wow i wonder what kind of hell my shop will deal with. They are servicing my rear diff and suspension rn and were supposed to change exhaust but going to call that off since i dont have parts. But they are prob going to have to remove and try to reinstall the redneck exhaust damn. it has rusty mounts and all and looks like its made of electrical emt.


I decided just to stick w tomei and bite the bullet. i know it will work together since i already have one part of their exhaust

 

know what else is annoying? Your thread not being updated

 

What I find amusing is all of the suggestions being made and OP still goes with what's already in his cart.

 

Haha. I haven't done anything or improvements to the actual space in a while. Just enjoying having it doing car stuff and other things inside. I guess I could update it with projects, but that seems kind of lame. But I get it. I'll give the people what they want.

Useless thread is useless.

 

lol im trying to take the suggestions. the tomei exhaust has been purchased since the thread started. I dont have the cat or y pipe portion i thought it had. I actually looked at the borla suggestion and i wasnt sure they made a y pipe and cat section compatible w my tomei exhaust. I was looking at others and unsure about their compatibility or getting clear answers, plus some others were expensive too. So i went all tomei

i actually did take some suggestions lol

 

well im screwed guys guess i gotta roll the fenders.. the tires are getting destroyed.. bad. it scrapes tires in rear, i have b12 kit on and no adjustable arms yet but coming soon. i just turned in rental to save my money for this car.. commute short but tires really ripped up after 20 min drive home from shop. got alot of good stuff done to z tho. diff serviced, exhaust, b12 kit even tho it still bottoms out in rear in diff way..

 

What are your wheel/tire specs?

Explain this "bottoms out in rear in diff way."

 

so the second photo with bigger gashes is driver side rear. I noticed on passenger rear, it looked worse when i got it. But i believe it was scraping tires lightly when i got it.

When i say its different, since installing bilstein b12, the noise isnt as horrible as a bottom out noise. It sounds like maybe just the tires. It also seems to be concentrated in the rear forsure, when before it seemed more like the middle of the car. It also feels tighter, yet bottoms out easier over very mild bumps.

255/40/r18

i have an appointment to get 245/35/r18s installed on rear only. i really hope it works

 

this is the most important part... my guess is your offsets are too low

 

Tires are coming up on 5 years, so it's time to replace those anyways. Since you're only running a 255 on your 18" wheels and it doesn't look terribly stretched, I'm guessing your offsets are in the +15 range or less as Trav said. Or, there are some spacers back there, but it doesn't look like it from your pics.

I doubt your Z is "bottoming out" and the noise is obviously the tires rubbing the fenders. I'm surprised your suspension shop didn't tell you this when you picked it up.

Oh wait... no I'm not.

 

you can get a fender roller off amazon for under $50. its not hard, hear fender and do it in stages... dont try to roll flat off the get go

 

BZZZZZTT! Stop!

Where did you get that size idea?

A 245/35-18 is nearly 2" (OK, 1.93") SHORTER than stock 245/45-18. I don't know what trim your car is but if you have VDC (traction system), it's going to hate you and tell you so everytime you start rolling.

The 255/40 on there is already short for the rear (by 0.65").

First thing you need to do is take the wheels off and look for sizing info on the backside. Rota does usually stamp them. Then get back to us with the offsets. (As Trav & Heel mentioned earlier it's a good chance your rubbing is from improper offset wheels.

Either way, proper 18" sizing is 245/40-18 front, 275/40 rear on aftermarket wheels wider than 8.5. (Like 8.5F/9.5R or 9.5F/10+ rear)

 

I do have vdc on touring. Im not even sure if i like it and still havent got car sideways, since im being easy on it, and still dialing it in still. usually i pull the fuses for that stuff in my cars. I had no idea tire size would make it wig out and im pretty stupid.

update on the tires, fixed! the rear did have spacers, when tire place removed them, it fixed the problem. No more bottoming out. Im still considering rolling the fenders? There is even a place that will do it, (same place that can do specialty alignment and install my control/camber arms when i get those). i may have someone else do it, im so worried about messing up this car. Anybody suggest cutting instead of rolling fenders for aerodynamics, or leaving them alone for rigidity of structure?

the place that installed suspension did tell me that i might not even make it home in it. they didnt tell me until after i turned in my rental and showed up. They are a real good standup shop (not performance tho) and serviced my diff, changed fluids, even put exhaust on cuz redneck exhaust only went back to y-pipe. they gave some suggestions of what to do about it like rolling fenders. They did not notice spacer though.. They did everything well from what i can tell. but if i hit a hard bump i do hear something loose in front driver side suspension..


edit: guy at car place was cool and said he used to have a 800 hp tt 300zx. he said my wheels were rare? i assume he meant my rims? i just looked them up and made by rota, seem to exist still

 

5 years? how would you know that? they have a good bit of tread and seem sticky. The plan is to spend all my money on loan, and control arm setup now.. Once specialty alignment and control arm setup done, four new badass tires. its a low miles point a-b car right now.

 

the transmission is shifting better but still replacing it, since its about to be delivered at shop. so tempting to get a trans mount with bushing not solid.. I want this to be a built car one day a few years from now with 40k in parts. im considering not going ham on road, but hit autox course once kinda easy and i feel like the car matters most.. i want to road race or road rally and idk how to get into it esp being kinda low money.

i will be getting short shifter w trans, per shops reccomendation cuz of this wear.



may get the gktech strikefast. not the one that relocates gearbox even tho i barely understand that


and somebody was saying the bilstein b12 is something to keep and real good. While i havent been pushing car, it feels so stocklike. I mean its a smooth ride but im kind of let down its not stiffer

 

Rota P45s were never rare but might be now cuz they or their cars broke.🤡. Kidding, not sure these are made any longer but at the height of their “popularity”, they certainly weren’t rare as every one who sold gravity cast wheels as if they were Volks sold them or on eBay.

 

cool to know. that helps me too i didnt know what type of rotas they were exactly. now in far future i can look up weight and specs and see if i want to change.

 

45th week of 2018..... its on the tire

 

Take your $40k and go buy some custom tuned Penske or Ohlins. Because if you don’t like or feel the Bilsteins aren’t doing the job, better go get yourself some o’them fancy coilover things and have the car cornerweighted for every road you drive on.

Done. So done.

 

Im confused by the sarcasm and what youre trying to say about corner weighting and coilovers. I think that corner weighting, is what guy at specialty alignment place said they would do.

I do actually like the ohlins and a few others. everybody keeps talking about bc racing too.

Whats with the strong coilover hate and what makes them so bad?? The bilstein b12 kit does feel a tad bouncy and like there is some body roll. Idk if they are adjustable. Im thinking of buying hard bushing motor and trans mounts, but still not going solid. I almost dont want to be shaken to death like some cheap coilovers would. I still want it stiffer though

and i dont have 40k. i just plan big on this car becoming that over the years, and no longer being daily driven.