i switched back to the original **** for my Z, but the **** doesnt feel like its very secure if the shifting becomes intense

just wondering if i could go to the dealer and is it possible for them to apply something on it to make it more tight and secure? or is there something u can buy from home depot or something

 

You need thread lock, a liquid material that you can get at the dealership. Just tell them your **** is loose. Or you can go to KMart, WalMart, etc.

 

ah ic
does this problem usually only happen to oem *****?
im guessing if i get another aftermarket **** then its threading would be brand new and be tight when i twist it on right?

 

There is no problem. Do you know why it was a pain in the *** to take that stock **** off? Its because you had to "break" the thread lock... kinda like glue on the treads... technically, you're supposed to apply thread lock on the treads when you replace your ****, not tighten it all the way until you can't tighten it no more, but granted, you don't want any gap between the **** and the boot.

If you still can't figure it out, download the technical manual and read the section about **** removal and installation.

 

the OEM **** doesnt really tighten back up... you need to just apply some thread locker as mentioned above...

doesnt happen with aftermarket ****'s which you can torque down more...

 

Okay, this is what it says in the service manual taken from the 'Shift Control' section MT-17.

12. Apply locking sealant to control lever threads, install shift ****.
Caution: Remove the remaining adhesive on control lever and shift **** threads.
13. Put the shift **** in the correct position as the following indicates.
ed. (refers to figure, you can ignore this).
a. When tightening shift knb, if shift **** position is the correct postion a less than 1/2 rotation from starting resistance, tighten 1 more rotation and set the correct position again.
b. If shift **** position is the correct position more than 1/2 rotation from starting resistance, tighten and set the correct position.
Caution: Do not adjust the **** with loosing.
After adjusting to regular position, until 30 minute passes since a locking sealant because stiff. Do not operate the shift intensely such as screwing or turning the shift **** to opposite direction.

When the manual refers to "locking sealant," it refers to the thread lock I was talking about. According to the manual, you're supposed to use Medium strength Thread locking sealant (blue), Nissan North America part no. 999MP-AM005P... or an aftermarket equivalent such as Permatex 24200, 24206, 24240, 24283, and 09178... or Three Bond 1322, 1322N, etc...

And yes, the factory service manual that your Nissan tecnician has is written in "Engrish" and it's not that I typed that wrong or my English is bad... it's taken word for word from the official Nissan Service Manual.

So here it is again, in plain English this time. Buy thread lock that's refered to above, and apply to the threads on the shifter shaft. If you start feeling resistance (getting tighter from contact ot boot) less than 1/2 turn to the normal **** postion, go ahead and tighten the **** to normal position and tighten it 1 more full turn to normal position again, and let the thread lock dry.

If the **** starts tightening more than 1/2 turn to normal position, just keep turning to normal position only, and let the thread lock dry.

Again, thread lock is like a glue that you put on threads, for lack of a better term, so that your **** or whatever you put on the threads such as a nut doesn't get loose. That's why it was such a ***** to take that **** off. You were basically breaking loose the glue on the threads.

Everytime you replace the ****, your'e technically supposed to use thread lock, which surprisingly, members fail to mention or don't even know about. Hence, this is why I took this 15minutes of my time to actually write this

 

 

This was exactly the info I was looking for.

I recently replaced the shift boot and ****. It's pretty annoying that the new **** keeps coming loose when changing gears.

Can someone clarify how much locktite to apply? I read in another thread that it should only be applied to the bottom 1/3 of the shifter threads.



Search feature FTMFW....

 

Just Point And Squeeze...

-j

 

Bump for answer to post # 8...

 

just apply thread loc-tite. i think its just a rull of thumb to apply to the last few threads since doing all of them is over kill. ive removed and installed the shift **** many-a-times and a dab of thread loc-tite is all you need on the last few threads.

-j

 

Cool.

Should the loctite be applied around the entire circumfrence of the bottom treads, or maybe just around a 1/4 or 1/2?

I don't ever want to have to go through the trouble of using the Vise Grip method to remove the **** if I have to in the future....

 

just run a line of locktite up the threads, when you screw on your **** it will be distributed around the entire thread.

 

BTw they have diff grades of loctite(as far as bite/grip) blue,green,red etc.

 

Will do...
Yes sir. I have tubes of both blue and red at home. I'll verify the specs listed above before applying. I'm sure it's the blue one(medium). The red is what I used on my caliper bolts...

 

I finally got around to applying loctite this Sunday. Fate would have it I didn't have the blue Permatex tread locker, but had every other kind. I headed down to the auto parts store and purchased a tube. I test tried tightening the ****, to see what position it was going to end up in. It pretty much tightened until it stopped completely. Meaning, it could not tighten anymore what so ever. Problem is, it's 180 degrees backwards. It's the Tommy Kaira ****, which is completely symetrical, so I guess I'll have to live with it.

I applied it accordingly, then tightened the ****. It should be cured today. I'll check it out this afternoon, then post tomorrow....

 

i just use teflon tape on the threads. does a good job of tightening up the threads without the permanence of loctite. feels the same when youre driving though. then again i take my shift **** off more than the normal person so to some it might not matter

 

the reason for the loctite is so you can back the shift **** a half turn and get it where you want it - then wait for the loctite to dry and harden and viola...shift **** pointed in the right direction nice and tight due to loctite...

but if its symetircal then its symetrical...
-j

 

The instructions listed in the thread, from the manual, stated not to loosen the **** to adjust it. They emphasize on tightening it to adjust it. I pretty much just follow those verbatim. But you're right, if it's symetrical, it's symetrical...

 

Sorry guys, I forgot to update this thread awhile back. I applied the loctite as directed and tightened the **** according to directions. Unfortunately, how my **** tightened, it ended up 180 degrees backwards. It really doesn't bother me too much. The **** is symetrical all the way around and it's tightened pretty snug. I let the loctite cure overnight and test drove it the next day. It is holding the **** firmly in place. I no longer have problems with it twisting.

Here are some pics I snapped before I left for work. Camera phone crappy pics...