HOW TO: Install a Walbro GSS342
05-28-2010, 06:00 PM
#83
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I followed the write up and it was a tremendous help! Thank you! Now I want to add a second pump, how can I do that? I wantone for each rail and wanted to seeif there is a way to accomplish that with most of the stock equipment? Thanks
05-29-2010, 07:49 PM
#84
adding a second pump isnt entirely possible to the stock assembly. while it HAS been done, it cannot be done proper.
your options are to move to a CJM twin pump assembly, or to add a pickup to your stock assembly for an external secondary pump.
06-14-2010, 09:01 PM
#85
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another big thank you for sharing these instructions here. now that you mention your twin setup I have a question about the CJM twin pump assy & it's use with an HR engine. I'm planning on running your twin assy on an HR motor & the rails are not usable from the DE from what I hear & there are no replacement rails available yet for the HR motor also from what I hear. the stock HR fuel rails are pretty big though, there like a hollow 1/2" square tubing.
the rear of these rails are just squared off blank ends. my thoughs are to drill & weld in 2 -6AN fittings at the rear of the rails & feed it directly from the CJM twins run to the front with a single -8AN line Y'd front & rear , then have what was the original rail input up front, now become the rail output, sending a -6AN back to the regulator from there
does this sound like it would work well & should I just leave the little dampeners in place on either side of the oe rails or remove them & block them off?
do you think it is at all possible that the original single input to these rails would be too restrictive as a return & not allow me to get lower pressure at idle with the twin pump assy?
which leads me to my last question, does the twin assy contain any sort of regulator at all? I'm assuming not but can't hurt to ask. thanks for any wisdom you'd care to share
the rear of these rails are just squared off blank ends. my thoughs are to drill & weld in 2 -6AN fittings at the rear of the rails & feed it directly from the CJM twins run to the front with a single -8AN line Y'd front & rear , then have what was the original rail input up front, now become the rail output, sending a -6AN back to the regulator from there
does this sound like it would work well & should I just leave the little dampeners in place on either side of the oe rails or remove them & block them off?
do you think it is at all possible that the original single input to these rails would be too restrictive as a return & not allow me to get lower pressure at idle with the twin pump assy?
which leads me to my last question, does the twin assy contain any sort of regulator at all? I'm assuming not but can't hurt to ask. thanks for any wisdom you'd care to share
Last edited by turbocad6; 06-14-2010 at 09:04 PM.
06-15-2010, 01:56 PM
#86
Currently we do not offer HR rails. However, if your car is going to be down anyway... then sending us a lower intake runner section with fuel rails mounted will be rewarded with a free set of fuel rails.
Also... you are correct that your stock rails internally are more than large enough to support high HP. The same is true of the DE rails and actually most factory rails on most engines.
The trouble, as you have noticed, is the lines feeding the rails. While the pipe feeding yours rails will probably support more power then most people would think, you can start to run into issues with individual cylinder tuning as pressure dropoff across the rail assembly can be experienced when feeding it with such a little pipe. Welding fittings on is a solution that will definately get the job done. But as I am sure you can understand, it is much simplier for most customers to just buy new rails and not have to worry about leaking welds etc etc. So this is why we just do the billet rails rather then modifying the stock ones.
Your entire plan sounds very suitable. The factory feed plumbing may or may not be large enough for the return line with twin pumps... that would be my only concern. You can always stage the pumps to only have one operating until you are in boost to lessen the load on the return, in which case it would surely be large enough.
Our twin pump assembly is pretty much 2 pumps in a can with a pair of siphons. There was no room to integrate an internal post-pump filter like the OEM assembly has... so it only has the pre-pump filters (socks). So running an external filter under the car is recommended.
There is no regulator in there either. I beleive that most consumers are already running an external regulator and return configuration long before they need our twin pump. So we had not really considered a returnless in-tank regulator configuation option.
Let me know if you need any other help.
Thanks.
Also... you are correct that your stock rails internally are more than large enough to support high HP. The same is true of the DE rails and actually most factory rails on most engines.
The trouble, as you have noticed, is the lines feeding the rails. While the pipe feeding yours rails will probably support more power then most people would think, you can start to run into issues with individual cylinder tuning as pressure dropoff across the rail assembly can be experienced when feeding it with such a little pipe. Welding fittings on is a solution that will definately get the job done. But as I am sure you can understand, it is much simplier for most customers to just buy new rails and not have to worry about leaking welds etc etc. So this is why we just do the billet rails rather then modifying the stock ones.
Your entire plan sounds very suitable. The factory feed plumbing may or may not be large enough for the return line with twin pumps... that would be my only concern. You can always stage the pumps to only have one operating until you are in boost to lessen the load on the return, in which case it would surely be large enough.
Our twin pump assembly is pretty much 2 pumps in a can with a pair of siphons. There was no room to integrate an internal post-pump filter like the OEM assembly has... so it only has the pre-pump filters (socks). So running an external filter under the car is recommended.
There is no regulator in there either. I beleive that most consumers are already running an external regulator and return configuration long before they need our twin pump. So we had not really considered a returnless in-tank regulator configuation option.
Let me know if you need any other help.
Thanks.
another big thank you for sharing these instructions here. now that you mention your twin setup I have a question about the CJM twin pump assy & it's use with an HR engine. I'm planning on running your twin assy on an HR motor & the rails are not usable from the DE from what I hear & there are no replacement rails available yet for the HR motor also from what I hear. the stock HR fuel rails are pretty big though, there like a hollow 1/2" square tubing.
the rear of these rails are just squared off blank ends. my thoughs are to drill & weld in 2 -6AN fittings at the rear of the rails & feed it directly from the CJM twins run to the front with a single -8AN line Y'd front & rear , then have what was the original rail input up front, now become the rail output, sending a -6AN back to the regulator from there
does this sound like it would work well & should I just leave the little dampeners in place on either side of the oe rails or remove them & block them off?
do you think it is at all possible that the original single input to these rails would be too restrictive as a return & not allow me to get lower pressure at idle with the twin pump assy?
which leads me to my last question, does the twin assy contain any sort of regulator at all? I'm assuming not but can't hurt to ask. thanks for any wisdom you'd care to share
the rear of these rails are just squared off blank ends. my thoughs are to drill & weld in 2 -6AN fittings at the rear of the rails & feed it directly from the CJM twins run to the front with a single -8AN line Y'd front & rear , then have what was the original rail input up front, now become the rail output, sending a -6AN back to the regulator from there
does this sound like it would work well & should I just leave the little dampeners in place on either side of the oe rails or remove them & block them off?
do you think it is at all possible that the original single input to these rails would be too restrictive as a return & not allow me to get lower pressure at idle with the twin pump assy?
which leads me to my last question, does the twin assy contain any sort of regulator at all? I'm assuming not but can't hurt to ask. thanks for any wisdom you'd care to share
06-15-2010, 04:24 PM
#87
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thanks bro, I just ordered your twin setup from injected, he did offer me to send in mine to have you guys build rails last week, but I keep hoping I'm going to get this thing running in less than the 2 months he said it would take, so I hesitated to take you guys up on that offer wish I thought of this in the beginning stages of my build. if you still have nothing come winter time though I may take you up on this & send you my whole lower plenum at that point...
as far as staging the pumps, I really like that idea & did think of that, but I thought that I might need a check valve at the second pumps outlet so one pump wouldn't backfeed through the other. is this a concern, or is it when the pump is off it won't backfeed anyway? also, from my understanding of everything, having the second pump kick in wouldn't affect the tune with like a transitional point because the regulator is going to maintain a static relative pressure anyway, is this true?
one last question, I'm doing this in an FX & the tank setup is very similar to the G & Z, in that it has a siphon hose from the left side tank to feed the right. I'm assuming your twin setup has to of course use the same type syphon setup, but was just wondering if you had any experience at all with the tank setup of the FX & if you knew of any differences there or anything else to be aware of? thanks so much for your help, it is much appreciated...
wish I thought of this in the beginning stages of my build. if you still have nothing come winter time though I may take you up on this & send you my whole lower plenum at that point...as far as staging the pumps, I really like that idea & did think of that, but I thought that I might need a check valve at the second pumps outlet so one pump wouldn't backfeed through the other. is this a concern, or is it when the pump is off it won't backfeed anyway? also, from my understanding of everything, having the second pump kick in wouldn't affect the tune with like a transitional point because the regulator is going to maintain a static relative pressure anyway, is this true?
one last question, I'm doing this in an FX & the tank setup is very similar to the G & Z, in that it has a siphon hose from the left side tank to feed the right. I'm assuming your twin setup has to of course use the same type syphon setup, but was just wondering if you had any experience at all with the tank setup of the FX & if you knew of any differences there or anything else to be aware of? thanks so much for your help, it is much appreciated...
06-17-2010, 10:56 AM
#88
Walbros have built in check valves, so you dont have to worry about that. Yes the second pump turning on shouldnt effect fuel pressure unless the return line is momentarily overwhelmed.
our twin pump that you have purchased is not tall enough to put in your tank. While you can run it for a little while if you keep the tank topped off, you will need to send it in for modifications to make the unit taller. It will not be able to use your entire gas tank as is. The good news is that the level sensor will also be up much higher... so you are really not going to notice the difference other than the miles per tank will appear less because you cannot access all the fuel on the pump side of the tank.
-Charles
our twin pump that you have purchased is not tall enough to put in your tank. While you can run it for a little while if you keep the tank topped off, you will need to send it in for modifications to make the unit taller. It will not be able to use your entire gas tank as is. The good news is that the level sensor will also be up much higher... so you are really not going to notice the difference other than the miles per tank will appear less because you cannot access all the fuel on the pump side of the tank.
-Charles
thanks bro, I just ordered your twin setup from injected, he did offer me to send in mine to have you guys build rails last week, but I keep hoping I'm going to get this thing running in less than the 2 months he said it would take, so I hesitated to take you guys up on that offer wish I thought of this in the beginning stages of my build. if you still have nothing come winter time though I may take you up on this & send you my whole lower plenum at that point...
as far as staging the pumps, I really like that idea & did think of that, but I thought that I might need a check valve at the second pumps outlet so one pump wouldn't backfeed through the other. is this a concern, or is it when the pump is off it won't backfeed anyway? also, from my understanding of everything, having the second pump kick in wouldn't affect the tune with like a transitional point because the regulator is going to maintain a static relative pressure anyway, is this true?
one last question, I'm doing this in an FX & the tank setup is very similar to the G & Z, in that it has a siphon hose from the left side tank to feed the right. I'm assuming your twin setup has to of course use the same type syphon setup, but was just wondering if you had any experience at all with the tank setup of the FX & if you knew of any differences there or anything else to be aware of? thanks so much for your help, it is much appreciated...
wish I thought of this in the beginning stages of my build. if you still have nothing come winter time though I may take you up on this & send you my whole lower plenum at that point...as far as staging the pumps, I really like that idea & did think of that, but I thought that I might need a check valve at the second pumps outlet so one pump wouldn't backfeed through the other. is this a concern, or is it when the pump is off it won't backfeed anyway? also, from my understanding of everything, having the second pump kick in wouldn't affect the tune with like a transitional point because the regulator is going to maintain a static relative pressure anyway, is this true?
one last question, I'm doing this in an FX & the tank setup is very similar to the G & Z, in that it has a siphon hose from the left side tank to feed the right. I'm assuming your twin setup has to of course use the same type syphon setup, but was just wondering if you had any experience at all with the tank setup of the FX & if you knew of any differences there or anything else to be aware of? thanks so much for your help, it is much appreciated...
06-17-2010, 11:31 AM
#89
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wow, glad I asked... I'm pretty handy & should be able to extend it a bit I think, I did consider this a possibility when I ordered it, but compared pictures of a 350z to mine & they look so similar that I figured the only difference could be depth... I'm assuming you did away with the spring loaded bucket? if I have any other questions I'll pm you, thanks for the input man...
06-17-2010, 11:36 AM
#90
wow, glad I asked... I'm pretty handy & should be able to extend it a bit I think, I did consider this a possibility when I ordered it, but compared pictures of a 350z to mine & they look so similar that I figured the only difference could be depth... I'm assuming you did away with the spring loaded bucket? if I have any other questions I'll pm you, thanks for the input man...
Yes they are exactly the same unit just a height difference.
Our unit is a complete drop in assembly and nothing from the factory one is transferred over other than the siphon barb o-ring.
our unit is not spring loaded, it is just set to the correct height for a 350/G35C fuel tank.
We have done them for the FX before but I may or may not have misplaced my dimensions on it, requiring you to measure the depth of your tank from the top flange.
i would highly recommend sending it in for extending but if you want to try it you can. you will need to replace the studs hold the chrome rods to the top flange with longer ones, and then put a spacer between the flange and rods.
09-04-2010, 11:36 AM
#93
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The website is down. Any idea when it'll be back up?
Is there another guide floating around the internet? I pulled out my fuel pump assembly this morning but now this guide is down...I don't know which 3 of the 4 tabs I'm supposed to cut without a picture. I also have no clue what I'm supposed to drill holes into
Anybody have another walbro guide or a cached copy of this page with pictures?
Is there another guide floating around the internet? I pulled out my fuel pump assembly this morning but now this guide is down...I don't know which 3 of the 4 tabs I'm supposed to cut without a picture. I also have no clue what I'm supposed to drill holes into
Anybody have another walbro guide or a cached copy of this page with pictures?
09-04-2010, 04:26 PM
#96
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Installing the Walbro this way, if I decide to go to an RFS at a later date, will i have to un-do any of the modifications or change anything (other than drilling the hole for the fuel return line)?
02-19-2011, 12:18 AM
#99
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installed my walbro the other day and it works fine.. fuel pressure is exactly the same it was with the oem pump.
two questions:
1. what is that black sensor (green circle on pic) with the two wires going to it? i didn't have it on my european 2003 track although the wire clips were present but unused on the pump assembly.
2. i left that black rubber piece located at the bottom of the pump out as it didn't fit as snuck on the walbro and didn't seem to have an important fuction. now i wonder if that piece is there to dampen some of the vibrations of the pump to the gastank as i now have quite a audible buzzing sound coming from the tank area behind the passangerseat.
anyone did reuse that rubber part? if so, can you hear your pump buzzing when idling?
thnx
two questions:
1. what is that black sensor (green circle on pic) with the two wires going to it? i didn't have it on my european 2003 track although the wire clips were present but unused on the pump assembly.
2. i left that black rubber piece located at the bottom of the pump out as it didn't fit as snuck on the walbro and didn't seem to have an important fuction. now i wonder if that piece is there to dampen some of the vibrations of the pump to the gastank as i now have quite a audible buzzing sound coming from the tank area behind the passangerseat.
anyone did reuse that rubber part? if so, can you hear your pump buzzing when idling?
thnx
