Don't pull it so far towards you changing into second, it doesn't need it and will slip in much easier without it.

Don't down-shift to 1st. Just don't.

 

If you were having issues intermitantly getting into 2nd gear (mild grinding) already with the factory pedal than yes it sounds like you could be having an issue with the CSC but more likely the 2nd Gear Synchros which tend to be the first to go on our cars and more easily damaged.
As for down shifting into first as others have and surely will continue to say it is extremely bad for your transmission unless you're rev matching exactly to the right RPM's by blipping the throttle while the clutch is down before moving the shifter to 1st. Even done correctly and at very low speed (under 10mph) there is typically no need to shift down to 2nd while already rolling as there is plenty of torque to manouver in a parking lot or accelerate at a reasonable rate when getting back up to speed from a slow down in traffic.

If you've been down shifting into 1st from a roll without rev matching then my best guess is that your 1-2 synchro is starting to fail. You could try a tranmission fluid change to a better fluid such as Redline MT85 to see if it smooths out and may help extend the life of that synchro a little more. The other thing to try is having your clutch fluid flushed and refilled with a high quality, high temperature DOT4 fluid (not DOT 3 per Nissan) which may help if it turns out to be CSC related and you've never had this done before. Once the factory crap DOT3 fluid has been overheated and boiled a few times thru spirited driving or track days its toast (litterally turns black and nasty) and is likely causing some of the CSC issues people are seeing across all makes and models employing an OEM CSC. I know some Mustang, Corvette and Camero guys who flush the system with new fluid at every other oil change or after each track day due to burning the fluid.

You can certainly drop the AFP setting to 50% as well to see if it helps or simply up the friction point and pedal height some with the clutch rod. This will quickly give you more master cylinder stroke then you currently have to ensure complete dissengagement for testing before you go further with more involved changes to the AFP setting. Don't forget to tighten up the clutch rod nut firmly again after the change and never drive with it loose.

Also reset the upper cruise switch anytime you make clutch rod or AFP adjustments to ensure the master cylinder is fully returning to the top and not being held down by the switch.

Hopefully with those suggestions you'll find something to help your intermitant 1-2 issues.

 

Is the RJM website down? I am getting errors trying to open it but it was doing just fine last night!

 

raincityz, I just got home and checked the site and it was down. Sorry about that, I'd done a quick update of the available stock this morning and I guess the upload didn't take properly. I just reloaded it to the server so its up and working agai now.

Thanks for the heads up to the problem

 

No problem, thank you! Order posted, stoked

 

Thanks, Order Received and will ship tomorrow.

 

Just installed mine today. I've been sitting on it for 2 weeks waiting to get time to install it. It was a little tough due to the tight space under the dash and uncomfortable positions you have to get in (And this is coming from a guy who use to do car electronics for a living.) But after a bit of time, some busted knuckles, and a couple of claustrophobic panic attacks it is in. Like everyone has said, it's like driving a different car. Can't express how happy I am with the results and the service that I got from Ryan. I would definitely suggest this to anyone as a must have!!!

 

Ack, i've gone from, 'why would you need this' to 'omg i can't believe the stupid budget!!'

I honestly want this, but things are just stopping that from happening right now. The more i drive the car and think harder about the clutch, the more i realise i'm really concentrating on engagement during the drive

I just hope i can still get one once the money is available.

 

Definitely worth it! Especially for the price. I was very conscious of it because I switch back and forth between my Z and my other MT several times during the week. It's such a big difference now...for the better.

 

Good to hear

 

sorry for the dumb question but does this fit a 2006 enth? i go to the web site and it says 09 +years. maybe its just me

 

l2frankie there are two products currently in production.

There is the 350Z/G35 Pedal Bracket Kits (Rev 2.2 currently) for:
350Z 03'-08' All Models & Trims (Includes Nismo's, Roadsters ,etc)
G35 Coupes 03'-07'
G35 Sedans 03'-06'

There is also the 370Z/ G37 Complete Replacement Pedal Systems for:
370Z 09' & Up - All Models & Trims (Nismo's included)
G37 Coupes 08' & Up
G37 Sedan 09' & Up
G35 2ndGen Sedans 07' to 08' Only

So if you have a 350Z follow the 350Z/G35 tab from the RJM homepage to see the details on the 350Z Rev2.2 Bracket Kits.

Cheers!
Ryan

 

Thank You very much Ryan

 

You're very welcome

 

Awesome Product! I have the Zspeed Master Cylinder, AP Stainless Line, and Motul Fluid with this setup and like others have said its a completely different, for the better. I still need to adjust it as the window is pretty small as it sits in between 50-75%.

 

I'm really struggling with my clutch...
: (

I have a 2003 G35 Coupe, I'm running a Stage 4, 6 puck, Comp Clutch & JWT Flywheel.

I have about 400 miles on the motor and clutch... The clutch is unbearable, it shudders in every single gear, especially when you're trying to roll off the line and drive in traffic. I installed the RJM clutch pedal about 200 miles ago, I set it to 75% but there's still a lot of shudder/shaking when I'm engaging the clutch, it's making the car undeliverable...

Any suggestions?

Can I lower the actual pedal so there's less travel between the floor and the resting point of the clutch?

 

Shuddering/shaking in every gear sounds like maybe a warped flywheel problem or the 6Puck needs a lot more break-in.

How easy have you been driving it for break-in the past 400 miles?

In the past I had purchased a Spec Stage 3+ for a Mustang and it shook, shuddered and bucked like crazy when other owners claimed it was a great option for daily driver. Well I drove it easy for the first 500miles and it didn't get any better at all. I contacted Spec and they said it needed more break-in. Well I cursed them under my breath while listening to the rep and didn't beleive a word of it. So I put the car back on the lift and yanked it back out only to find the surfaces hadn't fully seated and you could see high spots and low spots where the faces were not fully bedded in. Took photos and sent them to Spec, they said once again only looked like it hadn't had enough break-in time. So I put it all back together and headed to the drag strip on the suggestion of another owner and spent a night making passes with more agressive throttle and slip. From that night on the clutch shudder went away completely and all was good.

So if you've been babying it on break-in its very likely you've got a similar situation and will take more agressive driving for it to truly bed in the agressive Ceramic metalic pucks and friction surfaces. Also Comp makes two versions of the Stage 4- A sprung Hub and a Rigid Hub, whic one did you install?

Maybe some other Puck type owners can chime in too.

 

Not quite the same, but i'll back up what Ryan is saying here. My 350 was a little this way (albeit stock) when i got it, but i spent my days being *very* smooth with the clutch and slipping it more than most Americans i see driving MT, these days it's nice and smooth with no other changes.

 

Yeah, it was mostly easy driving for the first 400 miles, the car went back to ProEFI for some more tuning last week, I’ll probably be picking it up tomorrow and try to drive it a bit more aggressively…

Here’s the RJM clutch pedal as it sits now (I didn’t install it…), I’m thinking about increasing it to 80% when I get the car back, it looks a bit below that right now:

 

I just ordered one. I hope this will save my 2nd gear syncro. The weird thing is I only have issues when the car is hot (> 20 min driving). I just picked it up from the dealer but ofcourse the tech could not duplicate the issue.