Just installed my walbro today via the OP's site, awesome write up

I have one method that i thought i'd share that made putting on the metal fuel sock retainer easy for me. I used a penny to keep one side of the retainer in place while using a flathead to push the other side down onto the plastic rod/nipple....working it back and forth until it was seated satisfactorily. Attached is a pic of what i mean....

 

I left the rubber piece out, i've started the car up a few times and the pump is definately louder (as expected) but i havent driven it yet. I didnt notice any buzzing or vibration, I made sure the cap at the bottom of the pump was VERY snug so that might be why. Maybe you filed the cap down too much?

 

nah it's not like i hear something really vibrating or buzzing.. it's just the humm of the pump that i hear.

i didn't have the file the locking cap. after cutting away the 4 thingieson the underside of the pump the cap fit snug.

 

Hmm..well i guess whatever works I cut 3 of 4 tabs like the writeup, went for a drive earlier and no problems at all, the pump is louder than factory, but i could only hear it running at idle after a drive.

 

Yes that is a fuel temperature sensor.

Most people don't trim the plastic enough to fit the rubber bushing back in. I never do. It may slightly reduce some noise from the pump, but keep in mind the 255 is quite a bit louder than a stock pump anyway. It's normal to hear it, especially if you don't have a loud exhaust.

 

man u can hear it on my car like crazy. From outside it sounds like the inside of a plane when its sitting suring boarding. lol

 

I used this guide today and it was a god send.

Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge

 

Anyone know if the gss341 can be used instead of gss342? I have a gss341 laying around and was wondering if it would work.

 

Is the Swirl Jet Modification Procedure required for the DW300 ltr pump ? Just installed mine today and didnt do the jet modification yet.. Still NA but will be going FI when all my parts arrive.

Thanks

 

of course it is

 

Thanks for replying but was that for me or andz33?

This is in responce to the DW301 that i have, will Swirl Jet Modification Procedure need to be done:
1. When running NA stock motor (just bolt ons)
2. Built NA
3. FI

If 1. = YES then What happens if i just leave if while stock NA for now?

I have installed it already but will take it out if needed.

When upto this part "ONLY drill until you make it thru the sheet metal."
Can you give a better description or draw on your image of the part where it is, i had a quick look while i had the pump out and didnt see what you meant.


Thanks



A few things i found that may differ to the Walbro when installing the DW301.

1. The fourth tab (far left one) also needs to be trimmed, just half of it
2. You dont need to file off the marked green section, the cover fits on perfect, nice and snug.
3. You may want to trim before you put the fuel filter on.


For those who hate the noise of Walbro:
Oh and even with the back seats not in place, as i was going on a test drive i could barley hear the pump at all!! I had to lean over in the back and listen for it, with the seats on i wont hear a thing

So maybe a reason to get DW301 other than the increased fuel capacity and E85 compliance

 

gss341 will not work, the input/output offset is opposite. although im sure you could make it work with some motivation.

as far as your questions... you are asking me questions that are all individually addressed in the DIY article posted. it states "Part 2: Swirl Jet Modification Procedure (REQUIRED FOR GSS342) If this step is skipped, your idle and low RPM/Load fuel pressure will be high and cause tuning grief. This will address the issue and is required WITH or WITHOUT a return fuel system."

being that your DW pump's output is even higher than the GSS342, one could naturally assume the problem will be even greater if not addressed.

As to where the regulator can be found, I dont think I could do a better job of explaning it than the 2 photographs showing you how to remove it that are directly above the photograph you linked. Unless you are meaning to ask something else?

As for your NA versus FI questions.... a fuel pump assembly does not know if your engine is NA or FI. The fuel pump is constantly pumping 100% of its capacity. how much of that fuel your engine is capable of burning at full throttle is largely irrelevent for the most part. The purpose of the modifications to the regulator and swirl jet are to improve return side flow of the fuel pump assembly so that fuel pressure remains controllable in idle and low load situations where the amount of return fuel is very high... in your case even higher than a GSS342.

So in short words, it doesnt matter if your car is NA or boosted.. the mods are to support the higher flow of the fuel pump whether you are using it to its capacity or not.

 

Thanks Charles,
Maybe add GSS342/DW301 to the write up to save questions, now i know its due to increased fuel pump output it makes sense.

And NA Vs FI i see now, makes sense

And sorry for my wording, i know where the regulator is, as i was saying i was looking at it and saw the little hole but my question was once you are drilling into it, how do you know you have passed the sheet metal? Is is just below that first rubber o ring, or further towards the bottom of the smaller diameter shaft? That was my question. Do you feel it lose once you pass it ect

Cheers

 

the sheet metal i am describing is just the exterior surface that you can see. that small oriface is all that needs enlarging

 

I get that, i was trying to gauge how careful or how far i would expect to drill to open up the orifice before i went to far and drilled into something i shouldnt.

Im going to drill store now, hope they have what i need. .70 + 7/64?
I used 1/16" for the .70, .62close enough

 

.070 is .070

.70 is a little smaller that 3/4" (.75)

7/64 is .109375, Is still 53% larger than .070

Get a .070 Drill........

 

Is the fuel pressure regulator hollow?

 

That CJM fitting that replaces the regulator is indeed hollow. its purpose is merely to allow you a way to send your return fuel into the venturi channels of the fuel pump assembly. So if you have a lathe or something of the like, it would be very simple to construct your own and save money.

 

^ thanks. Just wanted to make sure since I just hollowed the oem regulator out and attached a 90 degree fitting

 

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