ARGGH! Still waiting on bearings!
ARGGH! Still waiting on bearings!
Man, I've been waiting on bearings for my rebuild for what seems like a lifetime! Anyone else have this problem?
The only good thing about it is that I'm using a second engine for the rebuild so at least I'm able to use my car. The waiting game is killing me though. The block is all ready to go--just those damn bearings.
--Steve
The only good thing about it is that I'm using a second engine for the rebuild so at least I'm able to use my car. The waiting game is killing me though. The block is all ready to go--just those damn bearings.
--Steve
I ordered mine last weeek from Courtesy Nisan. Everything should be at Courtesy Nissan today, and in my hands on Tues.
I know what you mean though....I am waiting for bearings and the torque plate.
Have they already bored and honed your cylinders? How about some pics Zim!
Are you going to Z-days? There should be some super fast cars there, and CP Racing is bring their mobile dyno for us to use!
I know what you mean though....I am waiting for bearings and the torque plate.
Have they already bored and honed your cylinders? How about some pics Zim!
Are you going to Z-days? There should be some super fast cars there, and CP Racing is bring their mobile dyno for us to use!
gq... So you're saying that some dealers have bearings in stock?! My builder has talked to the local Nissan dealer and also SGP Racing, I believe. It's been about 3 months of waiting, so my assumption has been that nobody in the USA has them. Am I wrong?!
Should I have them go another route to get bearings?!
--Steve
Should I have them go another route to get bearings?!
--Steve
Zimbo, the dealers dont have them in stock, but they should be availible at the various Nissan parts Distribution Centers. I will let you know by Monday if there are any delays, but I spoke to Courtesy Nissan today, and he said they should arrive today at their dealership.
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From: So Cal
try performance nissan. i was waiting for a super long time for mine as well. also i needed to get thrust washers, which would take just as long too, but performance helped get them to me faster than expected
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From: Nuclear Power
I actually walked into my local dealership parts center and ordered them. A week later I had 4 main bearings, 12 rode bearings and two thrust washers. All of these parts come from 3 warehouses throughout the country. The only possible reason it would take you longer to get a particler bearing is if it has to come from Japan. But rod bearings only come in 3 sizes and theirs only one size for the thrust bearings. Unlike the main bearings that have around 12-15 different sizes.
I actually have an extra set of rod bearings that I will sell for the price I paid if Todd doesn't need them.
I also have an extra grade 2 main bearing too.
I have eight of grade 1 and four of grade 2 rod bearings. PM if you want dibbs, I should know by early next week if I will need them or not. This extra set came from Courtesy Nissan and were a back up plan in case the local dealership plan fell through.
Ernie
I actually have an extra set of rod bearings that I will sell for the price I paid if Todd doesn't need them.
I also have an extra grade 2 main bearing too.
I have eight of grade 1 and four of grade 2 rod bearings. PM if you want dibbs, I should know by early next week if I will need them or not. This extra set came from Courtesy Nissan and were a back up plan in case the local dealership plan fell through.
Ernie
I'm going to do some leg work on this. I've asked my builder to send me the numbers from the block and crank. Once I know those I'll be doing some serious hunting.
Forgive the dumb question but what's grade 1 versus grade 2?
--Steve
Forgive the dumb question but what's grade 1 versus grade 2?
--Steve
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Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Nuclear Power
Originally posted by zimbo
I'm going to do some leg work on this. I've asked my builder to send me the numbers from the block and crank. Once I know those I'll be doing some serious hunting.
Forgive the dumb question but what's grade 1 versus grade 2?
--Steve
I'm going to do some leg work on this. I've asked my builder to send me the numbers from the block and crank. Once I know those I'll be doing some serious hunting.
Forgive the dumb question but what's grade 1 versus grade 2?
--Steve
The main bearings are a little more difficult to figure out. There is a five letter code on the crank and there is a five letter code on the block. Since you only have four main bearings....assume your crank as the letters A,B, C, D, E and you block has the letters F, G, H, I, J. Now, you skip the first letter in the crank shaft code and the last letter in the block code and match them. In my example that would be...B-F, C-G, D-H, E-I.
Now, we're almost done. Now, every dealership has a copy of a spreadsheet you need to line up the codes. Along the left hand side are the letters for the crank and across the top are the letters for the block. So, in my example I would go down the left side until I came to B and then go across until it lined up to F. Where these two cross is your main bearing grade. Like I said before, there are around 12-15 sizes, I can't remember the exact number. I have the spreadsheet at home and I will try and take a pic then post it. Or, you can stop by your local dealer and they can print it out for you. Once again, if you are polishing your crank the size might be off by a little and you might need the next size grade. This was a risk I took since I bought a new crankshaft and it wouldn't be polished.
Good post here... very helpful for those who need to know about sizing their bearings.
-Charles
-Charles
Originally posted by going deep
Rod bearing come in three different grades/sizes 0,1,2. The rod bearing sizes you need for you particler crankshaft is stamped on the pulley side with six numbers. For example, mine said 1,1,1,2,1,2,. Then double the number of rod bearings because they are sold by halves and now you have your rod bearings. However, if you are getting you crank polished or something, you run a small risk that you might end up needing a bigger size bearing. Your machine shop and/or performance shop will fit the bearings and measure them to make sure they are the right size.
The main bearings are a little more difficult to figure out. There is a five letter code on the crank and there is a five letter code on the block. Since you only have four main bearings....assume your crank as the letters A,B, C, D, E and you block has the letters F, G, H, I, J. Now, you skip the first letter in the crank shaft code and the last letter in the block code and match them. In my example that would be...B-F, C-G, D-H, E-I.
Now, we're almost done. Now, every dealership has a copy of a spreadsheet you need to line up the codes. Along the left hand side are the letters for the crank and across the top are the letters for the block. So, in my example I would go down the left side until I came to B and then go across until it lined up to F. Where these two cross is your main bearing grade. Like I said before, there are around 12-15 sizes, I can't remember the exact number. I have the spreadsheet at home and I will try and take a pic then post it. Or, you can stop by your local dealer and they can print it out for you. Once again, if you are polishing your crank the size might be off by a little and you might need the next size grade. This was a risk I took since I bought a new crankshaft and it wouldn't be polished.
Rod bearing come in three different grades/sizes 0,1,2. The rod bearing sizes you need for you particler crankshaft is stamped on the pulley side with six numbers. For example, mine said 1,1,1,2,1,2,. Then double the number of rod bearings because they are sold by halves and now you have your rod bearings. However, if you are getting you crank polished or something, you run a small risk that you might end up needing a bigger size bearing. Your machine shop and/or performance shop will fit the bearings and measure them to make sure they are the right size.
The main bearings are a little more difficult to figure out. There is a five letter code on the crank and there is a five letter code on the block. Since you only have four main bearings....assume your crank as the letters A,B, C, D, E and you block has the letters F, G, H, I, J. Now, you skip the first letter in the crank shaft code and the last letter in the block code and match them. In my example that would be...B-F, C-G, D-H, E-I.
Now, we're almost done. Now, every dealership has a copy of a spreadsheet you need to line up the codes. Along the left hand side are the letters for the crank and across the top are the letters for the block. So, in my example I would go down the left side until I came to B and then go across until it lined up to F. Where these two cross is your main bearing grade. Like I said before, there are around 12-15 sizes, I can't remember the exact number. I have the spreadsheet at home and I will try and take a pic then post it. Or, you can stop by your local dealer and they can print it out for you. Once again, if you are polishing your crank the size might be off by a little and you might need the next size grade. This was a risk I took since I bought a new crankshaft and it wouldn't be polished.
Originally posted by going deep
Rod bearing come in three different grades/sizes 0,1,2. The rod bearing sizes you need for you particler crankshaft is stamped on the pulley side with six numbers. For example, mine said 1,1,1,2,1,2,. Then double the number of rod bearings because they are sold by halves and now you have your rod bearings. However, if you are getting you crank polished or something, you run a small risk that you might end up needing a bigger size bearing. Your machine shop and/or performance shop will fit the bearings and measure them to make sure they are the right size.
The main bearings are a little more difficult to figure out. There is a five letter code on the crank and there is a five letter code on the block. Since you only have four main bearings....assume your crank as the letters A,B, C, D, E and you block has the letters F, G, H, I, J. Now, you skip the first letter in the crank shaft code and the last letter in the block code and match them. In my example that would be...B-F, C-G, D-H, E-I.
Now, we're almost done. Now, every dealership has a copy of a spreadsheet you need to line up the codes. Along the left hand side are the letters for the crank and across the top are the letters for the block. So, in my example I would go down the left side until I came to B and then go across until it lined up to F. Where these two cross is your main bearing grade. Like I said before, there are around 12-15 sizes, I can't remember the exact number. I have the spreadsheet at home and I will try and take a pic then post it. Or, you can stop by your local dealer and they can print it out for you. Once again, if you are polishing your crank the size might be off by a little and you might need the next size grade. This was a risk I took since I bought a new crankshaft and it wouldn't be polished.
Rod bearing come in three different grades/sizes 0,1,2. The rod bearing sizes you need for you particler crankshaft is stamped on the pulley side with six numbers. For example, mine said 1,1,1,2,1,2,. Then double the number of rod bearings because they are sold by halves and now you have your rod bearings. However, if you are getting you crank polished or something, you run a small risk that you might end up needing a bigger size bearing. Your machine shop and/or performance shop will fit the bearings and measure them to make sure they are the right size.
The main bearings are a little more difficult to figure out. There is a five letter code on the crank and there is a five letter code on the block. Since you only have four main bearings....assume your crank as the letters A,B, C, D, E and you block has the letters F, G, H, I, J. Now, you skip the first letter in the crank shaft code and the last letter in the block code and match them. In my example that would be...B-F, C-G, D-H, E-I.
Now, we're almost done. Now, every dealership has a copy of a spreadsheet you need to line up the codes. Along the left hand side are the letters for the crank and across the top are the letters for the block. So, in my example I would go down the left side until I came to B and then go across until it lined up to F. Where these two cross is your main bearing grade. Like I said before, there are around 12-15 sizes, I can't remember the exact number. I have the spreadsheet at home and I will try and take a pic then post it. Or, you can stop by your local dealer and they can print it out for you. Once again, if you are polishing your crank the size might be off by a little and you might need the next size grade. This was a risk I took since I bought a new crankshaft and it wouldn't be polished.
wow, I learned something new today... I wasn't aware that you needed to double the number of rod bearing by 2x... I hope my dealer is sharper than I...
Also, what's the part # for the thrust bearings, where are they located and what do they do...
Thanks.
Also, what's the part # for the thrust bearings, where are they located and what do they do...
Thanks.
Last edited by Philthy; Feb 4, 2005 at 06:07 PM.
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 430
Likes: 1
From: Nuclear Power
Originally posted by Philthy
wow, I learned something new today... I wasn't aware that you needed to double the number of rod bearing by 2x... I hope my dealer is sharper than I...
Also, what's the part # for the thrust bearings, where are they located and what do they do...
Thanks.
wow, I learned something new today... I wasn't aware that you needed to double the number of rod bearing by 2x... I hope my dealer is sharper than I...
Also, what's the part # for the thrust bearings, where are they located and what do they do...
Thanks.
I can't seem to find them in the diagram below, but the...
#25 in the diagram shows the rod bearings
#26 in the diagram shows the main bearings
I am going to take a pic of the main bearing spread sheet, I hope it comes out good enough to post.
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 430
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From: Nuclear Power
SORRY, but these pics are pretty blurry because I really had to zoom in with my digital camera. But, these should help along with my previous explanation. Or maybe they'll help you go blind,lol.
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 430
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From: Nuclear Power
Originally posted by 350zDCalb
ernie... you are on a picture-posting roll!
our cars will be done soon, i can't wait to pass up a porche 911 TT (do they have those here in new mexico?)
ernie... you are on a picture-posting roll!
our cars will be done soon, i can't wait to pass up a porche 911 TT (do they have those here in new mexico?)
That last pic makes me think that I've had a few too many beers tonight.
