Less weight = more power; Have you lightened your Z?
#181
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http://www.a-t-s-usa.com/ats-product...ch-table.shtml
Multiply kg by 2.205 to get lbs.
I like ATS 9" clutch and flywheel combo. With twin-clutch setup, pedal pressure is same (16), clamping force is 1100kg and is able to handle up to 700 crank HP.
Saves 20lbs off weight, most of it rotational (flywheel is ~10lbs, stock ~28lbs).
Multiply kg by 2.205 to get lbs.
I like ATS 9" clutch and flywheel combo. With twin-clutch setup, pedal pressure is same (16), clamping force is 1100kg and is able to handle up to 700 crank HP.
Saves 20lbs off weight, most of it rotational (flywheel is ~10lbs, stock ~28lbs).
#182
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Originally posted by UsafaRice
Speaking of batteries, how is the PC545 working for you? Mine doesn't have problems during driving or anything, but I'm kinda concerned if I had to restart the car 3 or 4 times in a short period.
Speaking of batteries, how is the PC545 working for you? Mine doesn't have problems during driving or anything, but I'm kinda concerned if I had to restart the car 3 or 4 times in a short period.
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Speaking of auto-X, Keep in mind, one of the most important factors, even above lightening the car is to focus on driver performance.
In my last two auto-xs , my best times were with a 200 pound passenger. Lightening the car can be very important, but the most effective and least expensive factor is to work on your own performance.
I know we all think that we are "awesome" drivers, but we all could sharpen our skills
Just my .02
In my last two auto-xs , my best times were with a 200 pound passenger. Lightening the car can be very important, but the most effective and least expensive factor is to work on your own performance.
I know we all think that we are "awesome" drivers, but we all could sharpen our skills
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Just my .02
#185
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HAHAHAHA. That's the best way to get the z permanently lighter. I weighed 190 lbs a few weeks ago. I had a race coming up, so I junked my spare, ditched the hood, got a borla, and went bulemic for 3 weeks.
I now weigh in at 82lbs, but damn my z hauls ***.
I now weigh in at 82lbs, but damn my z hauls ***.
Originally posted by rouxeny
I lost 30 lbs on the Atkins diet.
I lost 30 lbs on the Atkins diet.
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Hey, anyone have any experience with the APS TT? That thing is supposed to do 427rwhp. DAMN!
Go to 350ztech, and home page has a link to some videos. I got a chubby watching that. car hauls booty.
Go to 350ztech, and home page has a link to some videos. I got a chubby watching that. car hauls booty.
Originally posted by jng1226
You've already got several options to go against M3's, Corvettes, etc.:
Vortech, ATI, PE, Greddy and several more coming. By 2006 you will probably be out of factory warranty (or close to it). Instead of taking the depreciation hit trading your "old" Z in on the latest greatest, take the money that you would put into the new car (or less) and put it into a proven FI solution.
Vortechs and Greddy TTs are regularly putting out 350-380 rwhp, more if you do intake and exhaust mods. I doubt that whatever the factory FI VQ35 Nissan puts out eventually, the 1st Gen won't do that for less than $45K.
You've already got several options to go against M3's, Corvettes, etc.:
Vortech, ATI, PE, Greddy and several more coming. By 2006 you will probably be out of factory warranty (or close to it). Instead of taking the depreciation hit trading your "old" Z in on the latest greatest, take the money that you would put into the new car (or less) and put it into a proven FI solution.
Vortechs and Greddy TTs are regularly putting out 350-380 rwhp, more if you do intake and exhaust mods. I doubt that whatever the factory FI VQ35 Nissan puts out eventually, the 1st Gen won't do that for less than $45K.
#187
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Well, I just picked up a new copy of Option over here. They have a full article on the Amuse stuff. I`ll get everything translated and scanned in after I return to America.
Here`s a teaser, the doors look fully stock and the pair saves 62 pounds.
Here`s a teaser, the doors look fully stock and the pair saves 62 pounds.
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How much weight could I expect to save if I eliminated the A/C, and the passenger seat? Probably pointless if I keep the hefty stereo in there.
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Originally posted by aron
How much weight could I expect to save if I eliminated the A/C, and the passenger seat? Probably pointless if I keep the hefty stereo in there.
How much weight could I expect to save if I eliminated the A/C, and the passenger seat? Probably pointless if I keep the hefty stereo in there.
Better, spare + jack are 40 lbs
I've got about 150 lbs out of mine right now -37 more from the seat when racing and minus about 80 lbs of gas at the 1/4 mile track.
Mods are somewhere in this one: https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....hreadid=106470
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im gonna try to save weight in my Z. hell, thats why i went with the Base model. rated at a bit over 3100 lbs i believe. i feel leather, Navi, Bose, etc is just luxuries...the Z IS NOT a luxury car. traction control and VDC is just there to save people who dont know how to drive in sketchy situations...no offense to anyone on here though. ive just never been a fan of traction control gadgets. takes away the joy of learning how to control your car.
but like i said, i plan on loosing some weight, but i wont go out of my way to do it. my first upgrade is wheels, of course this upgrade is for looks, but if you pick the right kind, you can save a lot of wieght in rotating mass. i also want to do exhaust, for performance and sound....but you go with a single canister system, it will still look good, and you can end up loosing ~20lbs. then there is the tilton flywheel/clutch...GREAT performance mod...and also saves a lot of weight at 40lbs. hell, there is your 100 lbs weight savings right there in 3 mods, PLUS youre gaining power in every mod. then you've got other mods like lightweight batteries, carbon fiber hoods/hatch/bumpers, racing seats, etc. the options are endless...you just gotta be smart about your mods. my goal is to get in the 260-270 whp range with the car weighing in at ~3100 lbs with me in it. do the math and thats a quick car street car.
but like i said, i plan on loosing some weight, but i wont go out of my way to do it. my first upgrade is wheels, of course this upgrade is for looks, but if you pick the right kind, you can save a lot of wieght in rotating mass. i also want to do exhaust, for performance and sound....but you go with a single canister system, it will still look good, and you can end up loosing ~20lbs. then there is the tilton flywheel/clutch...GREAT performance mod...and also saves a lot of weight at 40lbs. hell, there is your 100 lbs weight savings right there in 3 mods, PLUS youre gaining power in every mod. then you've got other mods like lightweight batteries, carbon fiber hoods/hatch/bumpers, racing seats, etc. the options are endless...you just gotta be smart about your mods. my goal is to get in the 260-270 whp range with the car weighing in at ~3100 lbs with me in it. do the math and thats a quick car street car.
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17" wheels and lightweight tires (e.g. toyo) + lightweight flywheel/clutch are going to net significantly higher performance gains than reducing a static mass like CF hatches, hoods, fenders, batteries, glass, mirrors, exhaust etc.
#195
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forgive my stupid question
what is the weight of UR pulley set v.s stock pulley...a set of 3
i read earlier pulley is 8lb...i was wondering if thats the crank pulley or the set???
what is the weight of UR pulley set v.s stock pulley...a set of 3
i read earlier pulley is 8lb...i was wondering if thats the crank pulley or the set???
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