Jumped in the Z and clutch pedal went to the floor and stayed there. I changed the master and slave. Bled, same result. Changed the slave again. Same. Talked to Z1 and they told me to use a OEM slave. Installed OEM slave and abTilton MC with a braided line. Same result. Ordered and installed the RJM pedal. Same result. The slave only extends about 1/8 of an inch. I can put my thumb on the back of the fork and the hydraulic pressure won't move it. Pumped the pedal at least a 100 times and it never builds pressure. I'm at a loss as to where to go from here. I'm ready to light her on fire and shove her off a cliff! Any advice/things to try?

 

Did you adjust the pushrod on the MC? When you bleed it, is fluid coming out of the bleeder on the slave?

Also, what procedure are you using to bleed it? The normal pump pedal/turn bleeder valve procedure doesn't work. You've got to hold the pedal down.

Try this: https://my350z.com/forum/maintenance...ed-clutch.html

 

I didn't adjust it all the way in to bleed but my helper did pump 4 times and held down but not rapidly like the FSM says. Yes I was getting fluid out but no bubbles. I guess I can try the rapid pumping and adjust the pedal all the way in first. Thanks for the reply.

 

It's an annoying procedure for sure. I think I mentioned it in the thread that I previously linked, but if you get a compatible reservoir which fits onto a power bleeder (like Motive), it's a one-person job.

Here's the write-up I used as a guide: https://my350z.com/forum/engine-driv...voir-swap.html

 

Thanks man. I appreciate that. I do have a Motiv pressure bleeder. Only way possible to bleed brakes on my C7 Vette. I'll try my universal adapter (although a PITA) first before I buy a new adapter. I appreciate the advice!

 

You may have better luck with something like a Mityvac hand-pump vacuum bleeder connected down at the slave ( ). The universal adapter on the Motive bleeder is super sketchy, best not risk a blow out. Happened to me once on a Honda...never again.

The clutch hydraulics on these are notoriously difficult to bleed fully when working with a brand new master and slave cylinder. When bleeding a fresh MC, it's best to use the OEM clutch pedal. The RJM instructions mention this, although possible to bleed with the RJM pedal, you have to reset the adjustments specifically for bleeding as the default settings have a shorter rod travel length. Even then, expect to cycle a lot of fluid through the system to purge the air bubbles. I recommend doing a bleed session with a buddy, let it sit overnight and do a 2nd session the next day. This gives the tiny foamy bubbles time to settle, making it easier to work them out.

What are the real benefits to the Tilton CMC? Does it help overcome heavy duty clutches (less effort)? I'm genuinely curious.
Cheers!
-Icer

 

Hey Icer - not sure the reason OP went with the Tilton MC, but when I swapped out the OEM setup to the JWT clutch/FW combo (way back in 2014 - had to check the archives for that one), I went with this Wilwood MC kit and got a new slave at the same time. I will say the pedal feel was noticeably different - but, in a good way. I think there is a lot of gripe about the single mass lightweight flywheels and upgraded clutches when using the OEM hydraulics, but with the different MC, it is extremely smooth and less resistance. The engagement point is defined and no guessing. I also don't feel like I just finished leg day at the gym in gridlocked traffic.

My old 00' Maxima was M/T and the clutch pedal essentially had the resistance of a thin rubber band. I wouldn't say it's that easy, but there is certainly less effort needed than the stock clutch/hydraulics that are in my G35. Seems like a happy medium.

 

Z1 said it is more reliable.

 

I tried pressure bleeding with the same results. I got one little bubble out. Ran a pint of fluid through it. Then I switched to rapidly pumping (50 times) and holding down then opening the bleed. One more tiny bubble but still a very soft pedal. I don't understand why the Z clutch would have so much trouble with a bleed. I have always had manuals and have never had these issues with other cars. Not a whole lot to the hydraulic system.

 

Open the bleed valve and compress the slave fully by hand.
close valve
pump clutch a few times and push to the floor
open bleeder again , also fully compress the slave.

if you try a traditional bleed, you will never get the air out if you don’t fully compress the slave by hand.

 

Thanks. I will try that next. I was able to get the clutch to work but it still isn't right. I have the RJM pedal set to zero. I can't raise it and still be able to shift. I did the rapid bleed and got it to sorta work. Thank you for the info. I'll try it as soon as I can.