Hi, I've been having a belt squeal issue with my 350z for the past 3 years.

I tried : Changing the belt, putting a product so the belt sticks. putting a washer behind the tensionner so the belt is straight.

Basically my belt is a 5 Rib. All my pullies are 5 Ribs too but my alternator is a 6 Rib. When I put the belt on and push it to the last Rib on the alternator, it dosen't squeak. Its really nice. But when I start the car when it's a little bit humid outside, the belt slips back to the front of the alternator and starts squeaking again!!!

I just want to know if there is a solution for this without replacing my alternator pulley.

The reason why I think theres a solution is because it started after I did my ghallery gasket. Before that, it was fine.

Also, when the belt stops squealing, I can't put the alternator under any tension or else it will squeal again. If I put heating seats, AC/Hot air, Headlights or play music it willl squeal again.

 

07-08 car ?

 

It's a 2003 DE

Im trying something out. I just realised that when I start the car, it's at 12V and the squealing stops at 14v.

Im charging the battery right now, if it dosen't squeal when I start it, it means I have something draining the battery in the car..

 

I recommend the idler pulley delete mod, followed by replacing the belt with the updated OEM unit. But before that, have you tried simply tightening up the belt?
Also, I see a lot of oil residue all over the front of your engine. If any of the pulleys were contaminated with oil, it will cause the belt to squeal. If not already done, address the oil leaks, then ensure your pulleys are clean before replacing belts.

I take it the alternator is aftermarket? If the issue persists after trying what I mentioned above, I would try sourcing a used OEM alternator from a wrecker and swapping over the pulleys (I expect the shaft size to be the same). Personally I prefer sticking with OEM alternators and rebuilding them (same for PS Pumps).

I'm not a fan of "Gates" products these days. I tried some of their radiator hoses and they were garbage. Belts have so far been good, but this could be application specific.

Good Luck!
-Icer

 

Sorry if my english isn't too good. I'm French..

Well I think I found the issue.. I'm still learning everyday about cars but I think my power steering pump pulley/bearing is shot. On the video below, it doesn't do justice of how much play there is in the pulley. Im pretty sure that this is making my belt move around on the alternator pulley because of how loose it is. If anyone could confirm that this is not normal before I go to buy a new power steering pump tomorrow it would be greatly appreciated.

I didn't know I could delete the idler pulley. Will probably do this tomorrow as I get my new power steering pump. Thank you very much .


Btw the "oil" is from a product I bought. It was supposed to stop the squealing but it ended up not working and putting sticky stuff all over my engine bay... There is none on the belt, I have a brand new belt. Will eventually clean it up when I can find some OG break cleaner in Canada.. The new one suck!

 

Concept Z Performance put together a little guide on how to remove the idler pulley. This pulley was used for running a fan clutch on other VQ35DE equipped vehicles, which obviously doesn't apply to the 350Z (all electric fans). On later year 350Zs, Nissan removed it completely and introduced an updated Belt P/N since you do NEED a shorter length belt when deleting the pulley.

Here's a Link: https://conceptzperformance.com/item...lleyDelete.pdf

Cheers!
-Icer

 

The PS Pump shaft play in your video is a little more than I would like myself. But this type of play is not uncommon on this style of pump. These pumps don't use internal bearings, instead the shaft is lubricated by the PS fluid, similar to how crank and cam bearings work with engine oil pressure. What sets the axial play in the shaft are the main seals on the pump and a snap ring. I just rebuilt a Honda PS pump with a similar design, if the front seal is pressed in too far, you will get some shaft movement, also the seals start to dry out as they age and that can cause similar effects.
Cheers!
-Icer

350Z PS Pump Diagram (Note: From 2006 FSM)

 

Wow, thank you so much! I will try removing the idler pulley tomorrow.
Changed the power steering pump today and still squealing..
Hope removing the idler pulley will work!

Thank you for your time

 

Note: you need a spacer/washer when removing the pulley! Don’t remove it until you have both the spacer and the new belt!

 

Yeah, I've seen people on youtube that cut off the old bracket to make a spacer out of it. I will be doing that. Thank you

 

No way it actually worked!!! I went on a 30 minute ride, put the alternator on full charge (High beams, heated seats, ac/heat) and it didn't chrip once!!! Now I can put AC and Heat in my car without the belt sqealing!!!

Thank you so much icer, you're a hero!!

 

Glad to hear it. Chopping off the original bracket piece is certainly a valid cost saving option if you have the right tools for it.

Fingers crossed the issue doesn't come back. I take it you used a new OEM belt?
-Icer