I couldnt do any logging today..because the Z got stuck in my drive way due to snow.. I will try n get em tomorrow for sure

 

Wow they really said to have it tuned by uprev to help find the problem....

 

out of curiousity have you checked the plugs. a long shot but maybe you are just having break down. idk pull them out and check.

 

I have, it doesn't throw any codes either it's as clean as can be. Besides if it were the plugs.. I would automatically know, the sound etc..

The only thing that bugs me is that.. Why doesn't the cruise control work?!?!?! I'm starting to think it has something to do with it... Maybe if the cruise control is fixed, it will also fix the throttle issue ( since they went down together) but I don't know what to look for.. As far as cruise control goes .. =\

 

thursday bumpp

 

it would see to me that the issue is the accelerator position sensor (its located on the gas pedal assembly), or something related therein

 

I swap the whole gas pedal assembly and still the same problem =(

 

but did you transfer the sensor from the old assembly to new? If not, perhaps a wiring harness issue somewhere

 

Yeah I completely swapped out the whole thing from my buddys Z.. The wiring that connects to the sensor, where does the other end go? I cant imagine how big of a PITA would be to follow the wiring..

 

you need a factory service manual

part of that harness goes to the throttle body IIRC - been about a year since I converted mine from DBW to cable, so I don't remember off the top of my head

 

Did you do any logging? Wheel speed imbalance can cause cruise not to work - either because of wheel speed sensor issues or because of use of incorrect sized wheels/tires front to rear.

Get the FSM - it's free if you search the net or at most $20 if you have to pay for the download directly from Nissan...

 

Hey i Also have this same problem with my Z! I have tried and replaced almost everything as well and still nothing! However my Rpm cut out happened the first time at 1500-2000 after the car sat it was fine for a few days now it cuts at 3500-4000. I have noticed peddle presure is a factor... if it is pressed hard it always cuts however if i put slow constant presure i can archive as high a rpm as i want !! I was given the idea to check the intank fuel filter with the thought it might be clogged and cut of with presure yet allow the gas to pass through under minimal load ? thoughts idea hope this helps would love to find the issue as i am sure you would as well will keep you posted!

 

Thanks man!! I will check out the filter as well.. I coudltn get any logging done because of snow =( my car is stuck and im waiting for the new bumper to come.


Anyways... When I had the vortech.. I also had the walbro in place.. I did do the drill procedure ( from CJM's website ) for the regulator.. could that by ANY chance effect the pressure, now that I went NA and stock fuel pump?

 

YOu can log AFR with Cipher and see if it spikes indicating a fuel delivery problem.

 

Vas, are you using taillights other than OEM?

People have had the same issues you've had (including nonfunctional cruise control) because of excessive power draw from aftermarket tails. Your problem is an ECU voltage issue, regardless of if you have aftermarket tails or not.

See these threads for details.
https://my350z.com/forum/maintenance...eleration.html
https://my350z.com/forum/exterior-an...t-led-fix.html

 

I have changed my tails... I have LED ones.. hmm.. im gonna check it out

 

Wiring a resistor in parallel with the lights will increase (not decrease) total current draw. Of course that's what you want in this case....

Just to clarify/correct what was posted on the other thread...

 

Thankfully i havnt sold my stock tails yet.. I'm gonna swap them out tomorrow... God if this is it.. Beers are on me!

 

Congrats, your problem has been solved.

Next time mention ALL your mods in your first post

 

oh man i really hope. Iam doing the swap now.. Ineed to go get some bulbs though.

Btw.. I was getting curious ... I can understand that the after market LEDs take a lot of current.. but my problem also happens when the lights are OFF.. that means no current or anything related to the ECU because they are off.. Im confused..

one last thing.. Do I need to do some sort of computer reseting ? or anything of that sort? before I take it for a drive?