ksuberk54

iTrader: (2)

I've had this clutch bracket on my car for almost a year and i can tell you that it is night and day difference. Car drives so much smoother. It's not all notchy shifting from 1st to 2nd. There's no lag or delay from the clutch. It's smooth. Much easier to drive. All around, 1000% better.

RandyK1

iTrader: (9)

I just put mine in today and all I can say is WOWWWWW!!!! Its sooooooooooo much better then it was. Thanks for making this!!!!!

RJM Performance

iTrader: (2)

You're very welcome I'm happy to hear your enjoying the new pedal

abarclay

iTrader: (41)

So I'm thinking this is more of an internal clutch problem than a bracket issue, but I recently had the rjm bracket installed and it felt great, no immediate problems. I made the short drive up to zdayz right after, once again, zero issues. The next morning though my clutch pedal was extremely mushy, ie zero pressure, at the very top of the clutch. However, after driving the car for about 5-10 minutes, the whole pedal became firm again. I had the same issue the next morning, but zero problems again after driving the car for about 10 minutes, and no problems for the rest of the day driving around Deals Gap.

I've had previous issues with my clutch where after continuous stop-and-start use (ATL traffic) my pedal would only return halfway up and I would have to use my foot to "pop it" back up.

I had the master cylinder and slave cylinder replaced when I had my Competition II clutch and flywheel installed about 20k miles ago.

Like I said earlier, I can tell a huge improvement in the engagement point, but only after driving for a few minutes. Any thoughts?

mx594

iTrader: (4)

abarclay -

Look at post 233 and 234. I had the same issue and following Ryan's recommendations improved (but did not eliminate) it. I still sometimes pull up on the pedal with my toe and notice that the engagement point changes by doing so. In fact I just stopped typing and went in the garage and looked - there is about 3/16" of space between the white bumper on the pedal arm and the body of the cruise control switch. I just got home from a ~1 hour drive so its definitely warmed up and the switch is definitely not holding it down. After pulling up on the pedal, the gap closed to about 1/16" and stayed there even after depressing the pedal a few times. Even then, that 1/16" results in a small amount of "floppy" movement at the top of the pedal travel, which is something that I have never felt in another car. Its different than the "free play" normally associated with clutch pedals - its slop. Every other clutch pedal I have felt comes all the way to the top and rests against a stop of some kind, such that there is always some small amount of preload present in the pedal and it always stops in the same place.

I am not convinced that the spring in the master cylinder is enough on its own to return the pedal FULLY to the top of the travel and expose the fluid recovery port every time, which is something that is guaranteed to happen with the helper spring in the stock pedal assembly.

I love the feel of the RJM pedal, but the sloppiness at the top of the travel and the fact that I can change the engagement point instantly by pulling up on the pedal once in a while have me wondering. I have noticed that I started a ritual of pulling up on the pedal with my toe first thing when I get in the car before trying to start it to "reset" the clutch so to speak. I had zero issues before I installed the bracket, so I don't think its related to my slave cylinder or master cylinder, although I cannot say for sure.

fastrex

Ryan, I really need to try this kit. Do you have any of the "old" kit left or a new one available now?

Thanks
Paul

abarclay

iTrader: (41)

mx594 - Thanks for the info!!!

RJM Performance

iTrader: (2)

mx594 is spot on the money for the problem your having. I would check the upper switch isn't holding the pedal down. Of the several hundred 350Z pedals I'v sold over the past year only a very small percentage of people have run into this and most are easily solved with the suggetions posted earlier in this thread as noted above.

mx594 if you're still having issues I wish you would have brought it to my attention sooner as there are a few more things you can try to eliinate it completely. Its possible the spring in your master cylinder is somewhat weaker than others but it should still be capable of fully returning every time if everything is moving freely. I would start by removing the lock nut holding the fulcrum bolt, push the bolt out so the arm can drop down and then grease up the bushings well with some white lithium grease. When you put the arm back in the bracket take note on if the bracket itself is tight on the arm, if so before putting the bolt back thru push the pedal sideways causing the main bracket to be opened or expanded side-side. The arm should slide in without resistance and not be pinched by the sides of the bracket when your done. Next tighten the lock nut until its just down but not pinching the bracket at all. Next check the angle of the clutch rod to the AFP slider. Is the clutch rod pushing at an off angle? It should be adjusted to push as straight and level as possible. Also a few people have sprayed some white litium spray lube where the clutch rod enters the MC which has helped with sticking and some squeeks as well.

Give those a try if you're still having issues not related to the upper switch.

Vantage_Works

subd

thatv35guy

iTrader: (1)

Just wanted to say that this clutch pedal has saved my clutch! I was so close to pulling the Stage 4, 6 Puck, Comp Clutch after just 800 miles, the shudder was unbearable! …but after I had Intense adjust the RJM pedal from about 50% to 85% the clutch is now infinitely better and much, much more livable! Thanks RJM for an awesome product!!!

One thing I had a question about… it seems life after 40 minutes of driving the engagement point shifts a bit and it throws off my gear changes a bit… anyone experienced anything similar? Thanks!

RJM Performance

iTrader: (2)

thev35guy, You're very welcome. I'm glad to hear you're enjoying your car more with the RJM pedal install and little additional pedal tuning. As for the engagement moving after 40miles how is it changing? (UP/Down) If you're not experiancing the low pedal when cold like a few people above had written about then my first instinct would be to change out the clutch fluid. During that first 800 miles when it was unlivable it may have cooked the fluid a few too many times degrading its boiling point and causing it to become spongy when hot. I'd flush the reservoir a couple times with some higher boiling point DOT4 fluid over the next week and see if it improves. If its low to start and comes up after 40 miles adjust the upper switch a little per the above discussion.

Cheers!

Nacho Z

Just pre ordered the Rev3 yesterday. I am very excited to about this Mod. Ryan thanks for the quick response to my e-mail.

RJM Performance

iTrader: (2)

Nacho Z, You're very welcome


For those who haven't seen or heard about the new Rev3 Pedal in development here's a few photos of the all new 350Z Rev3 AFP Complete Pedal Assemblies. The first production run of these new units is now underway and there are a few units left available from the Pre-Order Sale at the webstore. The Rev3's will begin shipping in about 2 weeks for all those patiently waiting to be amoung the first to get your hands on them.

I've been listening to everyones comments, concerns and constructive input over the past year and have rolled everything I've gained into one huge step forward for the 350Z/G35 pedal product. The V3 is a no holds barred, no compromise complete replacement pedal assembly that was designed to be Faster and Easier to Install + Much simpler to tune.

Based on my well proven and very successful 370Z/G37 AFP Pedal design released last year the new V3's feature a double adjustable 2pc pedal arm with a simple dial adjuster mechanism for fine tuning the AFP setting on the fly. Simply unlock the mechanism with a single allean head bolt for infinitely variable ajustment of fulcrum point while dialing in the clutch feel.

No more fumbling to get the clevis fork threaded in as the various forks simply spin on and pin in place like oem while continuing to ride on twin bearings for super smooth operation. Two forks are available: Comes standard with a Metric M8 threaded clevis for OEM Master Cylinders. Optionally to make the RJM Pedal fully compatible with Wilwood upgrade master cylinders is a clevis fork with 5/16-24 Threads. Or select to get both.

The entire pedal arm simply pins in place with a large hardened pin and hairpin clip. The main pivot point now rides on twin bronze bearings and there is a bearing pre-load system that allows all side-side slop to be eliminated while allowing free rotation of the bearings. The correct grease to lubricate the pivot bearings is supplied in the kit so nothing to buy or hunt down during the install.

A single acting torsion spring handles the pedal return duties to ensure the pedal always returns fully to *help eliminate any master cylinder issues. *Note the upper switch will still require proper setup to ensure the master cylinder can fully return as with all previous models.

The main bracket is now a more OEM like 1pc design and has a floating center cartidge that supports the clutch switches & pedal arm pivots in alginment while allowing the assembly to move up or down together for simple clutch rod alignment to the master cylinder. Two bolts clamp the center section from moving, simply loosen them, align the clutch rod and tighten them back down. These side bolts also serve to preload the bearings.

The 2pc pedal arm allows a secondary pedal height adjustment fully independant of the threaded clutch rod adjustment. This allows you to dial in the pedal feel and friction point at the rod without worrying about where the final pedal height will end up. At the end of tuning the rod simply adjust the pad height up or down so the pedal's level with the brake (or any other way you want) and lock it down.

With the pedal arm out its a 30 second operation to swing the main bracket into place over the master cylinder on the firewall and allows open access to tighten the 2 nuts and 1 bolt that hold the main bracket to the firewall. Spin the clevis fork on, then the arm goes up in place followed by inserting the main pin. Insert the main pin hairpin clip, insert the short pin for the clevis fork with its hairpin clip and its time for tuning!

F2CMaDMaXX

iTrader: (2)

Shut up and take my money!


Already ordered and can't wait for this to arrive

Qtip350z

Oh man I should have waited for this V3....I have the old V2 brand new still in the box still waiting to be installed. Any way to trade up?

RJM Performance

iTrader: (2)

LOL, It won't be long now

RJM Performance

iTrader: (2)

Qtip350Z , PM Sent

binder

iTrader: (8)

oh sweet baby jesus! I feel like a dinosaur having one of the first 100 beta units installed.

Sounds like I need to do an upgrade next winter.

djamps

iTrader: (1)

I still love my V1.

ksuberk54

iTrader: (2)

damn, I got last year's version last year. Oh well, it's way too much work to do over again. I like the results from my as well