Graffkid732: Voltex Kit, Stroked 3.4L GT47-88 2jz Getrag 6 Speed 350z build
#43
im also REALLY curious of how the v160 is going to fit in there...the more i look at it, i think you are going to have to notch the firewall some...
BTW, shoot me a PM with your number, i got some cell phone pics of the mounts i can send you...it might be a few days till i get good pics for putting online
BTW, shoot me a PM with your number, i got some cell phone pics of the mounts i can send you...it might be a few days till i get good pics for putting online
Ok great thanks, I'll send you a pm now.
I definitely will look into this more, thanks. Also didn't answer your question about wiring.
I have a friend who makes and has made Mil spec harnesses. He has made them before for other 2jz swaps, so him and I will be making this one. Using new oem connectors/pins/seals with mil spec wire/shrink tubing/etc.
#49
On another note, bought the Motor Mount "brackets" powder coated Black from NSN Garage / Travismaser(my350z username). Have pics when those come in. From there, will just be making a trans mount which should be a hell of a lot easier than engine mounts and measure for a custom drive shaft.
Getting ready to pick up ACL Bearings, just confirming size before I do so.
This weekend I think I am going to start the body work needed. Was going to leave that up to the body shop when car goes in for painting, but I definitely want to be as involved as I can. Plus I have 2 years of school doing body work and worked in a shop for a year. Pretty capable of fixing the 2 maybe 3 dings, cut and clean the rear fenders, and fill in some of the holes from the shaving/removing.
Will keep this thread as updated as I can. Will post some pictures of how the car is sitting as of now both interior and exterior.
#51
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I came here as soon as I saw somone was putting a real engine, with a real turbo in a Z.
Baddest build on here imho.
Nice choice. If I wasn't in Cali, I would have gone 2j for sure.
EDIT:
Have you considered getting that crank knife edged? IMO might as well if you can afford it. Will help with windage and revving out.
Can't wait to see this thing moving...
My vote is go pro-efi, or motec.
Baddest build on here imho.
Nice choice. If I wasn't in Cali, I would have gone 2j for sure.
EDIT:
Have you considered getting that crank knife edged? IMO might as well if you can afford it. Will help with windage and revving out.
Can't wait to see this thing moving...
My vote is go pro-efi, or motec.
Last edited by Resmarted; 06-17-2012 at 04:31 AM.
#52
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nice! let me know how that haltech combo works out along with how you mount the tranny. are you also looking into finding a lower rear diff gear? the mk4 has a 3.27 final compared to the G/Z's 3.54-ish final.
#53
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I came here as soon as I saw somone was putting a real engine, with a real turbo in a Z.
Baddest build on here imho.
Nice choice. If I wasn't in Cali, I would have gone 2j for sure.
EDIT:
Have you considered getting that crank knife edged? IMO might as well if you can afford it. Will help with windage and revving out.
Can't wait to see this thing moving...
My vote is go pro-efi, or motec.
Baddest build on here imho.
Nice choice. If I wasn't in Cali, I would have gone 2j for sure.
EDIT:
Have you considered getting that crank knife edged? IMO might as well if you can afford it. Will help with windage and revving out.
Can't wait to see this thing moving...
My vote is go pro-efi, or motec.
what you are saying is true, cali makes it tougher but you can legalilze it there. have to go to smog only station (aka referee station) also grab smog stickers from dealership as at large dealerships they prefer to place it on your hood after making sure the engine code matches. Meanwhile you will run around with temporary DMV paper (no tags), so if you are pulled over you must show to the cop, I've done several swaps in Cali while I lived there up until about a year and half ago
#54
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what you are saying is true, cali makes it tougher but you can legalilze it there. have to go to smog only station (aka referee station) also grab smog stickers from dealership as at large dealerships they prefer to place it on your hood after making sure the engine code matches. Meanwhile you will run around with temporary DMV paper (no tags), so if you are pulled over you must show to the cop, I've done several swaps in Cali while I lived there up until about a year and half ago
Can't do it through alternative fuels (you can but lets be honest, that won't happen until pigs fly):
"Under current California regulations, conversion of emission-controlled vehicles with retrofit systems to operate on alternative fuels, such as propane and natural gas, in lieu of the original gasoline or diesel fuel is only allowed if the retrofit systems have been evaluated and certified by the Air Resources Board. The certification must be obtained by the manufacturer of the retrofit system and is issued by the Air Resources Board once the manufacturer demonstrates compliance with the emission, warranty, and durability requirements"
OR you can have a legal engine swap if the engine has all it's emissions control devices, the engine is from the same manufacturer, of a newer year, and of the same weight class. So basically you could only really do a vq37 into a 350z. Maybe a vr38 but I'm highly doubtful.
I'm going big single built vq35, so if you actually were successful in getting something legalized it would be great to hear about it (probably in pm), but honestly bro in my experience it's not possible. It's just myth.
#55
Thanks man, appreciate the advice as well
Thanks man. The thought is there, but waiting to sit down the builder and see what they recommend before any machining is final.
Both are great, Motec being the top choice in my opinion, but they are MONEY. Reason for the Haltech would be to run the stock Tach. If it will be a lot of trouble and money, I would be better off picking up a Motec and do an aftermarket Tach setup. Which I have been talking about with my wire guy about the aftermarket setup, and we are pretty confident to get it to work properly and be clean in a factory location.
Thanks.
Definitely will, as I said to Resmarted's quote, if I can get the Haltech to work properly with the 2jz and the 350z cluster, then I will be doing that. Otherwise another ECU will be there as well as an aftermarket Tach setup will be tried out. We are both confident that 1 of the 2 will work.
Honestly, haven't thought that far yet. Right now I am focused on getting the engine built and the trans mount made as well as measurements for the Drive shaft. Trying to do one thing at a time so nothing gets over looked/skipped. Just like the quick spool valve, I will definitely look into this more and see what I can come up with. Appreciate the info.
I came here as soon as I saw somone was putting a real engine, with a real turbo in a Z.
Baddest build on here imho.
Nice choice. If I wasn't in Cali, I would have gone 2j for sure.
EDIT:
Have you considered getting that crank knife edged? IMO might as well if you can afford it. Will help with windage and revving out.
Can't wait to see this thing moving...
My vote is go pro-efi, or motec.
Baddest build on here imho.
Nice choice. If I wasn't in Cali, I would have gone 2j for sure.
EDIT:
Have you considered getting that crank knife edged? IMO might as well if you can afford it. Will help with windage and revving out.
Can't wait to see this thing moving...
My vote is go pro-efi, or motec.
Both are great, Motec being the top choice in my opinion, but they are MONEY. Reason for the Haltech would be to run the stock Tach. If it will be a lot of trouble and money, I would be better off picking up a Motec and do an aftermarket Tach setup. Which I have been talking about with my wire guy about the aftermarket setup, and we are pretty confident to get it to work properly and be clean in a factory location.
Definitely will, as I said to Resmarted's quote, if I can get the Haltech to work properly with the 2jz and the 350z cluster, then I will be doing that. Otherwise another ECU will be there as well as an aftermarket Tach setup will be tried out. We are both confident that 1 of the 2 will work.
Honestly, haven't thought that far yet. Right now I am focused on getting the engine built and the trans mount made as well as measurements for the Drive shaft. Trying to do one thing at a time so nothing gets over looked/skipped. Just like the quick spool valve, I will definitely look into this more and see what I can come up with. Appreciate the info.
#56
Registered User
You can get the haltech to put out all of the stock signals for the cluster but you will need to have the ECU relfashed to a deadend state to be a pass through for the CAN signals. For the money you will spend on reflashing and individual gauges you can get a racepack LCD cluster that will plug into the haltech ECU. You shouldnt have any problems running the 2jz on the haltech we have made harnesses for 2jz's that use honda AEM EMS's so i know stranger setups have been done.
#57
You can get the haltech to put out all of the stock signals for the cluster but you will need to have the ECU relfashed to a deadend state to be a pass through for the CAN signals. For the money you will spend on reflashing and individual gauges you can get a racepack LCD cluster that will plug into the haltech ECU. You shouldnt have any problems running the 2jz on the haltech we have made harnesses for 2jz's that use honda AEM EMS's so i know stranger setups have been done.
Well my factory ecu all ready has an Uprev license on it, so as long as it can be done with Uprev I am set there(which I imagine is what they use) I am trying to keep it as factory looking as possible which is why the racepak is my last option.
Quoted from an email between myself and Hal@Dynosty
"One immediate option for the 2JZ swap would be putting a VQ-pattern trigger on the 2JZ. This would allow you to run a Pro Plugin 350Z unit which drives the factory gauges and replaces the stock computer entirely. "
I plan to work and talk more with Hal to see what we can come up with.
#58
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Well my factory ecu all ready has an Uprev license on it, so as long as it can be done with Uprev I am set there(which I imagine is what they use) I am trying to keep it as factory looking as possible which is why the racepak is my last option.
Quoted from an email between myself and Hal@Dynosty
"One immediate option for the 2JZ swap would be putting a VQ-pattern trigger on the 2JZ. This would allow you to run a Pro Plugin 350Z unit which drives the factory gauges and replaces the stock computer entirely. "
I plan to work and talk more with Hal to see what we can come up with.
Quoted from an email between myself and Hal@Dynosty
"One immediate option for the 2JZ swap would be putting a VQ-pattern trigger on the 2JZ. This would allow you to run a Pro Plugin 350Z unit which drives the factory gauges and replaces the stock computer entirely. "
I plan to work and talk more with Hal to see what we can come up with.
IMHO the biggest reason for pro efi or motec are the tuners for 2jzs, BUT hal is an amazing tuner and has/had a pretty nasty 2j car. Don't know if you are looking at getting a dynosty tune but yeah.
If you do decide to do a knife edge, also consider a dry sump. My buddy was able to find a used 6 stage for 600 bucks off a freshly built nascar motor... a great deal IMHO.
#60
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If you are even considering working with Dynosty, I give them my full recommendation. Not a single complaint, they're a great shop.
IMHO the biggest reason for pro efi or motec are the tuners for 2jzs, BUT hal is an amazing tuner and has/had a pretty nasty 2j car. Don't know if you are looking at getting a dynosty tune but yeah.
.
IMHO the biggest reason for pro efi or motec are the tuners for 2jzs, BUT hal is an amazing tuner and has/had a pretty nasty 2j car. Don't know if you are looking at getting a dynosty tune but yeah.
.
Mike $HIT looks ridiculous.....
Last edited by 350zion; 06-22-2012 at 03:47 PM.