made quite a bit of progress tonight

power steering bracket came in finally


since my ls6 is drive by wire and i am converting to cable driven i had too tap the intake manifold where the ls1 throttle cable bracket would be


got all of the fuel lines ran and tightened down and done correctly

did a little test fit for the heater core lines and finally figured out the way i want to set up the system where it attatched to the oem core


decided to mount up the coil packs because i am not changing their wiring set up


got the slave cylinder and bleeder set up


when i went with the alper ps bracket i had to extend the lines a little bit to get them to run thrm to be a tad bit hidden


SIKKKKKYYYY


wired in the tps connect becasue of the conversion


more to come tomarro hopefullly

enjoy

 

got a ton done the past week but havent hadn time to make any sort of update. but finally ill have a minute to sit down and show my progress.

started off the week by removing all the unnessesary wires from the ls6 harness

removed 27 wires total


i decided the way that chevy runs there injector power wires was a bad choice so i changed it from each individual injector getting a 12v power wire to a parallel series wire with each injector spliced in


as far as the wiring for the ls6 harness it is finsihed other than one connector for the reverse lamp switch which i am waiting on the connector as we speak.

we are working on a way to utilize the stock nissan DLC connector and put it on a switch to change from 350z-ls6 depending on which ecu you are wanting to scan.

also we are working on the bugs on the immobilizer for the ls6 so it will crank without the stock signal, we are going to attempt to use the nissan signal.

finally all my fittings for the heater core hoses came in and i was able to build those


mounted them up to the fire wall


this is a poor picture but there is my clearance for the heater core lines


sikky 1 7/8 long tube header clearance and you can see how the coolant is ran to and from the water pump assembly


radiator set up
the speed and performance water neck worked out well but im going to need to get creative on the hoses that run to and from the radiator from the water pump assembly. if anyone has any suggerstions please let me know!


more will be finsihed monday and should be up and running shortly

questions comments and suggestions are all welcome!

enjoy!

 

also the power steering line that came from sikky does not fit my pump for whatever reason any ideas? ill be calling monday to get it fixed or attempt to

 

congratulations!! good job!!!

 

crazy build

 

Mine didn't fit either, it's because their kit is solely based around a GTO LS2, that's it. Any other varient may have fittment issues with accessories, transmissons, etc.

 

I figured out how to make it work if you use the oem pressure line there are 2 fittings one a fitting attatched to the line and one that goes from the line to the pump if you take that and fit it with the Sikky line it seems to work ill have to check for leaks soon

Also i caught the car on fire because i have a malfunctioning injector driver so time for a new ecm

 

ok got lots done the past couple weeks

got all the wiring from the nissan ecu removed that will not be needed

figured out a bunch of power steering stuff

and got her to run on fuel for about 3-4 seconds

but heres the pics:

if you want to run the remote set up like mine you need the ls6 pressure line fitting so that the sikky pressure line will fit



mounted up the power steering cooler roughly where i want it



ran the lines up through where the stock vq intake runs





going to run a 1" aluminum tube to connect the upper and lower radiator hoses



removed almost all the nissan harness except for a few minors things
this

to this


sent the ecm to speed inc in chicago to get the base tune for my cam
remove the maf
remove the VATS
remove the Rear O2 sensors
and a bunch of stuff i cant remember

i cant figure out how to upload the video or i would

seems like it has an extended crank hoping that is because of the VATS but we will find out soon.

enjoy!

 

Sorry for the lack of updates

I got the ecm back
But i dont have the car.

Its out getting exhaust made and the intake pipe made.
He is also getting the correct angle and length for the throttle cable.

But i should have ot back Wednesday and start back to work.on Thursday.

As of now literally have to hook up the coolant lines and fire her up and begin work on figuring.out how to make the oem gauges work

 

Nice can't wait for that...

 

Im not sire what all its going to take to make the gauges work but shouldn't be too terrible

 

To make the gauges work you will need to pass everything through the stock ECU in a deadend state and you still will not get the right signal for the tach this is why we use a aftermarket cluster with our swap harnesses.

Good luck with the rest of the sikky kit im swapping to the fueled racing due to to many issues with the shifter even the new one and the oil pan/ dip stick popping up due to crank case pressure.

If you need any advice or help with wiring, power steering or fittings then for sure let me know.

 

Thanks fir the help ! I have pics for a update but haven't has time to upload ...
What after market tach do you guys recommend

 

^speedhut. thats what me and all the other guys seem to run. cass got his stock tach to work, but im unsure how.

 

He got his to run because he is sending the CAN signals from the haltech unit to the stock ECU.

You can use the stock LS1 throttle cable with a 240 pedal its what i did.

You shouldnt need to send the GM ECU any signals for a immobilizer if you are removing the VATS. Thats the reason you were only able to get the car to run for 3 seconds (because the VATS had not been removed yet)

Also if you need intake advice i can post some of my intake pics its like a cold air and runs right behind the bumper on the drivers side. Im using a full 4 inch with 04 zo6 MAF but switching to the haltech 2000.

You also shouldnt need any info off of the stock ecu making a switch for it might be a waste of time but all of your information/tuning would be done through the GM ECU.

If you want a power steering kit that is AN and looks like the rest of your stuff also check out this kit.

 

^ Cass used the VIPEC not the HALTECH.

 

I utilized the stock z pedal with a lokar cable

I removed the vats havent been able.to start the car since then

Already have the ps kit from sikky ...used the gm pump with the Nissan reservoir and ps cooler

I am using a 4" intake but goin g to run straight map

 

This happened with Vas's car as well turned out they didnt remove the vats or anything at all. See if you can hook a OBD2 scan tool to it and see if it connects. Then of course start the normal checking the coils for 12+ and the injectors for 12+ and check the fuses and all

 

speed inc did mine im sure they did fine i sent it off especially for that

 

Yea Vas did too you never know what you are geting with a mail in tune. Just make sure you are getting 12+ to coils, inj, and the ECU and fuel pump and everything should be fine.