Hi guys,..

I've been doing some research here and elsewhere and need some opinions/advice.. pricing and such.

The clutch is starting to slip on my 350.. primarily noticeable if I'm going full throttle and as I shift at higher RPM's. After the shift the RPM's will rev up then fall back down after a second or so. I've been through a few clutches in other cars (always owned manuals in my 17 years of driving) so am fairly certain it's time.

I have modded the car.. but fairly lightly.. NA only.. Tune, Catback dual, Berk HFC's,.. Uprev Tune,.. Intakes.. etc.. Nothing major,.. and this is about as much as I'm going to do for HP increases.

Basically I'm trying to figure out the best price I can do for a new clutch and flywheel (as that seems to be the way to go when doing this)..

But from my reading it seems that lighter flywheel (non dual mass) will result in chatter at low rpms, and such.

I'd prefer not to increase the chatter if possible. I don't take this car to the track/drag strip .. just do some spirited driving sometimes.. and otherwise it's my Daily driver.

I also would like the work to be backed up to some degree.

So I've thought about letting the dealership do it,.. but I know how they can be with pricing.

From what I've read I'm thinking maybe an Aftermarket clutch combined with a Nismo flywheel would be a good mix to not be noisey but save some money?

So here are my questions if anyone is so kind as to answer them (I understand if you've heard this a million times and just don't want to answer again.)
Oh,.. and given the Slave cylinder requires the tranny to be dropped,.. and it's relatively inexpensive. Would it be wise to go ahead and get it replaced with the clutch replacement?

I sincerely appreciate your time, and any and all advice. I will continue to search around for more information on this.

 

1) Stay with OEM, sounds like you dont need an aftermarket flywheel

2) Try a JWT, ive been running one for a long time with no issues. You could also just get an OEM replacement from any auto house, they are all usually made by a pool of a few manufacturers (ex ive seen beck/arnley branded clutches that are stamped by Exedy on the clutch disc and sprung hub)

3) Lol as you said bring lube if you want dealership work, but anywhere you go should warranty their install. You'll know pretty quickly if anything major related to the install went awry...not saying there arent details that may cause problems down the road (ex if they dont lube the proper spots it may squeak later on), but this should be a non-issue for any reputable shop.

4) Lol im gonna let you do your own shopping for parts, but labor for clutch replacement is pretty cheap on these things relatively speaking...looking at between 400-500 in labor (4-5 shop hours) as a rough estimate.

5) Yes absolutely replace master and slave cylinders, keep in mind this will add to the labor. I recommend new OEM Nissan, unless you have a concentric CSC, for that get the HD one.

 

I don't notice much chatter on my JWT clutch flywheel package and and I would go with the JWT package if I had it all over again.

I would stay away from the dealership. Back in the day I had AAMCO do mine because they were nation-wide and I was traveling for work. I understand with what your saying about a warranty but if the work is done correctly you wont need a warranty. I doubt any shop will warranty aftermarket parts but you should be able to have them warranty their work.

Cost, back in 2008 I spent $700 on the clutch/flywheel/parts and $700 on labor and misc parts.

Dont forget the throwout bearing as well.

 

Wat? Mine has always been noisy...not that i mind bc i think it sounds awesome

 

OEM is fine with me,.. I don't mind going after market with any of it.. just as I said it seems aftermarket tends to introduce more noise. The OEM clutches on our Z's are already noisy out of the gate by design.. so if I can avoid amplifying that , it would be nice.

Ok so basically go do my hunting for a JWT Clutch, and an OEM flywheel? (This is a 2008 350Z.. so I do believe it has the CSC) - An OEM Slave cylinder and a throw out bearing. That should take of all the parts any mechanic would need correct?

Yeah.. I know dealerships have high hourly rates .. but I would feel comfortable with Nissan doing clutch / dropping tranny work on a vehicle they've done many times before. Though I won't pay double labor for it.

I know a Private Master Mechanic who has a little shop attached to a gas station who would probably do it.. but he isn't exactly fast.

Any "chains" you would recommend calling for quotes? I know a mechanic (not friends.. just met him for an issue) at a local Tire engineers (Express Oil change) and he fixed an alignment issue that firestone was incompetent on.. then didn't charge me for it.

His rate he says is $70 for OEM/factory parts.. and $90 an hour for "Performance parts".

And I do realize if a clutch is done right it's going to be fine for the life of the clutch.. I'm not looking for warranty on any wear and tear.. Just shops that if something isn't done right will happily and quickly drop the tranny and re-do the work without any hassle. You never know.

Ok so that's $100 an hour at 5 hours -- So $500 is a safe high estimate for installation of it all?

Clutch packages seem to run like $700 or so with flywheel and throwout bearing IIRC.. I'll have to start shopping. So $1200 seems about right for everything?

I'll definitely do the Slave.. and the Master cylinder is something that can be done without dropping the tranny and such at a later time .. So would it be reasonable to just swap the slave with the clutch / flywheel /throwout replacement .. and do Master cylinder only if it gives problems/issues at a later date?

Appreciate the help guys.

 

Sounds like you have it all under control.

-You may not and probably will not need a flywheel, but that determination will be made once the trans is removed and you can get a visual on the part. From the way you describe it failing it sounds like its going to need a resurface at the very least. The shop will make this determination, key is to find an honest shop.

-I just recommend staying away from single mass, because as you say even the OEM dual mass fly doesnt mask all the transmission chatter. Anything single mass will be noisy, how noisy just depends on the specific clutch combo, state of your transmission, fluid, etc. When I first put in the JWT fly there really wasnt the "huge" improvement in free revving or even a difference in standing starts I was expecting...the main improvement was in the precision of shifting/rev-match/heel toe. I immediately thought to myself...damn should have gone Tilton...LOL!

-I run an external slave so have no first hand experience, but the consensus seems to be definitely get the Wilwood **Zspeed..thx travlee**HD CSC. Because of the inherent nature of a concentric slave, you're going to have to adopt a more frequent bleed schedule...this is a preventative thing so don't slip on this one.

 

Oh and yes $500 is a good estimate for labor, if they are a competent, honest shop.

The only time I had a shop do work on the Z is when they replaced my trans under warranty...I left my car, had a leisurely working lunch, came back and it was done. Mind you this was a "performance" subdivision of a Nissan dealership, and the manager was/is a true Nissan enthusiast. This obviously permeated into the techs he hired.

 

if you go after market clutch, i would replace the master and slave... hell i would replace anyway since you are already in there. mine went out and i replaced with oem, it went out again 7 months later... put in the zspeed heavy duty one and never looked back. the wilwood master that comes with the kit is a little bigger than the oem..... you are already going to have the system apart, my thoughts is do it all in one swoop

 

You are going to have to replace the master and slave, I went through ZSpeed, great service.I went with South Bend (Stg2 Daily) clutch and 19 lbs flywheel and it is very close if not more quiet than stock.

I would NOT reuse the factory SMF, flywheel should be resufaced whenever you replace a clutch and 99% of shops will not know how to resurface a SMF flywheel.

The Z is NOTORIOUS for trans noise, live with it, the pros outweigh the cons.New OEM flywheel is around $900-1000.

 

Thanks..

So -- Seems pretty clear -- Go with OEM Flywheel. I don't even want to attempt trying to find a shop to resurface the flywheel. A new OEM one is fine. The noise that is present now.. is fine. Yes they are noisy.. but that's fine!

Now.. I do have a considerable more horsepower.. basically I have all the horsepower you can do with bolt ons on a VQ35HR (08 350Z) -- Plus I have a Tune done (Uprev)..

Is this 25 more horsepower or 40 more? .. Who knows.. don't really care. I'm going to assume the little bit of horsepower I spent way too much money adding naturally the stock flywheel and clutch can handle just fine.

So.. I just basically need your recommendation on What aftermarket Clutch to mate with a new OEM flywheel?

I just want something that will last.. No need to be impossible to push down or a leg workout.. be nice if it engaged a little better and not all the way at the top of the pedal travel (you know how stock 1st gear engagements are).. but I can deal either way.

Throw out bearings.. I assume that kind of thing comes with a clutch "kit".. am I wrong?

And.. lastly -- You guys are saying I need to not only do the Slave cylinder which I was going to do.. but my master cylinder? I get these are parts that are prone to failure on these cars.. mine aren't failing.. 34k miles so far -- (Yeah,.. I'm a bit pissed at a slipping clutch myself.. I bought it in December of 13) Is what it is..

All my other manuals I've only went through one clutch at 140k in one car.. all the others I never had to replace the clutch (point is I don't think I'm hard on them).

So... looks like I can get all of this done, labor, slave/master cyl, oem flywheel, aftermarket clutch, throwout bearing (labor) --- for under 2 grand.. Think so?

One more thing..

This clutch does slip a bit odd. I can tell it slips more in the higher RPMS than first gear starting off regularly.. for example.

If I go from 2nd to 6k RPM, shift to 3rd.. (It will go vrrrrooommmm (revs up.. for a second.. then they fall back down to where they should be).. same for 3rd to fourth and so on.

If I shift at like 2-3k RPM normal, easy.. It doesn't Slip and rev up like that.

Seem pretty typical? I know with my 300ZX.. when the clutch went out (it was toast) -- I could throw it in 5th gear (at a stop/stand still) and it would rev like in neutral.

This isn't like that.. but I'm also babying it because it's my daily driver and I can't afford it to be undriveable right now.

I do have a "Z shop" here.. but I called and he charged $350 an hour.. I had to say no thanks. That's crazy.

I'm in B'ham, AL btw.. if anyone knows any good shops ..

Your wisdom has and is SO helpful and appreciated.

Thank you!

 

Ok I've been shopping -- Not so easy.

OEM Flywheels are not super easy to find.

Are there any Decent clutch kits with OEM 2007-2008 350Z Flywheels included in them?

Looks like the dealership has them for $860.. shipping is probably a few hundred.. so $1000ish for OEM Flywheel.

I have no idea what Clutch to get? (Again, I'm surprised some company doesn't bundle the OEM flywheel,.. but if not,.. what is a good stock replacement,.. it can be a little stronger just not too much where it's noticeably more difficult to press/engage the pedal.)

Some come with throwout, some not? Why?

Master Cylinder = $100+

Slave Cylinder = $100

I'm not really seeing how this is going to be less than $2 grand really..

Everyone says,.. oh save your money,.. get a lightweight flywheel (which are cheap).. but we all know the stock flywheel chatters.. the lightweight is going to sound terrible, no?

Then I read some say you can use the Flywheel you have.. some say you have to get it resurfaced,.. some say even resurfacing isn't good because of the way the machinists have to do it.. etc etc.

Someone can feel free to PM me if you'd like.. I'm not sure how buying the parts myself is going to really save money based on what I'm seeing .

Just a bit overwhelmed with differing info, and prices,.. just want a setup as quiet as the chattering stock setup.. and I want it to last.. I'm a little miffed I'm having to do this at 34k miles tbh, when I've been gentle on the car.

But not your fault.. -- Thanks for any names, help, putting this together -- I don't care to have a lightweight flywheel.. Quiet > Lightweight flywheel to me by far.

Merci, gracious,..