Hello,

Recently installed an OS Giken 1.5 LSD in my 2006 350Z, base model 6mt.

I knew I would either need new stub axles out of a VLSD or to machine my existing ones and use the different C-clip. I opted to have them machined.
(my friend is a large bus mechanic so he had all the tools).

He did not machine one of them far enough down because it went half way in and got stuck. We had to press it out using a LARGE hydraulic press
after trying absolutely everything . Once it came out, we could see it got hung up on the c clip. So he machined them down farther to the spec listed
in another thread on this site and now the drivers side went in no problem.

I put it all back together because I needed to drive the car and then ordered a new c-clip. The stub axle that has the clip on it has not moved, perfect.
The stub axle without the clip is sliding in and out (ever so slightly) and causing problems with the ABS sensor (which I expected it would).

Does anyone have any insight as to why this stub axle, even without c clip installed will not fit inside the carrier all the way? Is it possible that using
(2) tapered end stub axles won't work because they are both a bit too long or something? The stub axle that will not fit is not the one that had to
be pressed out and machined further.

When I do the break in oil change in about a week I will be attempting to put the new C-clip on and install it correctly but I am worried it won't go
in far enough to "click".

Any thoughts or help is appreciated

 

I dont get it, you put it all together and it sounds like all you need is a circlip, then in the next breath you say it wont fit??

You should have sorted all this on your bench before putting it all back together...

 

As long as you can visually verify they are both inserted the same amount (using the good side as reference), then all it needs it a c-clip. Unless you are using the wrong stub axles.

 

That's the thing. They aren't inserted the same amount. The good side is ... well good. Lines up perfect with ABS sensor. The "bad side" which currently does not have a c-clip comes out like 1/4 to 1/2 inch and does not line up perfectly with the ABS sensor.

I am not technically using the "correct" stub axles. I am using the tapered end ones, which are both equal length, and I've modified them to fit the proper c-clips. I know terrasmak has a good write up about this and another member has also done the same.

Trust me, I wish I could have left it all on the bench and figured it out but this is currently my only car and I need to drive to work.

 

What I meant was you should have ensured it fit properly on the bench and answered all these questions before you put her together, which you could have done.

I know you can shave down a stub axle...but does it come out a bit when installed or just wont go in all the way period? If the latter then obviously you either didn't take the axle down enough or are using the wrong part, mixed up the axles, getting hung up on something, etc - AND the diff never should have come together in the first place.

Don't forget you can take measurements with the one axle in and the other out to determine if its too long and if the c clip grooves line up (a PIA now because you have the diff back on the car). Worst case you can disassemble the diff and just line up the side gears and verify if the groove is in the correct spot for the clip, but that shouldnt be necessary.

 

There is no reason it should not slide in all the way, I am running two modified tapered stubs

 

While I appreciate your input, once again I will say that this is my only car at the moment and I didn't have the time to leave it on the bench and figure it out. I got to a point that was "good enough" to slip back in the car and had to run with it because I had to go to work in the morning. Yes, in a perfect world I would have kept it out of the car until I could get everything to fit perfectly.

I know that both of my modified tapered axle stubs are exact same length, c clip grooves are in same spot, c clip grooves have been machined to exact same depth. The problem is that the passenger side stub didn't go in 100% of the way to begin with but it was dam close. It was out maybe 1/8inch, so minute that the ABS sensor worked fine for the first 150miles I drove it. Now it has come out maybe less than 1/8inch more and ABS sensor won't read.

Terrasmak, thanks for your comment. That eliminates that as a possibility.

I'm starting to think that it is either
a) Something is inside the diff and the stub axle is getting caught on it
b) The stub axle was damaged during machining process and won't fit for one reason or another.

 

Sweet, good luck let us know how it goes.

 

Late update.

Installed the c clip on the stub axle and put it back in. Still doesn't look perfectly in line with the ABS sensor/speed sensor. But its been weeks now and lots of driving and I've had no problems. So I'm assuming it went in far enough to "click" and I am just being over paranoid about the small small misalignment.

Also flushed diff fluid at the same time after approx 500miles of city driving. Was pretty dirty with lots of bits on the drain plug magnet. Replaced with fresh 75w-140 Lucas Oil synthetic diff lube. Still quiet and very reasonable on the street.

 

Just an update on this thread. OSGiken recommends using both stub axles from the Open Diff (base) on all of their LSDs for the 350z. Part # 38220-AR000. I got this right from OSGiken USA.