I have an 05 Base that was ordered in Sept of 04 and arrived Jan 05. Can't find CD # on tranny but it doesn't look like it effects clutch choice anyway. I just wanted to find it. Where? Driver side middle of case is stamped "CD 0 #1"
I have 255,000 miles and the TO bearing has been moaning for a couple of years. It is time to replace everything. I will want to do flywheel and clutch in one job then after it is broken in, evaluate if I need new master and slave and rubber trans mount, etc. as I am sure that is probably needed too. Everything drives 99% perfect right now so I want to keep my issues isolated. Don't want to fight master/slave during a clutch install even if I separate them by a week or two. It "should" work out fine.

1) I WANT to stay DMF/stock. Up until last week always thought I would get Nissan parts but have found out OEM brands and it is so much cheaper to buy the LUK DMF067. This is the OEM part and only DMF I find. Exact part for less than half the cost. Is this correct?

2) until I found a post about the SAC Luk clutch I thought Exedy was the OEM clutch but it seems that it is not. I pulled the slave and boot last night and it looks like my 05 has the SAC.


Here is the only tip off I've ever seen on this:
(post #13 )
https://my350z.com/forum/maintenance...l#post10422920

So the place I'm planning on buying the flywheel has the Exedy NSK1000 that is very popular and a LUK RepSet 06079 that I cannot find any information on. Anybody know about this LUK clutch set? I just want to know if it is traditional fingers or a SAC design and what would anybody recommend between these two clutches to go with the LUK DMF?

3) last question is for future. I had no idea I had SAC. I've compared the 03 and 05 FSM and 03 does list clutch pedal to be checked in MA section then freeplay and other adjustments in the CL section that are not in the 05FSM.
Can anybody give me an idea of what to expect with changing to a non-adjustable clutch? I thought hydraulic system is self adjusting but it must only be in a range. How many miles do I go before I have to check all of the adjustments on the pedal to make sure things don't get too far out of adjustment over the following years?

I really need to get past a couple of these questions so I can buy something and get moving on this. Thanks for your time!

 

Don't know how I missed this. Maybe because I was researching on my phone every night.
The FSM clearly shows a traditional pressure plate for CD008 and the SAC adjusting clutch I have for CD009 in the CL section of the manual. So I have to assume I have a CD009 which is good news.
I also found a different picture of the LUK clutch kit on another vendor site finally. One shows it as a traditional plate and the new place shows it with the auto adjust outside plate. Both warn it's a stock photo and may not match but I think I have my answer.
LUK 06079 is most likely exact OEM with the SAC adjusters.

Now. Is that what I want?! The post I linked you all to said the SAC is a piece of crap but I never had any trouble with it. I saw last night that at least one of the fingers is bent in further than the rest. Also when I upgraded my rear end 3 years ago at 180,000 miles I did notice that when the car was warming up on jack stands in neutral both my rear tires were rotating very slowly with it in neutral. I looked that phenomenon up online and found it happened to other car owners in general and decided it was ok. Turns out it could be a pilot bearing sticking or in my case and the other posters claim the SAC device interfering. Nobody in that post seemed to agree 100% or at least the discussion went nowhere

Which clutch to get Exedy or LUK

 

I really thought I had this before I asked. I've followed what a lot of you have done off and on for the last year but didn't do enough research off of this website leaving me very uninformed about the OEM setup. I know most here convert away from stock.
I just learned about the SAC over the weekend and just finally found some good info on failures on BMWs and other design info. Some of it is highly debatable and I am proof that it can last awhile without failure but now I am seeing that I am being ridiculously stubborn.
On top of it all I need a special tool kit for the SAC system.

I don't trust myself or anyone else to setup this mess properly or trust the next SAC kit would serve me the same long life.

So, embarrassingly my new questions are
1)why doesn't any thing I can find on this site mention the tool needed in DIY section,?
2)where am I going to get to borrow one to remove my OEM clutch?
and is this kit an easy way to go-
Exedy NSK1000FW - a DMF elimination complete kit with regular flywheel - hopefully a HEAVY one to make me still happy with take off from a stop and hanging on to RPMs for rev match or heel toe downshift ease.

 

I have no idea what the tool you're talking about is.. never heard about the Z's having a self adjusting clutch.
Clutches are fairly straight forward to install no matter what if that's what you meant by easy, if you mean easy to drive, the same concept stands. Every car drives differently and once you get used to that clutch it's as if you never had anything else. Unless you're going with a flywheel half the weight, it will be the same as getting used to a new car.
I would go lightened flywheel, dual clutch, but that's just me. It's definitely, from all sources I've heard, advised to steer clear of DMF, but if you enjoy the heavy flywheel, JWT makes, I think, a 26lb one. I'm not sure about your car but my '03 had a 23lb DMF that I was able to move the separate pieces on after removal. I went 18lb fly and really dont notice much difference except the fact that rpms shoot up faster. The drop in revs is acually pretty similar despite 5 less pounds

 

Thanks for the response. I purchased the complete Exedy kit with flywheel. My OEM setup is self adjusting but you wouldn't have had one on an 03. My first picture is my car with self adjust plate. The tool needed is in the YouTube video. I don't think the plate is under enough pressure that I need it to release. It must be more needed to install another one.

I believed too that I would get used to a new setup instantly but was afraid I would not like it and wanted feedback.. When I put in 4.08 gears it only took one day of driving to readjust my rev points on downshifts. And that by comparison is just "it is what it is" and doesent matter unless you need to have certain shift points for the track. With a flywheel too light for my taste I was concerned for eeadjusting downshifting a little but mainly I don't want to give it any gas before the clutch starts to take up from a dead stop. It just a pet peeve of mine and would be something I would never get used to or accept. As an exaggerated example of what i didnt want is when someone gets something like a 8-9 lb. flywheel and you have to rev it up way past 1000 to start feathering so it doesnt stall is what it would feel like to me I guess.
I thought the DMF came in at 23 lb. like you said and the Exedy weighs 19.4 so hopefully it is like you describe yours - a little quicker to Rev and not any noticeable difference coming back down.
Also when I found out how quick a DMF or SAC COULD fail I was finally sold on staying away.

 

Yeah the stocks weighs 23 but I guess enough of a market prefers to just cruise for jwt to make one heavier. 19.4 should be a little closer to stock feeling than mine. I do have to rev it up to 1500 on a take off if I've been driving more than 30 minutes but it became second nature after a few hours. I can start rolling from a dead stop no problem with the 18lb I just can't let the pedal past the engagement point without shutters. My clutch is also rated for 425 ft/lbs though so that may have something to do with it. Good luck if you're doing the install yourself and either way good luck with liking the setup.

 

I've just read the OP and "255.000 miles". WHAT?! You did 255k miles on a Z? That is nice. What did you replace after 80k? Did you do a timing chain?

 

I've got to ask too. As my '05 GT roadster is about to hit 60,000 miles and JWT Stage 1 - it's third clutch - is starting to slip.

OEM DMF was fine....until it wasn't. As best I could figure out, the OEM failed because of problems with the slave cylinder not full returning. Replaced with JWT Stage 1 clutch and flywheel at about 22,000 miles. Replaced the master and slave cylinders and hoses and added stop tech high perf fluid for good measure.

The JWT Stage 1 was great....until it wasn't. Failed in about 20,000 miles. Started smelling burning clutch when starting on steep inclines from dead stop and things like that. This was pretty much true for OEM as well. Then, noticed RPM climb 500 - 1,000 when punching on freeway from crusing speed and then settling back as car gained speed. Clutch completely failed within days of my noticing that.

Specialty shop was great and replaced JWT Stage 1 with same at no cost to me - other than almost $400 to get it towed 70 miles to the shop. Owner identified problems with paint on JWT clutch that lead to loosening bolts and eventual failure.

Second JWT Stage 1 was great too. But, I still noticed burning clutch smell on hot days and sometimes after hard launch, slow speed hill climb, etc. It was inconsistent and I figured was me being paranoid and that any smell was residual from the complete combustion of first JWT having left clutch dust in the vent system or something.

Well yesterday, I notice the tach popping up 200 - 300 RPM when punching to about 75% throttle at 60 MPH then falling back. My heart sank. Another clutch. My wife is going to make me dump the car. ( I spent $10G getting bodywork done after an accident last year!).

I need to get this back to the shop pronto, while I can still drive it. The issue I'm having is, what clutch to go with now? This will be another $1,500 clutch replacement and I want something that might go 100,000 miles. I just can't trust a JWT Stage I anymore.

On top of that, the tranny has been shifting more stiffly than before and I can't make a 4th to 6th coming onto freeway without grinding a bit unless I double clutch.

BTW, the car is bone stock and I drive like a little old lady most of the time. I do downshift and use engine braking in everyday driving.

What clutch/flywheel combo might go 100,000 miles?

 

i went 84k on my stock clutch and the new owner has no problems with it. not to be a dick (well not too much) but either you are riding the clutch or something is not right causing constant pressure on it. maybe the push rod on the master isnt adjusted right or something

 

Maybe post a video of you shifting (and someone else holding the phone/camera) to clarify if you do it good or wrong. I'm not kidding and I'm not being sarcastic

 

I've got to ask too. As my '05 GT roadster is about to hit 60,000 miles and JWT Stage 1 - it's third clutch - is starting to slip.

OEM DMF was fine....until it wasn't. As best I could figure out, the OEM failed because of problems with the slave cylinder not full returning. Replaced with JWT Stage 1 clutch and flywheel at about 22,000 miles. Replaced the master and slave cylinders and hoses and added stop tech high perf fluid for good measure.

The JWT Stage 1 was great....until it wasn't. Failed in about 20,000 miles. Started smelling burning clutch when starting on steep inclines from dead stop and things like that. This was pretty much true for OEM as well. Then, noticed RPM climb 500 - 1,000 when punching on freeway from crusing speed and then settling back as car gained speed. Clutch completely failed within days of my noticing that.

Specialty shop was great and replaced JWT Stage 1 with same at no cost to me - other than almost $400 to get it towed 70 miles to the shop. Owner identified problems with paint on JWT clutch that lead to loosening bolts and eventual failure.

Second JWT Stage 1 was great too. But, I still noticed burning clutch smell on hot days and sometimes after hard launch, slow speed hill climb, etc. It was inconsistent and I figured was me being paranoid and that any smell was residual from the complete combustion of first JWT having left clutch dust in the vent system or something.

Well yesterday, I notice the tach popping up 200 - 300 RPM when punching to about 75% throttle at 60 MPH then falling back. My heart sank. Another clutch. My wife is going to make me dump the car. ( I spent $10G getting bodywork done after an accident last year!).

I need to get this back to the shop pronto, while I can still drive it. The issue I'm having is, what clutch to go with now? This will be another $1,500 clutch replacement and I want something that might go 100,000 miles. I just can't trust a JWT Stage I anymore.

On top of that, the tranny has been shifting more stiffly than before and I can't make a 4th to 6th coming onto freeway without grinding a bit unless I double clutch.

BTW, the car is bone stock and I drive like a little old lady most of the time. I do downshift and use engine braking in everyday driving.

What clutch/flywheel combo might go 100,000 miles?

 

Yeah. Something has to be wrong obviously. But, riding the clutch is not one of them. The left foot rest is there for a reason. I've probably been driving manual shift cars since well before you were born. The first thing one is taught is not to ride the clutch.

There is ample evidence all over the internet that the dual mass flywheel OEM clutch setup was problematic for a large percentage of owners. The OP mentioned the similar issues with G35s and BMWs with this setup.

I suspect the dealer knew about this too as I had them check it out and they kept saying they couldn't reproduce the issue. Right up until the time my four year, extended warranty expired.

Interestingly enough, this forum is NOT one of the places I found much about it a couple of years back when I was trying to decide how to handle the early OEM failure. Other Z forums and general auto discussions were much more so. Including one poor sap who was trying to get all victims to report it to the feds so as to foment a recall.

When someone says that got "XXXXXX" miles - a more reasonable number than those of us who were the data points of clutch issues with the early 350Zs that had DMF - I take that as anecdotal evidence of the larger percentage that didn't encounter problems. But not evidence that my problem with the OEM was particularly unique.

And, I did mention that there seemed to be problems with the clutch not fully returning from early on when I bought the car with only 4,500 miles. It only happened occasionally and the dealer and the independent Z specialty shop were unable to reproduce or confirm the issue. However, there was also evidence of slave cylinder sticking on the '05s as being the source of the high number of OEM clutch failures I located when searching for clutch problems with the 350Z around the net. Some had isolated boiling clutch fluid as being a problem. That's why I had the MC, slave, hose and fluid replaced with the first clutch replacement. As insurance so to speak.

I thought the JWT Stage I would be the end of clutch problems. The shop that put it in has installed hundreds of them and says they haven't encountered anything like I did with the first one. And, they replaced it at no charge and JWT threw in the replacement gratis. But 40,000 miles and two clutches later, I can see there must be some other issue.

 

No timing chain yet.
There are quite a few others here that put the miles on. The car is built like a tank in general. I know there are very unfortunate examples with transmission problems and oil consumption etc. And I truly feel sorry for those people because in general it is such a good car. If you want any history I could easily dig it up for you because there isn't much to say.
I follow all preventive maintenance to the letter and do it all myself. Only tires and alignments are not done by me. I save money and know my car.
Religious oil change, all other fluids. Spark plugs every 100,000. Coolant drain and fill once a year though.
My main problems are about 8 window motor but only the first one on each side cost money. Also note that they are rebuilding them correctly my last one hung in for almost 4 years!
Wheel bearings failed, all 4calipers have seized or dragged and are all rebuilt cores at different mileages - I have been through this on every high mileage car I've owned so consider it pretty normal.
One bad sensor (camshaft - almost left me stranded). Two or three worn out spark plug coils causing misfires.
Lots of problems with compression arm bushings and lower ball joint. It took forever to figure out what to finally replace and think some of it was causing the other to go out early but it's been like new again for a couple of years. I think I am tied on number of compression arms and window motors. Both the small ball joint or the bushings would fail.
Weather-stripping around tweeter pods and also along top of windshield gave up.
Hole in pipe right before rear muffler.
And the big one - under the fuel door it rusted through and needed $1500 body work. There is a rubber foam pad from the factory that holds water like a sponge I found out the hard way.