Hi guys, I did read several threads on clutch problems, I have a 08 touring with 12k miles, take it to the drag 2 times only, in some of the runs the clutch got stuck to the floor and not returning until I pulled in with my foot, well the problem I'm seeing now is that when I start the car after several hours the clutch is somekind of soft and it returns in 2 phases mid way pop up and then gets back to normal this within a couple of seconds, then after a 5 minute driving it gets back to normal.

I have read that the stock clutch can last between 40-80k miles, if it somehow helps to get an opinion it has been raining every 2 days, the streets are wet and humid weather.

Tks!

 

It doesn't seem like it's a problem with the disc itself. Maybe the CSC? If this problem is consistent I would take this into the dealer and have them replace it under warranty. Did you modify your clutch or flywheel?

 

No modifications, it is fully stock yet , sorry for my ignorance but what's CSC ? the clutch is under warranty ? Thanks!

 

If your pedal sinks or doesn't return, it's not the clutch. This usually happens when there's air in your clutch system. There's the clutch master cylinder, and the booster. If there are any leaks in these two areas, your pedal will also feel soft or not return.

 

Also check your clutch fluids.

 

CSC is the concentric slave cylinder. Unfortunately it seems clutches are not covered by warranty, if it is the clutch... Clutches are wear and tear components, just like tires.

 

I got an 03 and had to replace the clutch at 6,000 miles due to pedal not releasing from the floor(this was done by the dealer) 6 months later same crap synchros 2nd and 3rd this time. Keep in mind that all this is outta my pocket. Now 2nd and 3rd going out again yup the grinding noise whoo hoo. Any ideas? you would think that of all the people having the same problems that nissan would step up and resolve this issue im tired of spending 1600 on a new clutch this will be the 3rd time and yes i know how to drive a manual have been all my life. the funny part is that i've spent more on this clutch(stock) than i have for my drag car(modified) and i beat the hell outta the drag car and baby the Z.

 

I wonder if some are having the same problem I just discovered, my withdrawal lever ball pin broke and produced the same condition as a leaking master/slave cylinder. No clutch pedal return!

 

WOW this happened once when i first bought my car and i tried to do a burnout pedal got stuck and i didnt realize it until the smell hit me yep fried clutch But my 06 has just shy of 33k and i take it to the dragstrip about twice a month and do about 5 passes and drive back with a burnout every time i make a pass and it feels just fine Altough i think my throwout bearings are on the way out i here a rattle very minute but its there

 

My car does the same thing.. occasionally when dropping the clutch under high RPMs, it sticks halfway up and feels very weird. I can pop it back up with my foot. Sometimes the clutch acts normal, sometimes it sticks halfway down after i let up, but i just pull it back up with my foot. TO bearing is also making lots of noise.

Clutch is getting weak lately anyway, 50k miles on the stock one, so I haven't pursued this because I was just going to replace it soon anyway.

 

I am having the same problem. I have not been able to do a proper burnout because my clutch sticks to the ground. Mine is an 08 Touring, and it happens every time. I am under the impression this is a safety measure (until I read this). When I rev up to about 5000 rpms and drop the clutch it sticks but slowly comes out as I lower the rpms. It seems so controlled I assumed that was how it should work. I have read that the TCS can never completely turned off. I have also read you need to remove the brake light switch and turn off TCS to burnout, but it made no difference.

I doubt the problem is air in the hydraulic system, the CSC, etc. because the hydraulic system assists in disengaging the clutch. I broke the CSC on my old car and the problem was the car was always in gear (not that it would not get in gear).

The only part that confuses me is that it smells like a burning clutch after this happens, if it were truly a measure to protect the car, why would it burn the clutch.

I am not an expert by any means but I believe the problem is in the pressure plate. It is too weak.

Can anyone point me in the right direction?

 

Going to a drag strip on a stock clutch is not a great idea

You have to think about these things when you race your car. Using a street disc for racing (drag or any type of slipping environment) will "glaze" the surface of this OEM type material.

A street style clutch (stock or the like) is made for long life and Smooth engagement and is no way intended for drag racing.

Remember what the duty of your clutch can be, getting a 3000+ LB car moving from a dead stop and spinning the flywheel at 5000 to 7500 RPM or so and wanting the two to connect. Using a smooth organic material is not going to work for long. Doing this will absolutely glaze the disc Once the disc is glazed, it will no longer hold the same power it was originally designed to hold.

If you guys are going to drag race your cars you really need to think about getting a clutch that is designed to do that IE> 6 puck configurations.

Also, I am pretty sure there are threads about eliminating the stock in line clutch damper. The damper is there to save the drivetrain from abuse. This is designed to more slowly engage the clutch when dumped to prevent too large of a shock to the drivetrain and make the car a bit easier to drive for the less seasoned manual trans users.

 

The only way to fix the CSC problem:
https://my350z.com/forum/vq35hr/4495...r-problem.html