P0tter7

hey guys new to this site.

i have only had my z for little over a year. but in that year it was at the paint shop for about 4 months so didn't really use it much. before i took it to the paint shop my clutch was slipping from the guy i bought it from, so i drove it around slipping (was only bad if i jumped on it high rpms) not hard just easy. my buddy who owns a shop told me to order the parts and hell let me use his lift so with the being said i was crunched for time on the lift. so i bought a single mass flywheel and clutch master stage 1 clutch. put it in and went on me way. clutch grabs nice. then deer hit my car and off to paint it went.

so my problem is now that i got my car back is when sometimes i get in the car after its i started it and warm up, i try to put it in first gear it was kinda hard getting into it. but once its in its fine and the rest of the gear no problem. but also sometimes after starting the car it crunches going into reviser. not all the time only sometimes. i felt like if i pump the pedal and tried it, it would be better. and didn't really notice if it helped because like i said it only happens sometimes.also when driving it and come to a red light when i go to put it in first its hard sometimes. and my pedal wouldn't come all the way back up, i would have to lift it up with my foot. sometimes. again it didn't happen all the time. so i ordered brand new oem slave from nissan and put it in with new fluid bleed it and have the same issues. after putting the new slave in it helped with the pedal coming back up but not the rest so much. I've talked to it with my buddy to see if we can fix it and he's kinda stumped without spending a lot of time on it. I'm not paying him he's just doing me a favor.

what i think it could be is that i went with the single mass flywheel it being thinner then the dual mass that the slave isn't letting the clutch out all the way. because now it being thinner the pin getting pushed out does go as far as it should. now i no that when i let the pedal out and the clutch fork pushes the slave in its only gonna go so far and gonna stay there and gonna kinda reset itself being out further.


wondering what anyone on here has done. I've googled it and i get nothing but answers that don't help me out. thanks guys for the input

rancor

What year is your Z? It could be air in the lines or a failing master cylinder.

MicVelo

This. ^^^

But also, other info needed...

Standard (or close to OEM) weight cast iron or aluminum lightweight SMF?

Internal or external slave (as rancor asked about year)? Guessing ext as "clutch fork" was mentioned...

If ext, was clutch pivot ball replaced while you had it apart?

Was it gravity bled or pressure?

Shifter aligned after clutch R&R?

Any mods?

guitman32

iTrader: (15)

The smf fly isn’t the problem, the deer was.

iideadeyeii

iTrader: (6)

Boiling fluid will do the clutch pedal thing, air in the line, or failing clutch master cylinder/slave)

P0tter7

thanks for the reply guys

-the car is an 06
- the master was never changed just the slave was

-to be honest i forget what flywheel. i want to say it was steel because from the pic i have it don't have an insert ring that can be replaced instead of resurfacing. thats how my integra is. its all one piece so I'm gonna say steel. and it was a lot less in weight then the stock one was.

-slave is external ( oem right from nissan)

-the pivot ball was not replaced. when i had it all apart i inspected everything and nothing looked bad or i would have ordered and replaced when i had the time

- when i bleed the system i put the new slave on. then i pushed the slave in and held it. and opened the bleeder. then closed and repeated until i got fluid the burping out then i had someone in the car(me) and my buddy dad who's owned this company for 25 years opened and closed the bleeder for me during the pumping process. he wanted me to feel the differnece because i was used to it before all the work. i pumped it about 35 times then held wile he opened it then repeated until the pedal was nice and hard not spongy.

- i have no idea what you mean by the shifter realigned after the new clutch. didn't think i would have to do that after putting a clutch, i will research now and see what i come up with. if you can explain more.

- mods to the car. just the clutch. everything else is stock. stock exhaust (for now) stock intake, when bought the car i didn't want touch it and do anything crazy to it. until after have it for a week and loving the car and then a fresh paint job now i wanna change stuff but want to fix this issue first. they will be summer projects

- i was thinking about doing the master just wasn't sure because its not leaking inside at all. and i put brand new dot 3 fluid what it called for. and if the fluid was to hot it would explain the issue when i car is just started.


another thing I've read is people change the pedal in the car. to an aftermakert pedal so you can adjust the engagement point. not on the shaft going into the master. on the pedal arm it has an adjustment on it so you can change the point it engages on you foot/leg length and set to your liking i will post the link to it in a second. didn't know if anyone did that to help.

i don't understand this issue. this isn't my first car I've worked on. I've had a 97 maxima with 3.5 swap i did and also converted the car from auto to manual and had zero issues with the car. passed inspection and drove the car 4 years before selling when i got the z. I've rebuilt my integra motor and civic hatch thats a track car. and worked at my buddy shop so I'm not asking for anyone here to do the work just puzzled on the issue don't make sense. didn't know if there was like an adapter plate or something


again thanks guys for the help.

P0tter7

http://www.rjmperformance.com/350z--...edal-kits.html

this is the pedal i was talking about

P0tter7

zero input on this? no body else has had this issue before

eZg

iTrader: (5)

I don't think I would add another variable with the RJM mech.

Can't help otherwise......

guitman32

iTrader: (15)

What you need to do:

Do the master just for good measure and re-bleed.

Check your shifter plate alignment (you do this from inside the vehicle). Refer to the FSM.

Check you pedal/cmc adjustment to make sure you are full disengaging the clutch, and not over extending as well. You can do this with your rear wheels in the air.