The Official LS Swap Info/Questions Thread
Just a heads up that some of the connections for sensors on page one will not work for the LS2. Here are a few links to some great wiring diagrams with pics:
http://www.ls2.com/forums/showthread.php?t=823632 See post #2
http://www.hotrodlane.cc/PDFFILES/ls...nessSquire.pdf
http://www.ls2.com/forums/showthread.php?t=823632 See post #2
http://www.hotrodlane.cc/PDFFILES/ls...nessSquire.pdf
Hey everyone. I just started a page on facebook called "Z33Art". Please search for it and like it if you get the chance! I am trying to use the page to promote not only my own car, but also the cars of many other people such as those doing this swap right now. Please feel free to PM me links to photos you would like me to add to the albums on the page.
Need some input. What did the LS2 guys do as far as routing the power brakes vacuum line? LS1 may be the same here. Its the large fitting right behind the manifold and the stock Nissan connection is on the passenger side by the battery. Thanks!!
Not sure whats its worth but I built my LS2 and got 475 at the wheels and still could get more if not for fuel issue.
LS2 / LS6 Stage 2.5 243 heads / L4 Cam / Sikky Kit / Borla Exhaust. 475 RWHP/420 Torq.
You can easily reach 500 RWHP with a LS2 and a great tune. Tuning is key with these motors. Anyone running a swap setup I would run a relay from the GM PCM to power the 255 fuel pump. Also for the AC set, I ran a relay coming from the fan switch to pwer a pressure switch on my AC line that controls the AC compressor. By this setup I am able to turn my ac on like I would stock and it will still cut off at the correct pressure without me having to hit a switch. The only problem I'm still having is the rad cooling my system. I just ordered a dual pass rad with custom fab shroud for my two fans. Can't get the temp under 220*. Will have new parts weds. The LS2 motor Pistons are good up to around 580 HP, Crank 900 HP, Rods 580 as well. I'm sure you could get more out of it, this is just what I got out of one of my GM books.
I had the same issue with sikky deleting my check engine light from GM computer and my AC line.
LS2 / LS6 Stage 2.5 243 heads / L4 Cam / Sikky Kit / Borla Exhaust. 475 RWHP/420 Torq.
You can easily reach 500 RWHP with a LS2 and a great tune. Tuning is key with these motors. Anyone running a swap setup I would run a relay from the GM PCM to power the 255 fuel pump. Also for the AC set, I ran a relay coming from the fan switch to pwer a pressure switch on my AC line that controls the AC compressor. By this setup I am able to turn my ac on like I would stock and it will still cut off at the correct pressure without me having to hit a switch. The only problem I'm still having is the rad cooling my system. I just ordered a dual pass rad with custom fab shroud for my two fans. Can't get the temp under 220*. Will have new parts weds. The LS2 motor Pistons are good up to around 580 HP, Crank 900 HP, Rods 580 as well. I'm sure you could get more out of it, this is just what I got out of one of my GM books.
I had the same issue with sikky deleting my check engine light from GM computer and my AC line.
You have to run Sikky/Hinson. Even the shorties don't fit. It is possible that the StainlessWorks forward turbo headers might fit if your doing a turbo without things like AC.
I tried a test fit tonight with my ls2 and the sikky mounts. Has anyone done this with B&B 1/2" valvecover spacers? My pass. side valve cover is hitting the firewall and I'm not even close yet but I have the spacers to clear the Jesel shaftmount rockers.
Also, an initial measurement shows that I am off about 9" from my T56 mag shifter to the center of the console/boot. Any clever ideas on offset shifters? The sikky shifter will not fit the T56 magnum....booo!
Also, an initial measurement shows that I am off about 9" from my T56 mag shifter to the center of the console/boot. Any clever ideas on offset shifters? The sikky shifter will not fit the T56 magnum....booo!
I dont know if this has been posted yet, Im in the process of building an ls from scratch.
Im doing a 383 stroker / 6.3l
There are many cost effective solutions to doing this swap than what most people are doing with a straight LS2 block or ls1..
Honestly if you were to buy a full dropout combination (tranny/motor) youre looking at 4k.. to be at 300-400hp
You can find lq9/4 blocks that are 6.0l to start with. Ive seen many of these blocks go for cheap. If you are interested in the realm of building your own motor its not too bad and you will spend a just little more and definately more time for more power.
Im shooting for 500 all motor. My list so far on the things I have bought. I have a thread started on g35driver but I am going to redo it when I actually start the build process.
- 5.3 Iron block bored to 3.905 - $600
- 383 rotating assembly plus balancing (4.00 crank, 6.125 rods, 3.905 pistons)- $2600
These are for forged parts. Will handle 900hp np.
- 242/252 112lsa cam <--- screamer $300
- 241 cylinder heads - $200
- cam bearings - $40
- rod/main bearings - $140
- double roller comp cam timing chain - 120$
- rear and timing cover - $40
Im practically done with the longblock and im at under 4k so far. Just a thought for those wanting to be "one" with their motor through the entire process.
Im doing a 383 stroker / 6.3l
There are many cost effective solutions to doing this swap than what most people are doing with a straight LS2 block or ls1..
Honestly if you were to buy a full dropout combination (tranny/motor) youre looking at 4k.. to be at 300-400hp
You can find lq9/4 blocks that are 6.0l to start with. Ive seen many of these blocks go for cheap. If you are interested in the realm of building your own motor its not too bad and you will spend a just little more and definately more time for more power.
Im shooting for 500 all motor. My list so far on the things I have bought. I have a thread started on g35driver but I am going to redo it when I actually start the build process.
- 5.3 Iron block bored to 3.905 - $600
- 383 rotating assembly plus balancing (4.00 crank, 6.125 rods, 3.905 pistons)- $2600
These are for forged parts. Will handle 900hp np.
- 242/252 112lsa cam <--- screamer $300
- 241 cylinder heads - $200
- cam bearings - $40
- rod/main bearings - $140
- double roller comp cam timing chain - 120$
- rear and timing cover - $40
Im practically done with the longblock and im at under 4k so far. Just a thought for those wanting to be "one" with their motor through the entire process.
Last edited by Jackus; Aug 29, 2011 at 11:30 AM.
I dont know if this has been posted yet, Im in the process of building an ls from scratch.
Im doing a 383 stroker / 6.3l
There are many cost effective solutions to doing this swap than what most people are doing with a straight LS2 block or ls1..
Honestly if you were to buy a full dropout combination (tranny/motor) youre looking at 4k.. to be at 300-400hp
You can find lq9/4 blocks that are 6.0l to start with. Ive seen many of these blocks go for cheap. If you are interested in the realm of building your own motor its not too bad and you will spend a just little more and definately more time for more power.
Im shooting for 500 all motor. My list so far on the things I have bought. I have a thread started on g35driver but I am going to redo it when I actually start the build process.
- 5.3 Iron block bored to 3.905 - $600
- 383 rotating assembly plus balancing (4.00 crank, 6.125 rods, 3.905 pistons)- $2600
These are for forged parts. Will handle 900hp np.
- 242/252 112lsa cam <--- screamer $300
- 241 cylinder heads - $200
- cam bearings - $40
- rod/main bearings - $140
- double roller comp cam timing chain - 120$
- rear and timing cover - $40
Im practically done with the longblock and im at under 4k so far. Just a thought for those wanting to be "one" with their motor through the entire process.
Im doing a 383 stroker / 6.3l
There are many cost effective solutions to doing this swap than what most people are doing with a straight LS2 block or ls1..
Honestly if you were to buy a full dropout combination (tranny/motor) youre looking at 4k.. to be at 300-400hp
You can find lq9/4 blocks that are 6.0l to start with. Ive seen many of these blocks go for cheap. If you are interested in the realm of building your own motor its not too bad and you will spend a just little more and definately more time for more power.
Im shooting for 500 all motor. My list so far on the things I have bought. I have a thread started on g35driver but I am going to redo it when I actually start the build process.
- 5.3 Iron block bored to 3.905 - $600
- 383 rotating assembly plus balancing (4.00 crank, 6.125 rods, 3.905 pistons)- $2600
These are for forged parts. Will handle 900hp np.
- 242/252 112lsa cam <--- screamer $300
- 241 cylinder heads - $200
- cam bearings - $40
- rod/main bearings - $140
- double roller comp cam timing chain - 120$
- rear and timing cover - $40
Im practically done with the longblock and im at under 4k so far. Just a thought for those wanting to be "one" with their motor through the entire process.
Oh im not done with parts buying. Im just running a total of what ive done so far.
the difference between 241 and 243 casting heads are blurred when you start doing cnc work. Im fully aware of the valvetrain issue as I will need something to handle .600 lift.
While yes the iron block is heavier, about 200lbs heavier its easily overlooked when you look at cost of sleeving an aluminum block or going to a larger decked block such as the lsxr. I believe in iron for that sense of mind during large boost runs.
the difference between 241 and 243 casting heads are blurred when you start doing cnc work. Im fully aware of the valvetrain issue as I will need something to handle .600 lift.
While yes the iron block is heavier, about 200lbs heavier its easily overlooked when you look at cost of sleeving an aluminum block or going to a larger decked block such as the lsxr. I believe in iron for that sense of mind during large boost runs.
Oh im not done with parts buying. Im just running a total of what ive done so far.
the difference between 241 and 243 casting heads are blurred when you start doing cnc work. Im fully aware of the valvetrain issue as I will need something to handle .600 lift.
While yes the iron block is heavier, about 200lbs heavier its easily overlooked when you look at cost of sleeving an aluminum block or going to a larger decked block such as the lsxr. I believe in iron for that sense of mind during large boost runs.
the difference between 241 and 243 casting heads are blurred when you start doing cnc work. Im fully aware of the valvetrain issue as I will need something to handle .600 lift.
While yes the iron block is heavier, about 200lbs heavier its easily overlooked when you look at cost of sleeving an aluminum block or going to a larger decked block such as the lsxr. I believe in iron for that sense of mind during large boost runs.
Well just started my build. Check it out if you are interested.
http://g35driver.com/forums/ohio-g-c...ls1-build.html
http://g35driver.com/forums/ohio-g-c...ls1-build.html




- and I'm not trying to F*&# anyone I know from high school