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I agree with jhc. I just looked at my stock non-Nismo springs and the front and rear should be closer to the same length. The rears should only be about 1" longer than the fronts.
Rears are totally cut and are sadly trash. Should be close to flat on both ends and the rear should be about the same height as the front. They are the correct NISMO springs otherwise. $100 for just the front is probably worth it if you can find a rear set. Pic below not Nismo but the height and shape of the bottom end of the rear coil should be similar. Rubber end of the rear coil is the bottom.
Yeah, I think I agree that the rears are not right and probably cut as they are missing a few "loops". Why, Why, Why, do people do this to good springs?
The front looks good and worth 100 dollars from what I can see. It's a long story, but I think he and I have a deal and he is headed to the Post Office to ship. I am not in an urgent rush to get them installed by any means, so I will take the fronts for now and keep looking for the rears. Some guy on Ebay is trying to get $125.00 for one spring!
Last edited by Jim Stephens; 03-31-2020 at 11:51 AM.
Yeah, I think I agree that the rears are not right and probably cut as they are missing a few "loops". Why, Why, Why, do people do this to good springs?
I'll never understand this either. Probably the same people that do muffler deletes or plasti dip as "mods."
Just copying these part numbers in for the nismo coil springs to make it easier for me to find quickly. Also, I found these springs available on one website new. cost about $215 a piece. Are we sure that is the NISMO part number? All other sites show it discontinued.
The OEM Nismo springs on the 07-08, NOT the S-tune nismo, are significantly stiffer and won't lower the car but are also probably your most expensive option. They need to be paired with shocks that can handle a stiffer spring like the OEM nismo shocks, Koni yellow, or maybe bilstein. Any stiffer spring should also be paired with upgraded shocks.
Nissan lists them as not made any more so might be hard to find or you will need to look used.
Front spring - E4010-1A33B
Rear spring - E5020-1A33B
Last edited by Jim Stephens; 04-04-2020 at 03:22 AM.
Just copying these part numbers in for the nismo coil springs to make it easier for me to find quickly. Also, I found these springs available on one website new. cost about $215 a piece. Are we sure that is the NISMO part number? All other sites show it discontinued.
The OEM Nismo springs on the 07-08, NOT the S-tune nismo, are significantly stiffer and won't lower the car but are also probably your most expensive option. They need to be paired with shocks that can handle a stiffer spring like the OEM nismo shocks, Koni yellow, or maybe bilstein. Any stiffer spring should also be paired with upgraded shocks.
Nissan lists them as not made any more so might be hard to find or you will need to look used.
Front spring - E4010-1A33B
Rear spring - E5020-1A33B
Here's what I found, double-check me.- 54010-CF40CCoil Spring350Z; CONVERTIBLE
$210.58 $157.94
When I added it to my cart the note says "Out of stock, usually ships 2-4 days". You can try another dealer or even salvage yards as obviously springs are designed for the life of the chasis. GL!
No $hit. I paid 155 for all 4 DELIVERED. Keep looking jim
Agree 100 percent. Like I said, I am no rush. The guy from Austin sold me all four for 100 bucks. Admittedly two of them are cut. Will just keep looking for the right price for rears. I went back and forth with a guy on Ebay last night for the rears, but he wants too much.
Hey Jim,
Have you tried salvage yards? These days inventory is electronic and easy. Reason I ask- I realized after I got my BBK my spare wouldn't fit so I looked at dealers, aftermarket and also FleaBay. Prices were $285-$650. I called a salvage yard on the south side of town. Ran and picked up a Z34 spare for $80 cash.
Hey Jim,
Have you tried salvage yards? These days inventory is electronic and easy. Reason I ask- I realized after I got my BBK my spare wouldn't fit so I looked at dealers, aftermarket and also FleaBay. Prices were $285-$650. I called a salvage yard on the south side of town. Ran and picked up a Z34 spare for $80 cash.
I certainly have the time and the Internet is yielding nothing. Might as well make a few calls. Houston is a big city, could be something around.
Nice. Install is pretty straightforward other than bending the metal bracket on the end link out of the way. I have the same sways. I think it's recommended to tighten the end links with the suspension under load.
Nice. Install is pretty straightforward other than bending the metal bracket on the end link out of the way. I have the same sways. I think it's recommended to tighten the end links with the suspension under load.
From looking at other pictures, it looks like you can put the Jack stands under the suspension just inside of the lower control arm pivot point to keep it loaded? I could stack a few tires up under each wheel and load it up that way maybe. Would that damage a rim (oem V1 Rays)? I don't have ramps or wood to do it with. I could also just put it up on stands and use the jack to load up each side one at a time and torque down. That is what I did with the shocks.
Last edited by Jim Stephens; 04-12-2020 at 06:11 AM.
From looking at other pictures, it looks like you can put the Jack stands under the suspension just inside of the lower control arm pivot point to keep it loaded? I could stack a few tires up under each wheel and load it up that way maybe. Would that damage a rim (oem V1 Rays)? I don't have ramps or wood to do it with.
Ramps pay for themselves for stuff like this. When I did my swaybar I had my Z up on the ramps.
You DON'T have to bend the tabs. Just rotate them to insert the tabs into the swaybar holes. I have mine in the second hole and the tabs in the other holes.
From looking at other pictures, it looks like you can put the Jack stands under the suspension just inside of the lower control arm pivot point to keep it loaded? I could stack a few tires up under each wheel and load it up that way maybe. Would that damage a rim (oem V1 Rays)? I don't have ramps or wood to do it with. I could also just put it up on stands and use the jack to load up each side one at a time and torque down. That is what I did with the shocks.
Yes, this will work when both driver and pass side are loaded. Gl!
I am not sure where the misconception about needing to be installed under load came from. That is false. Suspension components with fixed rubber bushings (like oem or whiteline) should be tightened with arms at ride height, but swaybars are decoupled and this does not apply.
So, I will add some pics later when my son wakes up and I can get to his phone. The nice thing about nothing else to do is you can proceed at a slow pace and I just had him do the passenger side and I did the driver side in the removal and installation of the new sway bar. Nothing of note really happened, which is to say it was a pretty straightforward install. He and I agreed, compared to the valve cover project and rear differential bushing replacement, these type projects seem easy. We went with the stiffest setting as recommended in the installation manual. The manual does not mention loading up the suspension, coupled with the comment above, so we did not do it. I will say my 15 year old son's skills are getting pretty good. He started with no knowledge or ability at all when we purchased this car. This time we just talked under the car, and took turns on our respective sides taking off the bolts and then installing the new one. Really a nice day working on the car. We took it out for a short drive to test it and no issues. The car feels more "nimble" due to less body roll on a quick lane change. Has a more engaged "feel" to it than before. We went to an empty parking lot and did some zig zagging and I swear I can really feel the Michelin Pilot tires sidewalls flexing when I turn hard. We took turns trying it out, but agreed we need to get back on the AutoX course to really see how it does. Parking lot was too small to really push it well. Happy with the results as it is better, just not blown away yet by it. Once I can see the light at the end of the tunnel and it looks like we can run it on a course again, I plan to buy some good AutoX tires for my spare set of OEM Track V1 18" rims rather than running the 19" rims I currently have on.
When I look back on all the improvements we have made to the car thus far the biggest by far has been the Brembo Brakes. Just night and day difference there. The other handling improvements to date are all incremental, but certainly noticeable in nature and have been, Z1 Rear Bushing inserts, Diff Bushing Replacements, Z1 brake brace, Bilstien Shocks and now the sway bar just on the front. Obviously the track tires and smaller diameter wheels that are 10lbs lighter should show some improvements as well. I am considering putting in the adjustable camber arms as well. Just doing one thing at a time, so I can tell what it does to the handling of the car and some learning going on along the way.
I am beginning to think from the bits and pieces I have read that I should try a higher tire pressure on the Michelin's I currently have on there as one person told me the particular version of the tire I have are known to flex. I need to find a place where I can set up a few cones and just get some time in on the car. Someone told me a good learning tool is to set them up and drive a figure eight and go faster and faster to get the "feel" of the car pushed out to the limits. Seems like a good approach that can be done in a relatively small space.
It was a nice sunny day here in Texas and the air was warm, but dry, so it made for great driving with the windows down yesterday. Good finish to the day for sure.
Last edited by Jim Stephens; 04-13-2020 at 10:28 AM.
03-31-2020, 07:36 AM
