The Official LS Swap Info/Questions Thread
HAHAH yeah we all wanted it to only be $10k. If you're looking for cheap 'go fast' just buy a corvette. I'm not a corvette person per say but you get a lot for your money. I have at least 4 people I go lapping or race with that have just given in and bought one. I hate to admit it but I'm tempted myself. Maybe once I crash the Z and it burns to the ground.
I understand completely!!! THats the main reason bc of the passion I have for the Z im just DONE with the power. I almost feel im to old bc all the local ricer teenagers that have them. But im doing the math of what I have now and what I could sell the counter cost of Ls. Then I think if im going in mine as well go LS2 bc of the extra power. Ls1s are quick bt not uber fast. Headers and exhaust 2500 easy. engine 400$. Trans with clutch flywheel 1k. Then AGAIN take EVERYTHING off wheels suspension sell all turn car stock trade in for around 8k towards a new SRT8 idkwtf to do. Z is paid off which is nice but done with this power. EVEN though i drive 10 miles a day to work lol
I understand completely!!! THats the main reason bc of the passion I have for the Z im just DONE with the power. I almost feel im to old bc all the local ricer teenagers that have them. But im doing the math of what I have now and what I could sell the counter cost of Ls. Then I think if im going in mine as well go LS2 bc of the extra power. Ls1s are quick bt not uber fast. Headers and exhaust 2500 easy. engine 400$. Trans with clutch flywheel 1k. Then AGAIN take EVERYTHING off wheels suspension sell all turn car stock trade in for around 8k towards a new SRT8 idkwtf to do. Z is paid off which is nice but done with this power. EVEN though i drive 10 miles a day to work lol
When comparing an LS1 to an LS2 I would take into consideration the money saved by purchasing and LS1 and then putting that towards mods like intake and cam.
Here are my 2 cents for you 2004, I sold my 350z for a challenger r/t with a manual, yes it is a heavy ****, BUT! It does have an IRS, handles pretty well for a stock suspension, and the 5.7 has a healthy amount of power, in about every test ever done comparing the challenger to the mustang and camero it has lost, but I bought it to have a stick, 2 door fit 3 kids in the back, and a V8, I even get better gas mileage than my 350z. I haven't gone mod crazy, I just made an intake, put on a JBA cat back and did a skip shift eliminator. I really love the car and even though it wasn't as nimble as my 350z on coilovers and about every suspension peice installed (I don't remember how it handled on a stock suspension) and it isn't as fast as my built N/A V6, but it is a heavy **** too... I will let you know how I like long tubes, mid pipes a tune and possibly a cam feels when I get there this summer, but this car is my DD just as my 350z was (just way more reliable) if you chose the srt8, it is a good power jump, a better suspension, brembo brakes and super nice interior. What ever you decide I hope you the best, PM me if you want to know more.
Last edited by Classy; May 30, 2013 at 03:28 PM.
I get a little grumpy with myself for having done this swap, then I goto the race track, win my class and then fall in love with this car all over again. The bottom line is the Z chassis is amazing, with a decent amount of power and a little 'know how' it's simply ridiculous at the track.
Z fever price is also you provide your our engine an Trans. I think right now I'm up to about $17k with the fully built engine/ Trans/ an turbo setup. You can do it on a budget but ya gotta be good at findif deals. I was doing good with mine until I had to built my Trans and while I was at throwing the turbo in.
I know this was stated this in an older post:
"All you have to do is retro fit the stock Z oil pressure sensor and coolant sensor to the LS motor and install an aftermarket tachometer such as the Speedhut gauge and you are good to go. Wire the LS motor up with the stock GM harness and ECU and call it done. If you use an aftermarket tachometer, there is nothing about an LS swap that requires the Nissan and GM electronics to communicate. "
Is there an actual break down that someone has of the wiring? Not using a standalone.
Is it possible to have the Z running on just the Ls ecu. So the Z ecu doesn't even have to be equipped? So running the car with every sensor including evap hooked up on the motor and working properly as if it were a stock Ls and only have to disable the vats system on the Ls ecu. Will the obd2 diagnostic port still work, and the car have no check engine lights? I don't mind the speedhut tach and the ac issues.
"All you have to do is retro fit the stock Z oil pressure sensor and coolant sensor to the LS motor and install an aftermarket tachometer such as the Speedhut gauge and you are good to go. Wire the LS motor up with the stock GM harness and ECU and call it done. If you use an aftermarket tachometer, there is nothing about an LS swap that requires the Nissan and GM electronics to communicate. "
Is there an actual break down that someone has of the wiring? Not using a standalone.
Is it possible to have the Z running on just the Ls ecu. So the Z ecu doesn't even have to be equipped? So running the car with every sensor including evap hooked up on the motor and working properly as if it were a stock Ls and only have to disable the vats system on the Ls ecu. Will the obd2 diagnostic port still work, and the car have no check engine lights? I don't mind the speedhut tach and the ac issues.
I know this was stated this in an older post:
"All you have to do is retro fit the stock Z oil pressure sensor and coolant sensor to the LS motor and install an aftermarket tachometer such as the Speedhut gauge and you are good to go. Wire the LS motor up with the stock GM harness and ECU and call it done. If you use an aftermarket tachometer, there is nothing about an LS swap that requires the Nissan and GM electronics to communicate. "
Is there an actual break down that someone has of the wiring? Not using a standalone.
Is it possible to have the Z running on just the Ls ecu. So the Z ecu doesn't even have to be equipped? So running the car with every sensor including evap hooked up on the motor and working properly as if it were a stock Ls and only have to disable the vats system on the Ls ecu. Will the obd2 diagnostic port still work, and the car have no check engine lights? I don't mind the speedhut tach and the ac issues.
"All you have to do is retro fit the stock Z oil pressure sensor and coolant sensor to the LS motor and install an aftermarket tachometer such as the Speedhut gauge and you are good to go. Wire the LS motor up with the stock GM harness and ECU and call it done. If you use an aftermarket tachometer, there is nothing about an LS swap that requires the Nissan and GM electronics to communicate. "
Is there an actual break down that someone has of the wiring? Not using a standalone.
Is it possible to have the Z running on just the Ls ecu. So the Z ecu doesn't even have to be equipped? So running the car with every sensor including evap hooked up on the motor and working properly as if it were a stock Ls and only have to disable the vats system on the Ls ecu. Will the obd2 diagnostic port still work, and the car have no check engine lights? I don't mind the speedhut tach and the ac issues.
Thx Quamen. On another note, since I haven't seen the wiring breakdown involved in doing this swap. What exactly are companies like sikky's wiring service merging together. Is there a diagram of the wire breakdown using both Ls and Vq ecu's? Or even a how-to on the wiring aspect? I know you mentioned it being basic and all, but from all the reading I've done it seems like a good number of people still ask about the wiring. And there's no real breakdown of it...
Thx Quamen. On another note, since I haven't seen the wiring breakdown involved in doing this swap. What exactly are companies like sikky's wiring service merging together. Is there a diagram of the wire breakdown using both Ls and Vq ecu's? Or even a how-to on the wiring aspect? I know you mentioned it being basic and all, but from all the reading I've done it seems like a good number of people still ask about the wiring. And there's no real breakdown of it...
Well my swap has officially just started.
My goals: A fast road race car. Those that already know me know my Z was pretty quick and very light. So this is going to be a very minimal fluff build. Tach, oil and water sensors, AFR gauge, that's about it. While we are at it we are going to convert the car to RHD, since there is not much left other than a rack, why not.
Things I currently have:
LS3 - stock
T101 tranny
DXD clutch/flywheel
SFI bell housing
Brew-haha's old chase bay harness
Things I'm fairly certain on:
Tilton 72-602 brake/clutch pedal
Canton 12-270A oil pan
Dry Sump pump and accessories
DSS drive shaft
Things I need help with:
gas pedal (cable)
I have a lead on a RHD Z33 steering rack, but was considering a manual RHD or MR2 RHD rack.
My goals: A fast road race car. Those that already know me know my Z was pretty quick and very light. So this is going to be a very minimal fluff build. Tach, oil and water sensors, AFR gauge, that's about it. While we are at it we are going to convert the car to RHD, since there is not much left other than a rack, why not.
Things I currently have:
LS3 - stock
T101 tranny
DXD clutch/flywheel
SFI bell housing
Brew-haha's old chase bay harness
Things I'm fairly certain on:
Tilton 72-602 brake/clutch pedal
Canton 12-270A oil pan
Dry Sump pump and accessories
DSS drive shaft
Things I need help with:
gas pedal (cable)
I have a lead on a RHD Z33 steering rack, but was considering a manual RHD or MR2 RHD rack.



