js493

okay, so ultimately, like a good percentage of this group, i would like to go FI said and done. but i have a few questions regarding the reliability of it all.

first question: z1 motorsports sells a DE short block machined to fit an HR head gasket to prevent flash boiling. has anyone done this without purchasing a short block? can i buy a HR head gasket and tell the machinist "hey, make this fit, and it better not leak" or is that a retarded request? if there is more entailed in this and it isn't possible, what have you guys done with a 03/04 DE to prevent flash boiling?

second question: I'm looking at the stage 2 or 3 vq35de engine rebuild kit offered by z1 performance, I've also been meaning to check out what concept z has to offer parts wise but basically this is what the kit has:
Wiseco Pistons
Piston Ring set
Wrist pins
Eagle Rods with caps or optional Super A Carrillo Rods
Nissan OEM Gasket kit (Optional Cometic Head Gaskets)
ACL Engine Bearings (Rods, Mains, Thrust)
ARP Head And Main Stud Kits (L19 Head Studs Optional)
Z1 Viton Valve Seals

a sales guy claimed (which he also told me the akebono big brake kit was 6 piston in the rear and 4 up front, which its 4 up front and 2 in the rear, so i question his input) that they have put 800 horse to this bottom end, can anyone here say they have made similar power, with a similar build? have they sleeved the block? is aluminum, I've heard of guys breaking **** on LS1s not because the part itself failed, because the block actually twisted ever so slightly under load. so is the vq35de aluminum block actually that resilient?

does anyone see a problem with the parts i have chosen with bad experiences? i look to build the head and cam it as well, however i am considering purchasing a built Z1 head so then i know all the valves seal proper and everything has been machined by someone who has experience with that engine. but for right now i am mostly concerned with the bottom end, the block, and the flash boiling issue.

if anyone who is FI wanted to leave a parts list that they used and had good experience with, that would also be awesome!

thanks for anyone who had the time to read that

EDIT: this is just for the build for FI, not for actually turboing or tuning, I'm basically asking how to build the engine RELIABLY for that, so if you comment that i missed an ECU, turbos, etc, thats not what I'm asking. again, thanks.


jake

Thomas.

some info on fitting hr-style gasket
http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wol...head_bolts.pdf

js493

thanks man! ill have to show the machine shop this.

rcdash

iTrader: (18)

1. Use HKS headgasket and L19. Proven combination. Use Evans coolant to prevent flash boiling.

2. Go with Carillo rods, insist on L19.

The above works for me at 800 whp+, 2 years so far and running fine (E85 and 93 octane curves below)... (Dynosty built block with similar parts, CP instead of Wiseco but not sleeved)




EDIT: This thread needs to be in the FI forum? Also check for a thread started by Zivman about a swirlpot. If you don't use Evans, I would recommend that. I don't have personal experience but it makes sense and has worked well for a few folks by report.

js493

rcdash,

well crap, is there a way to move a thread? i put it here mainly because i thought its engine build related, not actually FI yet, but i guess it is FI prep technically. i will see if i can find that thread.

but thanks a lot! nice to see that kind of power!! what diff, drive shaft and axles are you running? is the tranny built? and I've also never seen an E85 tuned z thats pretty sick! all completely off topic questions, but it happens...

have you driven it fairly hard? like you can run a few laps on the track with it?

thanks

jake

rcdash

iTrader: (18)

You can ask a moderator to move the thread. Most of the stuff is in my build thread but it is loaded with lots of "noise" too. So quick answers are:

I have a 2004 G35, used to be 5AT, now 6MT.
Diff = quaife, 3.3 gears
axles = DSS pro axles
driveshaft = carbon fiber, forget the manufacturer
transmission is a standard CD009 with RPS twin carbon clutch with billet steel flywheel, RJM clutch pedal

E85 flex fuel is pretty common for those of us running a Haltech plug in (not piggyback). It let's you put in whatever % of e85 vs 93 octane and adjusts the tune on the fly. Very slick.

I've driven it at ZdayZ and in the mountains of NC, but not on a track. Airfield event (wannagofast.com), got it to 163 mph I think on the 1/2 mile standing start.

Traction is the limiting factor (running street tires, 305/30/19 RE11 most of the time).

dikspiel

iTrader: (70)

rcdash is the most helpful person on this forum

taywan

iTrader: (53)

Cux just mentioned that Evans , new to me. I will run that when I bleed the coolant after my next pull.

How do you guys rate cosworth hgs ? I'm running those and l19s of course.

dikspiel

iTrader: (70)

taywan im running the same...make sure you buy the evan's prep fluid in addition to the colant

R6n350GT

iTrader: (1)

if your happy with 650-750 and less than
Wiseco Pistons and Eagle rods are fine.

If you above 500 then you may need
ATI Super dampener of fluidpr
Dynosty Billet Girdle
Dynosty HR Headgasket is as good as the HKS/Cosworth but alot cheaper


My engine was built for the 2nd time before i found out about the billet girdle so i dont have one

I also got a comtec gasket which is fine but now i know dynosty have one id get that.

I brought wiesco and eagle rods but now i wish i got CP/Carrilo then i wouldnt have to worry about maxing out my 6466

But soon as you pass that 450hp mark the costs go up alot. If you want E85 more so. There is a massive cost to go from 450 to 600+ reliable

cincysilvias14

didnt know 800 was possible on these motors without sleeves