Well... I finally got to making a crate for my engine block to ship to SGP... The bottom end consists of the stock crank, Arias Pistons and Pauter Rods... and I hope the block I purchased from the junkyard is ok... if you havent seen my post as I took it apart a while ago..

My goal is 600WHP for a first timer... right now im at 355 with the Greddy kit..

Any suggestions on the bottom end or am I ok..? I want a reliable 600 horser that I dont have to worry about for at least two years (with the right tuning obviously), so i can go right to the GTR when it comes here... hehe...

For the top end im a little perplexed... my heads look like crap.. so i hope I dont have to get new ones... but anyway heres what I plan to put in them.. and heres where I need some of your knowledge... I'm going with the Tomei cams... but I have no idea what grind... I have no idea how that works out in real life.. only what it says on paper... so what do you suggest... also... is JWT good... they're cheaper.. same quality? For valves im going with the SGP 1mm oversize so i guess im getting some portwork done which is good anyway... since there is probably some rust in my heads.. Im also going with SPG's springs and Titaniam retainers... does this sound good? I have no idea...

Im also getting the ARP head studs... but do I need the NISMO metal head gasket or will the stock one work... i dont want to cut corners on this.. hopefully i can just do it once and make it my weekend fun car. I'll worry about the timing components they sell later (not much idea on that either) but does that setup sound SAFE for 600WHP or should I be doing anything else to strengthen my engine... please let me know before I start the work ... also it seems like the stock sleeves will be fine for 600 HP right? Thanks guys!

 

The stock head gasket is fine for your purposes, as are the stock sleeves.

Don't forget to read the post that Lorca put up about the Arias pistons. Make sure your machine shop notches the pistons.

Others can comment on the cams...since I know little about them

 

yeah i did read the piston post.. thanks for sending me an e-mail to sharif.. that would have been bad to miss.

What are the limits on the stock head gasket? When i was a kid and knew nothing about cars.. I would always hear about peoples head gaskets blowing.... lol... would it be a good idea to get it anyway.. or just a waste of money...

As for the top of the engine.. Im still open to suggestions as per the start of this post... hope i can get some good info. THanks!

 

To my knowledge, nobody is making a new meal head-gasket for the VQ motor yet that is the same thickness as stock. ANd given that SGP, Boulder Nissan, and others have built motors close to 700whp with the stock head gaskets leads me to think they are OK for that purposes.

If anyone actually made an aftermarket headgasket for the VQ, I would probably put one in...for the helluvit.

 

The crackshaft? what are your options...are you going to have it blueprinted to make sure it is w/in specs...i mean think about it for this hp numbers

 

You balance the crankshaft...not blueprint....at least IIRC.

 

The crankshaft is part of both a blueprinting process and the balancing process. Blueprinting, as a general term, refers to the engine as a whole however the crankshaft is carefully measured and may need slight modifications during the "blueprinting" process. Balancing is more unique to rotating assemblies. Each piston is weight matched to the lightest one in the set, the rod big and small ends are all matched and then each piston/rod combo is weighed as a whole. If the now piston/rod combo weighs any different than stockers, the crankshaft counterweights need to be adjusted accordingly. They can be shaved to decrease weight or drilled and plugged with tungsten to make them heavier. This is especially importent with internally balanced engines like the VQ

 

I'm going to get Tomei 264 cams eventually, Z1 Performance told me they would work with F/I. And the rougher idle doesn't hurt either .

 

it seems like the more power you want on the top end the more you loose on the bottom and the rougher the engine idles... is this true?