I dug up some extra info on specific truck motors for the "budget" LS guys like me:

2007 5.3 L33 Silverado/Sierra 310hp
2007 5.3 LS4 Impala SS/MCSS/Grand Prix GXP 303hp
2008 5.3 LS4 Impala SS/GXP 303hp
2007 5.3 LC9 Avalanche/Suburban 310hp
2007 5.3 LC9 Yukon/Silverado/Avalanche 315hp
2007 5.3 LH6 Trailblazer/Envoy Denali/Buick Rainer/Saab 9-7 302hp
2007 5.3 LH6 Silverado/Sierra 315hp
2008 5.3 LH6 Trailblazer/Envoy Denali/Saab 9-7 300hp
2008 5.3 LH6 Silverado/Sierra 315hp
2008 5.3 LH8 Hummer 3 Alpha 300hp
2008 5.3 LMG Avalanche/Suburban/Tahoe/Yukon/Silverado/Sierra 320hp

Even better breakdown -

Gen III & Gen IV Engines



Significant Gen III Engineering Points:

1. All Gen III truck engines use iron blocks. Only the Camaro (F-Car) and Corvette (Y-car)LS1/LS6 engines feature aluminum blocks.

2. All Gen III engines have aluminum heads except for the '99 LQ4 engines that were equipped with iron heads. These engines received aluminum heads for the 2000 model year.

3. All Gen III engines share common main,rod,and cam-bearing journal diameters for ease of interchange. All blocks use a cross-bolted six-bolt main cap.

4. All Gen III engines are completely metric.

5. All valvetrain pieces are completely interchangable. The standard rocker ratio for all Gen III engines is 1.7:1.

6.All Gen III truck engines use cast aluminum oil pans that are deeper than the camaro or corvette pans.

7. All intake manifolds interchange. The truck intakes are roughly 3-4 inches taller than the passenger-car intakes.

8. All Gen III engines employ reusable gaskets for sealing surfaces except for the head gaskets. This makes it much quicker and easier to service the engine.

9. There are only two intake valve sizes for all the Gen III engines. Exhaust valves are all the same diameter.

10. Truck and camaro engines use cable throttle linkage while the corvettes use an electronic throttle. There are also some SUV engines with traction control that use electronic throttle control.

11. Bellhousing patterns are the same for all Gen III engines. The crank flange is basically the same depth as the bellhousing flange.

12. The Gen III firing order has been revised from 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 to 1-8-7-2-6-5-4-3. Note that the pairings 1-8, 4-3, 6-5, 7-2 remain the same, but the pairing order is different for reduced vibration.

13. The valve angle on all Gen III engines is 15 degrees versus 23 degrees for the origional and Gen II small-blocks.

14. The Gen III bore spacing is the same as the origional small-block, but each cylinder is ringed with only four head bolts instead of five.

 

Its decided.....Viper SRT v10 for front mount engine, w16 engine for rear mount and mid mount will be the ls3 and that should put me around 34 cylinders and give or take a shizz ton of liters...

 

Numbers 1 & 10 are inaccurate, as L33 and lm4's are aluminum blocked engines and a lot of trucks came with DBW TB's. After getting scrwewed out of a 4.8 I purchased an Iron block gen III 5.3 (I don't know the code off the top of my head) for my build out of a 1500 chevy and it had DBW.

 

just waiting on my harness....

everything else...done. minus the one headlight that my brother ran over. still waiting on that thing too. been a solid 3 weeks for that sucker.

 

Would a Stage 0 CJ-M fuel return system be worth keeping? I see Brew Haha is using a CJ-m fuel conversion? I parting out a turbo build to fund this. Not messing with the VQ now that she is my weekend mistress.

Chris

 

Yea i woud keep the stage 0 as you can reuse 90% of it for the LSX swap only thing you wont use is the lines for the stock VQ stuff and the fuel rail adapter.

 

Thank you sir! Engine shopping now.

Chris

 

Just spent well over 3 hours reading through this thread but damn it was worth it. Some real good info in here to put in the back of my mind.

EDIT: So will the sikky kit work with the TR6060 trans?

 

just doing some fun reading. For you fellas with the ls1 and happen to decide to want to go LS2, here is an easy swap for you maybe?

http://www.ls2.com/forums/showthread.php?t=626014

 

I actually have a customer doing exactly this same thing on a 2007 LSX ^^^

 

Have had some things come up (car getting keyed and other misc money issues) but im close to being ready to get this thing started

Never came back to state that i did end up purchasing this motor, had it looked at and said that it was from what they can see good to go. Now from the bit of looking around that ive done i think I want to swap over to LS6 heads and IM, Cam the motor, Sikky Kit and get custom piping done for CAI and Exhaust. Dont know what to do has far as the Diff is concerned.

Also my goal for this motor is the 450+ range. How easy/hard would this be? What should do with the new ls6 heads or block while its out of the vehicle?

I will continue to read on my own and look through current build threads and figure some things out but i would love yalls help and answers via this thread, ESPECIALLY when it comes in to the little things that could present problems since this isn't as simple for me as it is for yall

THANKS ALOT IN ADVANCE GUYS

ALEX

 

What heads are on the motor now? 853's? If go with a cam you will want chromoly pushrods and beehive springs. If you remove heads you can't reuse the head bolts or gaskets so there is some additional expense.

 

There is the quote from rambo and thats what he says im working with, not to put him on the spot but yea im not sure what all the numbers mean as far as heads and blocks between all the different LS series motors or what they are. Is it stamped on the heads?

And so besides sending the block off to get cleaned all i should do is just start assembly?

 

Stock diff is fine for that power im at 478 hp 440 tq and havent had a problem. Dont waste your time on welding a custom intake i will post some pics of mine i just used a 45 coupler, 45 pipe and 90 coupler and its perfect. I suggest the fueled racing kit over the sikky but will have my sikky kit up for sale in the next couple of weeks.

 

You keep recommending their kit but I don't see any real swaps to support why they are better (?).

 

^im gonna go on a limb here and say its because the motor sits further back utilizing the oem shifter setup. seems to be their only real problem with that kit, aside form their atrocious wiring skills.

 

They retain the stock shifter location so you can use the nicer short shifters that are out there for them.

Their oil pans have a different location for the dip stick so it doesnt shoot up when you get on it.

The clutch line kit has the right size banjo bolt that doesnt strip out when you tighten it.

Cheaper and comes with headers with V band clamps.

Better placement of the motor so you have clearance and room up front for boost.

I liked the sikky kit at first but then have just had numerous little problems and 1 or two big problems with the shifter. Ended up making up my own stuff to fix issues that i had with theirs, clutch line, fule line kit, power steering kit, and modified the other things that i didnt have the machines to make new stuff.

 

I can second most of what Brewhaha is saying at least on the Sikky kit, I've changed nearly every component of my Sikky kit except the motor mounts but I'd like to change them too..

I am curious about the dipstick issue, obviously I'm not running yet. I would think if you're PVC was plumbed to the intake this would go away. How do people having this issue have theirs plumbed?

 

I have mine plumbed and still having the issue. The spot that its located in just sees to much crank pressure and pop goes the weasel.

 

Interesting. Do you also have the head(s) plumbed in before the TB or just open to the atmosphere?