I went with Chase Bays, which I highly recommend.. They will get you everything you need in-terms as wiring goes. Then just change out your tech gauage and you are good to go.. All other gauges will work fine.

 

Awesome! That makes my life easier. I was under the impression that none of the gauges worked. What about a/c? I remember reading that people were having problems with that.

 

I believe Chase Bays is in the process of getting a company to make custom a/c lines for the swap. Chase Bays also has been working on getting the factory nissan tach to work with the GM ecu.

 

Does anyone know if Hinson's CANgateway is supposed to make the tach work or just the other instruments/gauges?

 

Does anyone know if an S13 gas pedal will mount up on the G/Z? I found a DBW GTO gas pedal modified with an S-13 mount.

Let me know ASAP!! Thanks!!

 

From what I have heard, it will not make the tach work.


Check with Logan at Chase Bays (brew_haha). He said a 240sx pedal was a direct replacement when he went throttle cable. Unsure if it was s13 or s14 though. I have searched on ebay for 240sx pedals and they all look different

 

Sparkle this will not allow the stock tach to work. There are four solutions:

1. Use speedhut tach.
2. Use Racepack dash.
3. Disassemble the stock tach and find the circuitry used to run the "stepper" motor and wire the tach signal there. (This one has only been done on Cass's car). I may have left out some details, but this is the gist of it.

 

4. Wait for brew haha(chase bays) because I believe(don't quote me on this) that they are working on something for this problem.

 

I heard the same thing. I am waiting patiently.

 

Bummer that I just ordered my harness from them if they come Up with a solution soon.

 

I am using a STACK gauge but if I was you I would just go the SpeedHut route, looks like OEM and preforms perfect.

 

We have done one but the tach is still glitchy and for the price of including the stock ECU to retain a stock gauge cluster you could have a nice aftermarket one. I know some people might not like this but we might have a future option available for the stock cluster.

 

The s13/14 pedal will mount to the stock pedal location on the g/z thats what im running for my throttle cable setup.

 

i just went the speedhut route. was cheap, simple to install, and looks oh so fancy. thatd be your best bet overall imho.

 

So, I have very serious about doing an ls swap, but I can't pull the trigger on which motor, I have been trying to read up on the dIfferent motors and this is what I have come up with, PLEASE critique me,

LS1, cheapest of the 3 I will talk about, makes pretty good power
LS2, seems to make strong power and torque, not that much more expensive than LS1, but alittle more involved swap
LS6, seems like you can swap heads, Pcv and intake manifold and make a ls1 into an ls6

I am not swapping this into a 350z, this will be going in a 3rd gen rx7, tighter fit and kinda restrictive in some places ie, can't run a fast intake

 

if your looking for price vs/ hp capability, lq motors are the way to go. those are indestructible.

the main difference between the ls1/ls2 heads is the cathedral ports on the heads, knock sensor location, and as you stated, pcv design.

 

I'm looking at the prices for the LQ4 or LQ9 motors and they are so much less than the LS1 or LS2. It looks like the weight difference is about 75-85 pounds, so I'm thinking that the several thousand dollars that I could save on using the heavier block could be invested in power adders to more than make up for the added weight.

I know this isn't pure science, but per this online estimator/calculator http://www.wallaceracing.com/et-hp-mph.php it looks like:

A 3000lb car @ 400hp should be around 11.4 ET and 117.5mph.
For a 3100lb car to have an 11.4ET, it's estimated that it will need 415 hp.

So I would just need an extra 15hp to get the same ET if the car was 100 pounds heavier. I realize that there are questions of handling with that extra weight being in the front of the vehicle, but I'm thinking that I can relocate the battery and do some other things with the money saved and still come out ahead.

It also sounds like I can swap the heads to aluminum, and then it wouldn't be the whole 75-85 pounds heavier.

Opinions?

 

the stock heads on the LQ blocks are aluminum, except early LQ4s i believe

 

Ah, I saw something on LS1Tech about a guy swapping to the aluminum L92 heads, and he was talking about the weigh savings, so I made a bad assumption there. Huge difference in price considering what I've been able to find so far. And I'm throwing my current NANO nitrous with progressive controller on top of it, so I just don't know that the aluminum block is worth the extra $$$ for me based on the facts/numbers that I'm looking at. But I'm wanting one of the guys in here with the swap experience to either confirm that I'm not crazy or to lead me down the path to why I should do the LS instead.

Remember, I'm a broke country boy shade tree mechanic, so speak slow and with a drawl so that I can understand.

 

^lmao, also mind that when people add twin turbos etc to the vq they are adding alot of weight up front, something that often i feel gets neglected when brought up. the ls isnt much heavier than the vq, and the lq isnt much heavier than the ls, but with the proper relocation and placement of parts, i feel it can maintain close to the factory 53/47 distibution