Progress wise. I fully understand that our swaps are more common and faster. Even at 535whp my Z has been one of the fastest at the drag strip. It just seems like fewer people who are starting the swap are actually finishing it.

 

I'm gonna say the shitty ecomony has a lot to do with it. Things aren't like they were several years ago where people had more expendable funds to play with. There's still plenty more I would love to do to my car, but my family takes priority now, and thats where i put any extra money i have.

 

The aftermerket each works fine the led for the needle is about as bight as the inside of a hogs a**

 

Mines almost done. Everything got sent out for coating, then it gets heat wrap everything. I still have to fix my tranny though... Dam it

 

Boy howdy, if this aint the truth!

 

Im still in a midst of doing mine but have all the parts about ready to go. I am aiming for June to be done. Of course picking up another car (Z) didn't help either lol.

Anyhow the wiring I did not get to delve into more. Sideways did help and thankful...just need to know the exact pinouts of the 3 wires to the chassis and to the white connector in the footwell.

Chase can make the sub harness for me but still looking into it.

Gauge wise I'm just gonna stick to the speedhut tach and also integrate some paddle shifters to the OEM steering wheel.

 

Picked up my lvl 5 t56 RPM tranny last night along with my center force twin disc clutch. Car is starting to move along. My plan is to have the engine and tranny in the car before summer is up so I can get the inner cooler piping made. Then my next goal is to have the car done before 2014 and all I have to do is get it tuned for next year. If some of you don't know I am doing a pro charged 408 stroker in my z. Once I get to a computer I'll update my build thread since I'm currently on my phone.

 

You need to get rid of that Center force twin disk and get a DXD clutch. I killed my twin disk in just a few months or normal, daily driving. Not beating on it, or doing anything stupid. If your gonna be boosted and making good power, you definitely need to talk to Dave at DXD about one of thier clutches.

 

I'll look into it. Set up made 727/630 on pump gas. I'm going to run e85, 102mm tb, and fast intake. So we will see how much more HP I gain out of that.

 

I have no near the power of you FI boys but I have an ACT twin disc, rated for 900lbft, drives great around town and it was much more easy on the wallet than some of the other twins I looked at.

 

@ CmyTailsBlink

Do you have a build thread for your LS swap etc?

I subscribed to your youtube vids ages ago and await some fresh material from you

I'm planning on going for a LSA swap, and continue my research in ensuring I've prepped everything I can before going ahead.

The plan is to commence Jan 14 after a vigorous year of saving!

 

well, my new clutch is rated for over 1500 ft/lbs of torque and has over 4400 lbs of clamping force, and has better actuation and feel than a stock clutch. Twin disks are overrated and not neccessary. Speaking of, if your not F/I, why the hell are you running a twin disk, that a bit overkill for anything an N/A build is putting down.

 

i never created a thread on here for my LS build. After my first build, I got really tired of all the douchebags on here that have nothing of value to contribute and only talk crap about everything they can. There are a bunch of forum tough guys that try to act hard and pound their chests, but don't have the ***** to actaully say some of their **** to someone in person. I stopped even getting on the forums because it was a waste of time. Also, even after I made over 600rwhp on a single turbo, and stock heads people still talked **** about the build, and how STS sucks and can't make power, theres tons of turbo lag, and theres gotta be pressure drop blah blah blah. A bunch of internet know it alls that have no experience with anything they are talking about. These last few weeks have been the first time i've gotten on here in years, and that really only out of sheer bordom sitting in Afg.
As far as new vids, I've been deployed since Sep, but right before that I loaded a few new burnout videos. I'll be getting back home soon, and I will be heading to ZdayZ, where I'm sure there will be some new videos made. I have a few new additions that I will be showing off, and I have a surprise worked out with Bryan, so it should be fun.

This isn't specifically about my Z, but I get a little feature at the end.
https://vimeo.com/56601838

If you have any questions about doing an LS swap, just hit me up, i'll try to help you out as best I can.

 

not trying to derail so sorry i did read some of your thread and it was a bit excessive but kinda hard to argue that the setup even though it does make the power takes longer to do so and does have pressure drop vs if it was up front thats just the laws of science. sure it can make the power its just gotta work a little harder to do it.

for heads people talked all the time about 500 being the limit but i had no issues making 600/600 on stock heads and cams prob coulda easily hit 700 if clutch wasnt slipping i think people just dont understand exactly what your doing when you put bigger cams in and how it really affects the engine.

a more on topic post though, how do you run your exhaust with your setup? simply straight dump out the turbos or do you run mufflers/resonators in front of the turbo? as it comes time for me to get out im heavily considering getting out and grabbing a g35 for the wife to do a low boost turbo lsx swap for more of a street friendly demo vs my ***** to the wall z lol

 

CMYtailsblink,

Good build you got there. I remember seeing your ride on YouTube awhile back. Rearmounts are a good setup as long as you know how to apply it and you did it well.

Anyhow, the biggest thing I've come across personally being almost a dark secret is the actual wiring of the LSX harness into the the needed engine/body harness for the z/g chassis. Meaning getting the tach/other gauges to work accordingly. I'm sure I can get into it over the next few weeks but a little "heads up" won't hurt. Care to share how your set up is done?

just a tad on my setup...

Fuel system I am going with a walbro intank to a Radium surge tank with dual walbro 400/e85 pumps. 2nd pump will be activated after 15psi with a hobbs switch.

I was really debating on what tranny, I ended up going with a Stage V 4l80e and optishift controller for paddle shifting. Rear will be quaife 3.3fd will probably do a custom Drexler unit.

Suspension I'm all bushed out with whiteline/SPL, all arms/links/rods are SPL. Coilovers just gonna run BCs for now.

As for the twin setup, decided on twin gt35r turbos.
Want to stick with cast manifolds for longevity. Everything will be heat wrapped, it really does wonders.

Anyhow over then next couple months I'll be updating here since I'll have time to work on it finally after a year of it being disassembled.

 

Completely incorrect!! Again, and i'm not trying to be a d!ck, but you obviously don't know what your talking about (when it comes to rear mounts). It does not take longer to make the power, nor is there a pressure drop, if you set the system up correctly. I made full boost by just under 4k rpms. And, before you try to argue that there are kits that were making full boost by 3k, those kits "full boost" was when they are set to make 8psi. I was hitting 18-21 lbs. As far as the pressure drop, how do you figure thats theres pressure drop? Because theres a long length of piping? Once the boost is made, the pressure is there throughout the entire piping......how can one end have say 21 lbs, and the other side have less? Also, if you size the charge air piping correctly, and don't try to use 4" pipes, you will make boost, and hold it, quickly.

AAAANNNNNNYYYYY way, to answer your exhaust question, No mufflers or anything prior to the turbos. In my current set up, my exhaust is designed to use the Venturi effect to help evacuate all the spent exhaust from behind the turbos, reducing back pressure, and helping them spool faster. My center 2 pipes always see exhaust, and when my wastegates open, all four pipes are dumping exhaust. On a Vq rear mount setup, i highly recomment at least a resonator before the turbo's, otherwise the sound will be terrible. Originally i did not have a resonator in there on my VQ build, and it sounded like a pack of andry hondas rolling down the street.

 

F*ck. I wrote you a long *** reply, and then it didn't post, so hear goes again.

For my harness, Bobby (owner of CIN motorsports and master fabricator of my set up) laid out the gm harness, and next to it the Nissan harness. He then went wire by wire and paired up all the pieces that talked to each other. If the wires served no purpose, they were removed. Thats my my CEL is on, there are too many things removed from the harness that the ECU wants to see. The only thing that didn't mach up, and work in the car, was the Tach, because GM uses one reference signal for the tach, and Nissan uses a difference reference signal. My boost controller acts as my tach.

For your set up, Stay away from warlboro. I "upgraded" my fuel pumps with two of those, and they both failed within a few months. Contacted Deatschwerks and got 2 of their pumps, and Holy monkey nuts, those things are beasts. They were so strong that I had to pull the fuse on one pump because I had so much fuel pressure i was super rich. Went and got a retune with both pumps going, and I haven't had any issues since. They've been in the car for like 2 years now.

Quaife rear diff, best one out there if ya ask me. Thats what I have, and my god that thing makes getting loose so much fun.

I'm running the BC's on my car and I love them. I have heavier springs though from what comes in the kit for the Z. You might want to look into doing the same. Pretty cheap upgrade.

Don't heat wrap, heat coat. I will protect the system so much better, and it will maintain more heat in the exhaust all the way back to the turbos. Its not cheap, but its fair superior to wrap.

I think thats about it. Let me know if i can hell ya out with anything else.

Nick

 

actually i do, a turbo spools based on heat and velocity, at the rear of the car temps drop which in turn causes velocity to drop, the molecules are less excited with less heat thats why the turbo of the same size spools slower the further back it goes(and has been WELL documented many platforms over countless times) this is also why people pick up 200-400 rpms ceramic coating/heat wrapping the exhaust with turbo kits. on top of that you have longer charge piping resulting in more pressure drop and also longer spool due to taking longer to fill the charge pipes, more area as well as more distance between the motor and the pistons. you can claim im wrong all you want but the fact is your setup isnt magical, it has no way to defy the laws of physics and thermodynamics sorry to break it to you. results are the other option if you wanna look at that the gt67 turbo is equivilant to the 6765 precision except the billet wheel(which does nothing until 28+ psi of boost). with which a midmount is spooling 50 ft lbs of torque more then your vq setup 500 rpms sooner with a MUCH larger exhuast housing at a couple lbs of boost less and making about the same hp despite 100 hp drops from clutch slip. i would expect similar gains if it where possible to mount that turbo right off the exhuast valves like in a 2jz or rb setup and also why twins of the same compressor/exhuast flow rates and wheels sizes will spool quicker even at higher boost.

like i said it can make power but the facts are there it does take longer to make the power, your own setup proves that, you made peak boost by 4k cool, at less boost pressure im making far more power(im guessing the 4k is with the smaller turbine housing which still isnt impressive since my much much larger turbine housing was doing 20 psi at the same place with a lower compression ratio, even with cams yours should have came on far sooner)

hate to say it but its very hard for a guy to argue science based on his 2 experiences with different engines and what his shops tell him vs cold hard science and someone who actually does it himself. theres a reason intercoolers have pressure drop, temp being a primary one, as the air cools it trys to reexpand resulting in a slight pressure drop, how much? depends on the setup, reports on the sts system are around 3/4 psi drop from the extra piping(even by sts's own words) however some people have experienced as much as 1.5 psi, thats in additon to the drop from the intercooler.

but like i said its not that it cant make power, simply the system has to work a little harder to do it, denying that is denying the countless dynos as well as science itself. its not a insult to the kit(although plenty have had issues with the pump sts really should swap that out) or any of your shops its just facts.


im unsure what you mean by the venturi effect? as in you have a purposeful bottle neck in the exhaust after the turbos? thats bad depending where it is its gona kill spool, it might be better then what you had before but definitely not optimal. 15 degree cone for 18 inchs off the turbo is what will result in the minimum spool time and max power, the exhaust is spinning from the turbo and travels along the walls of the tube, anything other then the cone reduces the effeciency and causes some of the exhaust to try and force itself through the center of the tubing costing spool. if its after 18 inchs it dosnt matter as much since the airflow has straightened out by then and slowed way down.

i have a open dump on my vq after the turbo, its quieter then the straight pipes but still ridiculous i could only imagine a ls series even with twins lol
is there even room for mufflers or would the turbos have to be moved up? possibly something like the aero turbine mufflers? the 4 inch i just picked up isnt too awful big im thinking 2x of those with 2x resonator preturbo would be a good combo for a more wife friendly setup if she goes that way(between that and a mustang atm....)

 

Jerry, I'm having a hard time understanding the first part of your response. Learn me some info, as I am contemplating ceramic coating my exhaust manifold, turbine manifold and downpipes. Are you saying that lower temperature causes the turbine to spool slower? By this, meaning if I coat these parts to cool down the temps, I may lose some boost at lower rpms?
If that's the case I may not coat anything, I'm trying to make boost quicker and longer.

 

lower exhaust temps do indeed cause you to loose spool since the exhaust is loosing energy however you are misunderstanding slightly, heat wrapping and ceramic coatings cool OUTSIDE the pipes. they do that by acting like insulation making it more difficult for the heat from the exhuast to escape through the piping meaning the exhaust itself retains more heat.

so basically no coating/wrap means hotter temps outside the pipe, less heat inside, coating/wrap(i do both) means less temp outside the pipe but more inside meaning more of the energy is transferred to the turbine wheel. its just like insulating your house to keep heat in during the winter, you want more heat in the exhaust(but not too much, around 1600 degrees for the exhaust) and less in the intake, coating and wraps help with both especially if the turbo is in the engine bay

its not going to do much for keeping the power longer but it helps it happen faster are you running it on a lsx swap or the vq? you could pm me what your goals are and i can give you rough ideas. i can tell you my setup hits hard and fast even on low boost(20 psi) to the point im looking at alternative suspension options for better traction at higher power levels as well as bigger tires inside the stock body.