I am trying to educate my self in the Forced Induction theme and I have been reading every FI article that I could find.
I am aware of the fact that for higher hp and boost, you need to build your bottom end, which consist the short block part of the engine right?
Question is is it ok to take the stock block on my car and build on top of it?
While building the bottom end is forged pistons and connecting rods enoguh, or getting sleeves and getting a forged crankshaft is also required?
Also when we say forged, is it ok to just go get any set of forged pistons and rods or are there some specifications to that too, like double forged ( I dont know what it means I made it up) or triple coated etc....
The question came up when I saw forged internals on sgp racing's website and I wondered to my self, is there anyway that you can go and buy the wrong set of forged internals for vq35de? Is there a way where one brand of forged internals beeing better than the other as far as streght and fitment.
Sorry about all the newbie questions, however I dont feel comfortable doing all this stuff to my car without having a clue about the subject, eventhough I am gonna get somebody to do all the install ( I am kinda mechanically declined).

 

Short block is the entire bottom end (crank, main bearings, rods, pistons, block, etc.)

What do you mean? The shortblocks (referring to SGP Racing services specifically) start out with an OEM bottom end...so yeah.

What kind of power goals are you looking for? If it's over 675rwhp i'd suggest getting sleeves. The stock crankshaft is good for over 1400hp, i've heard of more aftermarket crankshafts failing than OEM (as long as the OEM's are forged, which our's are).

No, maybe ceramic coating the pistons, I don't think you can even ceramic coat the rods, but I very well could be wrong.

Yes, it depends on what metal they are made out of. Pauter's are good for over 1000hp...i'm not sure about any other's, I imagine Crower is as well though.

That's very good to know...i've seen a few people that had no clue about anything go into F/I...usually they end up getting screwed over. It's best to at least know your engine and some basic equations and facts so you can at least keep up with the mechanics/machinists.

 

the crank is one of the strongest, if not THE strongest components in the stock vq35..it is forged...

as far as your other questions...
my very biased recommendations at this point...do it right thye first time, save up the $$$, rebuild the bottom end when installing a twin turbo kit (or any other FI for that matter)
make sure the connecting rods are H-beam..not A-beam,,, i would recommend Pauter rods, they are some of the beefiest rods out there...talk to sharif- gq_626
pistons, many of us went arias..also, a great quality piston..talk to sharif

you could get the parts cryogenically frozen (i know nothing about this process-but was told this further increases the strength)

I would have sleeved my block if i knew my car was gonna be down for 3-4 months anyways..i chose not to simply because of time contraints...but at this point i could have had 3 block sleeved!

sleeving, again, consensus is that it isn't necessary if you are going over 800hp...i don't even know what these numbers are based off of, if there is any research behind those claims, flywheel hp? wheel hp? i honestly don't entirely know...please-if someone KNOWs (not guessing) please inform me...

hmmm, what else...

oh yeah, to decrease your downtime...get a used shortblock (that is an entire bottom end..stock crank/pistons/rods...maybe oil pump, etc (you'll get a new one of these bad boys from nissan for the rebuild anyways)
so..get a used shorblock..discard the stock pistons/rods (make good paperweights)...get the block machined, balanced, blueprinted, built with your stock internals....then when the time comes, swap out the built block for the stock block that you are currently driving with...then sell your stock block and recupe your money for the used block...

that's the BEST way to do it!

hope this helps, my fingers are tired of typing now
TODD

 

Just to add to Andy's "Educational Question", and I notice he is from CA as I am as well. Lets say hypothetically, that APS for example gets a CARB EO #, we decide to build the bottom end and change compression as well. What does that do to the car when smog time comes around? When the smog tech loads the baseline numbers to what the car is suppose to be during the test, will we be able to pass smog, especially in CA? Will building the bottom end, changing compression along with an APS TT, with a CARB EO # (hypothetically), will everything be fine and dandy?

 

Todd, I agree with you somewhat.

I think these motors will withstand 400-460rwhp assuming the following:
You trust your tuner and his capabilities.
You have a shielded crank and cam angle sensor wire.

I'm going to find out to see what it would take to get a rod stretched until it breaks and find out the pressure it took to break it. It depends on how much it will cost, but i'll probably pay for it out of my own pocket. Any OEM rod donations will be welcome.

As far as sleeves, I am going by what the shop that built the fastest 305Z with a VQ35DE said...at 600-800rwhp you're going to need sleeves if it is a daily driver. If it is a drag car, you only need Darton liners at 1400hp to make a few passes.

I agree about the shortblock too, I plan on getting one from SGP Racing, you have to front $2000 for the core...but as soon as you send them your's and they inspect it they refund you. I'm planning on Arias 8.6:1 (.020 overbore) pistons with a ceramic coating, Pauter rods, and Darton M.I.D. sleeves getting installed in the shortblock and sent to me (i'll buy the parts on my own and send it to them and get them to check everything, balance, etc.). It's a good idea IMO, if you can remove the motor on your own and install the bottom end to the heads and hook everything back up and install it back in, it's a good solution IMO.

 

i'm gonna go pick up my stock/blown block in the next couplel of days..i'll pull the rods out and send you one...pm me with your address!

TODD

 

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good deal, i am glad someone is exploring these options to determine the tolerances of the stock rods.

 

I found out what machine you need, a stress test machine that reads in PSI. It can stretch and compress.

I've got to find out if anyone in the area has one and is willing to do it. I've also got to find out the calculations you need to convert the pressure to the pressure the rods are taking at certain RPM's and then convert that to HP.

Todd, great, let me know for sure I can do this thing first though, then i'll PM you my address to get the rod.