really? thats great news! there wouldnt happen to be short tube headers available for cats for a possible BAR would there be?

 

nobody has developed short tubes yet. There are many companies who make some for swaps, but not the 350z in perticular. I have been curious about these sanderson headers for ls1 swapped miatas. I wonder if they will fit. They only come out 2.5 inches from the heads and the driver side header drops 2 more inches than the passenger side to help clear the steering shaft.

http://www.sandersonheaders.com/Sand...eader-Set.html

 

those might work maybe some custom work on a set of CARB approved HFC's would go with this? just needs to pass bar or smog then on goes the LT's hmmm

 

I have read through this whole thread now and had a question in regards to accessories and what works.

Basically, I got from reading that CTS-V, GTO, and F-body accessories are in the best mounting locations for Z engine bay clearances (correct me if I am wrong).

However, I was curious if I were to pick up a dropout LQ9 escalade motor with all accessories, am I going to have to swap them to the GTO/F-body/CTS-V accessories? Or will the LQ9 truck positioned accessories work, just not being ideally situated?

I can see from some pictures that I found that the alternator is obviously mounted much higher on the LQ9's, but how do the waterpump and powersteering placement vary (A/C is not a priority for me)?

 

Do you know if these swap kits will work with the 07/08 z?

 

As far as I know - there is no difference in the engine mount locations, clearance, or driveshaft for the different years whether it is a DE, Revup, or HR. So as long as it's a 350z, the kits all work the same regardless of year/model/trim. Your ECU harnesses are going to be different, but that isn't part of the kit - that's the part that everyone gets to have fun with (or pay someone else and wait).

 

after reading a bit about the different ls series engines it seems like the ls1 is limited to a 383 stroker unless you sleeve the block. Seems cheaper to buy an LS2 block and do a 402 or 408 stroker. Now could i do this and use an ls1 engine harness electronics and intake manifold?

 

not much boring you can do to an ls1 blcok, and sleeving is pretty expensive. if you want more cubes, pick up a larger block, or an iron block to bore out to hell

 

ya i see that the lq9 bare blocks go for pretty cheap, and i found some stroker kits for pretty cheap. seems like you can do a whole build for 3 g's if you do the work yourself on an lq9. but would the elecronics be more similar to the ls1 or ls2 gen IV's?

 

^^^ so you making your own mounts then? 3k for a whole build not happening in my opinion.

 

Agreed... I can barely stare at my car without it costing me $3,000... and I made everything myself... not to mention I'm typically removing stuff rather than adding it.

 

Aren't you done with your build yet D? Havent heard any word from you in a while.

 

Even if you got the LQ9 engine, tranny, accessories, sensors, harness, and ecu for cheap - at a minimum you have to buy or fabricate mounts, headers, exhaust, driveshaft, oil pan, hoses, lines, harness mods, tach, etc. I'm looking to do it on a poor man's budget and the costs are already adding up.

So I'm guessing the "build for 3 g's" he's just talking about is just the cost to build the motor alone, not the entire swap.

 

This ^^^^^ only the engine not the whole swap.

 

Okay Gotcha...

 

yea been super busy with work and school. almost 50 hours at work alone lol. cars comin together nice though, just tedious, pounding it out within the next few weeks though, so hopefully itll be running by end of may. hows your neighbor?

 

I am landscaping my yard, pouring a cement driveway and working like 60 hours a week right now on top of revamping a ton of things on my car. On top of that I now work in Sheboygan so my drive is an hour each way...

Check out my Facebook to see more of what I have been working on.

 

D stop complaing and put your car together already. I work a 60-70 hour weeks/weekends since we have moved into our new shop If i have time you have time.

 

I'm getting ready to start installing/fabricating my accelerator pedal. What have people done for LS2 DBW setups? I have done a bit of reading and GM uses several types of pedal position sensors and they are very sensitive to the style, which sucks because I was hoping to just use the Nissan pedal and wire it into the GM harness.

I did some measuring last night and I think I can make a bracket to adapt the GM pedal to the Nissan mount location and then weld on the Nissan pedal to get the location correct. But if there's and easier way I'm up for that.

 

GM pedal bolts right in of of a GTO