I installed the UR pulley set today and wanted to share a bit of information that I was not able to find on the site in my searches. I have the 5AT and was not quite sure of the best way to stop the crank pulley from spinning while removing and then later when tightening. I had heard some were using chain wrenches and such. Well, I found a small plate that is held on by two bolts located on the driver's side of the transmission. This plate when removed will give you very quick and easy access to the flywheel. You can then insert a crowbar into the opening to prevent the flywheel from turning thus allowing for the crank pulley bolt to be removed and/or tightened. I was able to do this by myself and once I found this opening it took 30 minutes to install the pulley.

 

So AT guys can use a lightened flywheel too??
Notice anything with the pullies on? I was told it's barely noticeable

 

UR claims that you have to give the ECU time to adjust before max gains. I went for a spin and my initial thoughts are an improvement in torque right around 2.5-3k. The car seems to respond to the accelerator better, a bit snappier.

 

I too have a 5at and was thinking about getting the UR pulleys as my first mod, post a short review if you can. thanks.

Edit: oops sorry, didnt see your last post, forget what i said =)

 

supposedly AT's dont have a flywheel...someone please clarify

 

That's what I thought too...

 

The engine flywheel is located on the crankshaft which is what the starter lines up with to turn the engine over for starting. The flywheel is not part of the transmission. An Auto goes flywheel, torque converter, then transmission.

 

Just so you understand that the flywheel on an automatic serves a different purpose than a flywheel on a manual. The flywheel on an automatic is usually much lighter to start with than on a manual transmission setup because the torque converter on an auto setup helps to smooth out the power pulses from the engine not the flywheel.

 

I learned something new today! Thanks zzzya!

 

The AT has what is called a flexplate not a flywheel.

 

Damn! Wish I would've known this trick 2 weeks ago when I struggled to get mine on! As far as how it feels (don't flame me I didn't do a dyno) intially, I was a little disappointed (only because it was 200 bucks)as it didn't feel like it made a whole lot of difference, although it did seem like it moved the tach needle a little quicker toward redline. Fast forward 2 weeks later after an ECU reset...Now, it DEFINETLY feels quicker! Might just be the "placebo effect", but it sure seems like it is. Dyno results I've seen in other threads say 2-5 HP, but it sure seems like more. Anyway, I'm glad I did the mod and am sure it made a difference- Just my .02 on the subject-

 

zzzya did you unplug the battery during install for the ECU reset?

 

Not sure if this was supposed to be to me, but no I didn't, I did the whole turn the key on, wait 3 secs, pump the gas peddle wait, etc I saw in a different thread about "resetting the ECU".
Here's the link-

http://www.technosquareinc.com/350reset.htm

TB

 

Thanks Todd

 

Just had the pullies and TS ECU put in and dynoed for a few days now. Sanes peppyer now and the Dyno Numbers are +8 whp for the combo on a 5AT. I'm now at 252.6

 

Some call it a flexplate and others call it the flywheel, really goes hand in hand.

No I did not reset the ECU yet and planned on looking into that some more tonight so thank you Todd for the link.

 

Anytime! Your both welcome-

 

Oh, one thing I forgot...I had to attempt that procedure like 5 times before it worked. There was a post in here somewhere that talked about how critical it is you follow it exactly (use a stop watch or your watch's second hand) If you're not right on the times, it won't work. So just expect it and be patient, you'll get it eventually...it does work!
Todd