I prefer Z1 bushings (and I don't like Z1) I sold my Whiteline to go with them, I just like that they are bigger in the back. I've heard of Whiteline falling out before.

 

Well, that's all relevant. Why you see so many posting about your choice in spending habits. I say your money, your car.

 

What's the over/under on a part out thread in ~3 months?

 

its not his money, its the loan sharks. Thats why its all so amusing. Its like watching a 100 day long train crash.

 

hey so update.. Havent noticed car running funny even though i havent drove it much more but it does seem weak for what it should be. but i just found out the intake thats been on it like a year when the young people had it, is 3.5 in piping... the air filter looks a little dirty too so maybe that will help cut airflow, but i wish i could afford a tune right now. i have no idea if its got stock tune or not. intake made by weapon-r.

and i think ive decided to go with bilstein b12 suspension kit instead of b8sp shocks and stance springs

 

and new transmission parts would affect tune correct? (trans and aftermarket clutch and aluminum flywheel)


i got into reverse easier when i moved car. still felt grinding going into first but may do trans after other stuff and try driving it.

 

No.

 

awesome thanks! i may literally wait until trans is failing and get everything else done first including tune, and out of expensive rental. and just change the filter to a clean one before tune, but keep the intake.

 

Not sure what you're expecting but the de is fairly optimized from the factory. Even with tune, barely any gains. Maintenance + rear diff with shorter final drive > basic NA mods.

 

well im not really expecting to get huge gains, mainly worried about reliability. But i was thinking i could poss get gains if car is running bad because of wrong air fuel mixture or something and it seems a little weak, and came with some 3.5 inch intake (edit: just measured and its 3 inches tops.. but online it says diameter 3.5 for that product). some basically ricers put on it. and thats where i worry about reliability because i read in other threads over 3 inches requires tune. So not really as worried about gains, as i am getting it running perfect so i can drive it hard with less worry. It would also be bad if they messed w computer and put a homemade tune on it. I also noticed the screws that hold my "dragon" intakes plastic cover together are very rusty. I hope this is because of poor quality screws and not water damage

thanks for rear diff suggestion though. i will change it at some point im sure. im tight budget and already ordered the diff cover w z1 bushing (edit: sorry ia8cobra, bad review on z1 for whiteline then someone else on here said they didnt like it and it was almost 50 bucks more) and new fluid. I will prob rock this out while i focus on other parts of the car like paying off loan then more suspension parts.

 

I took more photos, because that helped last time. I notice the metal of the engine doesnt look rusty but looks tarnished or strange. It lightly rained all night, and was not raining when i opened engine bay. The plastic part of engine has a little water on it if you notice. Im pretty positive it did not fall off the hood when i opened it.. Also the bolts on the air filter are rusty, and above the struts or whatever that round area is, is super rusty. i really hope this was a good choice to put another engine in someday, and try to keep this car.

 

Suspension top hat looks fairly rusted. Rust usually forms on underside, not top down. Mine has similar minor surface oxidation and I live in California. I'd worry more about changing out all fluids, coolant and power steering fluid looks dirty and most likely spent.

 

Cool, will definitely change fluids. Why would it be so rusty on top if its been garaged ten years, and rust doesnt normally form on top? ive got some good rust removal products otw. Do you think my hood needs to be sealed better? Its kind of strange i open it, and find water on engine. It was sitting outside in rain, but all closed up.

 

You are worried about rust way too much lol.
Engine bays aren't necessarily sealed, they seal to the bumper but not headlights or fenders.
Get the car running right and get all fresh fluids it there, you can replace rusty components over time.

 

Cool, i will probably still attack it with my rust remover, wire brushes, and por15 spray paint i ordered. I hope i dont make it imposible to remove top hat w spray paint on it lol. It feels good to know i got a z that doesnt seem to have been underwater and rust is okay!

car will be in shop soon and heres whats going down

exhaust install

bilstein b12 shocks and springs install (hopefully can ride this for 3 months without changing other suspension parts)

new rear diff cover with new bushings and fluid

oil change and power steering fluid change, and ask to check or change any other fluids except trans.

alignment for new suspension parts.

and i ordered a cheap replacement mesh/filter for air filter, may install myself


after all of this i plan on daily driving it, while i save up, and wait for transmission to completely fail, which i will have all the parts for.

 

Hush.

 

I’m in for ten on the overthink thread.

 

Im still overthinking lol. was about to buy the bilstein b12 shocks and springs but was worried since i cant afford aftermarket adjustable control arms for months. I hope it doesnt mess any parts up. almost considering going oem for now.

"yes the photos of this product are of the actual product and they include the springs shown. The springs are Eibach but they aren't identical to the standalone Eibach Pro-Kit springs. This kit does drop the car fairly significantly and will require adjustable suspension components to get your camber and toe settings back in spec."

 

With aftermarket/lowered suspension components, you'll likely need adjustable front upper control arms and some rear camber arms to get everything into spec. OEM FUCAs are not adjustable. A good alignment shop should be able to get everything pretty close. Just don't go to one of those "toe and go" chain shops.

 

Lets say i ride out of spec for 2 or three months, and get them later.. Will it affect anything other than my tires and handling? Like will i be able to use it as transportation without it damaging my nice new shocks and springs or anything else important? I just need it not to bottom out over simple bumps. some shocks are busted or something. I planned on getting b12 kit and alignment only.. Then control arms /camber arms in 3 months or less and another alignment.

Or if im going cheap on suspension now and it must be fixed should i get oem, and have all the aftermarket stuff installed at once. The downside of getting oem is i would not plan on keeping them. I could keep the bilstein b12 kit awhile