dyno Pulls were all over the place compared to the Na runs. The AF was perfect on all N20 runs at around 12's and 11's. Uprev does there job well.

 

do you have an aftermarket fuel pump? I'm assuming its a wet kit, cause you can see where the fuel pressure drops right after the hit and the pump has to catch back up.

You are in that grey area for stock rods....and nitrous is "harder" on the motor than FI at same power levels.

Personally I'd back it down to the 75 shot.

 

heres the second run with lower bottle psi.

Stock fuel pump. Uprev said the AF was great. Im not sure if that has anything to do with the fuel pump psi or fuel pump not being able to hang.

The car is an absolute blast to drive, the tork comes on STRONG and nails u to the seat and the car just pulls and pulls. Its extremely addictive to drive. On a closed course I pulled 2-3 cars over and over on a friend with a APS TT Z with about 440whp. It top end he would pass me but the tork hit on my car would get me 2-3 cars instantley.

 

Where did you dyno?

Why are you not spraying the same on the dyno as you said (4000-6000rpms)?

 

Its inherit in all wet setups. really no way around it. As long as you're not crazy aggressive on the tune that part won't be a problem.

but like I said you're tq is in that grey area.

Now a good question would be, when the FI guys pop the stock motor is it happening during the tq peak or the hp peak??????? that part I don't know.

tom

 

My window switch was not working correctly so I unhooked it. The driver on teh dyno wasnt the best. I wanted to smack him about 3 times when he hit the rev limiters.

Dyno was at Brothers racing on a Dynojet. Temps where a beautiful 75 with about 50% humidity.

 

 

ROFL!!!

 

Nitrous makes some impressive numbers. Fun while it lasts.

 

I wonder that also. Although I have friends that have popped there motors backing down there driveways. I think when the rods are ready to go they just go. Maybe they weaken overtime and eventually just give in?

 

if you keep spraying like it does in the first dyno chart its just a matter of time. im curious is to why your chart looks the way it does. not familiar with dynos with n20. but im almost positive it shouldnt look like that.

 

The car is going to be retuned for a 11.8AFR.


Here is my stock Dyno from that day.

 

OK, lets talk about nitrous. I have pretty considerable experience with it and with a VQ35. My Dad's maxima runs 10.85 @ 126mph with a 200hp shot of nitrous on the stock motor. This has been sprayed like that numerous times and stayed together no prob.

The window switch is not necessary. You can spray at 1000rpm if you want, just don't do it in 6th gear. It's not the RPM that matters, but the engines ability to rev. So in 1st gear you can spray at 1000rpm because 1st gear the engine ability to rev is so high it will not bog. If you sprayed at 2000rpm in 6th the pressure and stress on the engine would be so high because it can not accelerate. So your window switch is wasted unless you make the mistake of spraying at low rpm in a high gear. If you like it and it makes it easier, that is a good reason to keep it. You can most definitely spray right to redline and even hit the rev limiter its no big deal on a wet kit. We have dyno'd my dads car with a 100hp shot and sprayed it from 2000rpm to 7300rpm the whole way though. I can post more info on his setup if you doubt me. Some of you may know him, Jime from the maxima.org forums, he is basically the go to person on that forum.

430ft/lbs is a lot, but remember unless you are spraying all the time the chances of blowing it up are low. A turbo car gets beat on with that power all the time, so the more you do it the more your gonna roll the dice on blowing it up. Dads car made well over 500 ft/lbs to the wheels with the 200hp shot. He made just under 300 N/A then 200 shot on top. Its a dual nozzle kit, 100 + 100. Sprays 100 in 1st right out of the hole, and 100 as soon as the slicks hook up, also in 1st. It's auto so 1st is longer than a 6mt.

If you were spraying all day every day, the chances of blowing it up would be much higher. If you are only going through 5-6 bottles a year on the street don't stress. We go through on average 1.5-2 bottles in a day at the track and it still has not blown up yet on the stock motor. He sprays 100hp shot all the time on the street tuning and setting up the UTec and Suprastick (auto tranny computer) so the motor has seen a 100hp shot so many times we couldn't possibly count.

So don't sweat it is what I am saying. I know a lot of guys are going to argue with me etc. But know this, we really do what I have said, have been using nitrous for 10+ years on a lot of cars and have the experience and knowledge and proof to back up what I am saying. Not trying to pull my "you know what" out just that you can know my opinion comes from a lot of experience specifically in this area. There are lots of things I don't know anything about, and a few I do. This is one of those areas.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A0Rj76q5Vyw

 

I agree with ^^, I have been following Jime's work since before I even knew how to change oil, and him and his son can def back up what they say about a VQ, it be 3.0, or 3.5.

The secret is in the tune. Iv pushed my 3.0 to the limit, with nitrous/turbo/meth injection. as for the 3.5, yea the most commons failure are rods (unlike 3.0's). If money is not an issue, it dosnt hurt upgrading rods to have a peace of mind. It sucks, having stuck in the back of your mind "will my motor blow" every time you floor it.

 

Please stop spreading bad/wrong information about nitrous. If used properly, it's not bad for your engine at all. I don't see a problem with his set up, as it's nitrous (something that isn't used constantly). Plus, if you've taken the appropriate precautionary measures, there's even less to worry about. Still, read on, if you're worried.

If you're that worried about the huge torque (spelled t-o-r-q-u-e) increase, then stop spraying at a low RPM and start spraying between 4k and 4.5k. Another option would be to use a progressive controller to ramp up the nitrous. Yet another possible solution would be to have a 2-stage set up.

Additionally, it he dyno operator is hitting the rev limiter after being asked not to, he's just plain retarded. That means he has no regard for others' possession and has poor business ethics.

Lastly, nitrous related threads belong in the nitrous forum. As you can see (and no offense to those who replied), none of the posts were helpful thus far, except the posts from those with experience using nitrous oxide.

 

Nice to meet you Jime's son! He's spoken highly of you on the org in the past. He's paved my road to nitrous, and now has lead me to stand on my own in other areas as well. Your dad is insane in the right of ways.