I have an 03 z, I bought and installed the jwt clutch flywheel combo, about 2 months later I noticed that when I would shift quick I would hear a loud raddle / grind noise, it only does that when I shift fast, but when I take my time shifting if I wait for the rpms to drop a little then I shift normally, any ideas as to what it can be? I've been told is the throwout bearing as I did not have that piece replaced.

Also I don't want to buy a whole new clutch kit if not necessary, what would b the ideal parts to replace once I drop the tranny. Example clutch disc? Is any clutch disc compatible with the jwt clutch?

Someone please help any help at all is greatly appreciated.

 

Please post a video of you shifting quickly so we can hear the noise.

I also want to see how your quick shift compares to my 5AT, which doesn't make weird noises btw.

Better yet, post a video of your girlfriend shifting quickly. (I figured I'd save some of the other guys here some time by making the request early in the thread.)

 

Your JWT kit didn't include a new throwout bearing? Are you sure that your clutch pedal is adjusted correctly? If it's not, the clutch may not be fully releasing between quick shifts. Try backing the threaded rod for the master cyl. out of the clevis on the pedal a little.

 

im almost sure it came with a throwout bearing, I will have that checked out, also when i drive for a long time say about 30 or 45 min the clutch pedal seems to get stuck towards the bottom, i can still shift but i have to push the pedal all the way to the bottom for it to engage, than if i start pushing the clutch pedal over and over again it goes back.

either way i have to have the trans dropped, what should i replace once i drop the trans to have a worry free clutch for a while, clutch cable? master cylinder? clutch disc? and will an exedy disc work with the jwt clutch? bc i cant find a jwt anywhere, ive searched all over google and i just cant find the jwt disc by itself, sorry for all the questions im not very car savvy. i just need guidance as to what i need to buy.

 

to better explain it, i can have my clutch fully pressed and if i shift from 1st to 2nd to 3rd or even 4th rapidly i grind, not sure why, i have to push the clutch wait 1 or 2 seconds and than shift to 2nd gear and it shifts fine, and my clutch is also getting stuck also. and my clutch is no more than 6 months old no more than 6k miles.

 

try bleeding clutch. Might have some air in there and clutch not fully disengaging.

 

It's a shot in the dark to simply guess. But I can tell you that commonly a clutch grinds between gears because it doesn't disengage fully. General solutions would be to adjust the clutch pedal, replace the pilot bushing and replace or re-bleed the clutch hydraulics (slave and master cyl). If you are going to drop the trans, inspect the input shaft for damage or wear. Some times a burr can hold a disk from free floating. You will also want to inspect the disk spline itself for the same. Lastly, if you have found nothing wrong, remove the flywheel and set it on a bench. Lay the disk on it and bolt down the pressure plate just as it is in the car. Take the entire assembly and place it in a press and actuate the diapragm fingers. Generally, a clutch will begin to release at .300 of push on the fingers. It should be fully released by .450 of finger travel. By that, I mean you should be able to wiggle the disk around inside of the assembly when the fingers are pressed down .300-.450.

 

thanks alot all, i will bleed and adjust the clutch will keep u guys posted.

 

Any chance you have a picture or can take one of what you're describing here? Thanks.

 

More then happy to. The pictures show our SS 350z pressure plate in it's different stages of release. The digital calipers shows the height from the fingers of the diaphragm to the table which represents the flywheel surface. The digital readout in green in the background shows the lift of the plate in the pressure plate in 3 locations. The digital red readout is plateload.
(FYI, there is a digital readout that shows the reading I am manually taking with the calipers, but the sensor is busted and I'm waiting on the new one.)

At .241 of bearing or finger travel, the pressure plate starts to lift .021-.028 and by .448 the pressure plate is fully released .083-.092. To us, fully released is .060 with a puck and .080 with a full face disk. Less with a puck because of the lack of marcel or cushion bewteen friction surfaces.