wolfrain63

So this has been occurring for about 3 days now. After driving for about 20-30min, the TCS and SLIP lights turn on at the exact same time. I have the correct size tires, brake fluid is good, brakes where changed about a month ago. I also loose no power when this occurs and RPM can still reach red line when the lights turn on. The lights will turn off when I restart the car but will pop up again a few minutes later. If i am stopped and the lights turn on my car will stall. If I am in motion when it happens the car will jerk forward a little then drive normally. I would like to go to auto zone or orileys to get the code read but the closest one to me is about an hour away (I live in the middle of nowhere), i may just have to suck it up and drive out there but seeing if you guys might know what is wrong before I make the trip. The cheap *** OBD II reader I bought does not work for the 350z it seems.

karlt

Your code reader probably only reads fault codes from the engine ECU. Any codes related to your problem would be stored in the ABS control unit, so a higher end code reader or scan tool will be required.

To more accurately diagnose the problem, please tell us the model year and trim level of your Z.

wolfrain63

2005 coupe enthusiast trim manual transmission. I have been reading up on it and it seems a lot of people with the problem says its the camshaft sensor but they also claim loss of power which I don't lose any so I am not sure its that.

Other things I see that people say may be wrong with this problem.
Wheel speed sensor
Yaw sensor
Cameshaft sensor
MAF sensor
Brake fluid
Low brake pads
Wrong tire size

karlt

You can eliminate some of those from your list of possibles. Your enthusiast model doesn't have a yaw sensor, nor does the ABS/TCS look at brake fluid level.

Cristobalc3

Hey did you get this resolved? I have the exact same issue.

wolfrain63

Yea, I got it fixed. This was about a year ago this happened so let me think if I can remember...... If i remember correctly, I ended up replacing all of the ignition coils and that ended up fixing the issue.

Cujucuyo

Best way to know what's happening is to pull out the codes, buy a decent OBD2 reader from Amazon and it will help tons in diagnosing.

I had this same issue and it turned out to be the crankshaft and camshaft sensors going out, my engine was turning itself off while driving which was scary, it's imperative you get this fixed ASAP.

If it happens to be those 2 sensors, Hitachi makes them for Nissan and cost about $50 each, but first diagnose the issue properly.

813_350Z

It is highly recommended to only replace crank and camshaft sensors with OEM units. Any aftermarket sensors have been known to cause further issues, although your results may vary. Ensure they are actually Hitachi (OEM) before you install them.

aiko.z33

I'm having this problem right now. 2006 base model 130k miles popped up yesterday night when parking turned it off thinking none of it. Drove fine next morning as i was leaving the gym popped up again this time the rpm wasn't being read dropped to 0 ( Car is on at the moment on neutral ) the rpm gauge is bouncing from 0 to 800 normal idle speed or wtv. As of right now no codes maybe my scanner. No loss of power only pops up when i start to back out or drive. Cleaned my MAF and Throttle body. Changed my lose ground terminal (was loose ) Dont really know how to move forward to be honest.
Fluid is at corrected level
Oem tire and wheel just on 1.5 inch spacer on rears
Break pads have been changed month prior

i8acobra

iTrader: (6)

If your tach stopped working, probably the crank sensor.

aiko.z33

Can the sensor go bad with no code ? Might as well change them heard these sensors go bad either way on these cars.

i8acobra

iTrader: (6)

I've seen it happen. Not often, but yes.

aiko.z33

Went to get it scanned got
Engine code U1001 P0507 ABS U1000 IPDM U1000
Mechanic did a throttle body reset and other modules. Car worked great better than ever actually and the problems came back car is running super rich around 9-11 mpg Checked fuses everything checked out no blown fuses
Cleaned all my grounds
Still have the same symptoms returning it to my mechanic tomorrow see if he can find something.

aiko.z33

Update on my situation i previously had this issue but the codes i got communication with all modules U1000
My cluster would go crazy TCS and Slip light went off no loss of power. I knew it was electronic. Soooo i usually drive with my obd2 reader on as its Bluetooth and nothing ever happen but recently my little nephew rumbles a mess around my workspace dropping my scanner in water guess some of the pins are intercepting communication or acting up. Basically my problem was my broken scanner. What a roller coaster of events.

bre240z

i dont get it... so what was the issue? so did you fix the problem?

aiko.z33

So the problem was a communication error. My car speedometer would trip out turning every light on and not reading rpm (bounce up and down while idling) Took it to my mechanic and he scanned it with his expensive scanner because mine wasn't reading no codes just my CAT delete ones. Codes were U1000 which is a communication error between modules my ABS IPDM Meter/M&A had U1000 codes.
I used to always drive with my scanner plugged on (Bluetooth scanner) as i never had a problem. Recently i found my scanner to be in my car wash bucket with a bit of water left over. Later finding out my little nephew placed it and left it there. Didn't think the pins were damaged or had made contact with any water. So i'm guessing my scanner was intercepting these modules for a second and the car would go nuts. Guessing the water really messed up my scanner as the mechanic took it off and drove with it on for 30 minutes. The problem never arose again. I got really lucky here as i saw a bunch of outcomes with sensors and throttle bodies causing problems for people.

i8acobra

iTrader: (6)

You scanner was shorting the CAN lines. This will cause a CAN error, which is what a U code is.