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Old Jul 6, 2005 | 07:18 PM
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Default nismo cams install

i heard that the nismo cams are basically a drop in procedure. is this true or do all the shims need to be redone? i will check clearances anyways to make sure on install but would be nice to know before hand so i can better prepare for it.
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Old Jul 6, 2005 | 07:23 PM
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Search is your friend, not sure though if this post helps you out, but points you in the right direction!

https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....t=Cams+install

it's one of the most expensive labor jobs for the 350Z. You need to remove all the accessories, the front and rear timing cover, sprockets, timing chain, all the hardware. It's a flipping mess. My guess is at least $1200



https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....t=Cams+install
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Old Jul 6, 2005 | 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by zand02max
Search is your friend, not sure though if this post helps you out, but points you in the right direction!

https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....t=Cams+install

it's one of the most expensive labor jobs for the 350Z. You need to remove all the accessories, the front and rear timing cover, sprockets, timing chain, all the hardware. It's a flipping mess. My guess is at least $1200



https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....t=Cams+install
No need to fear monger.....it's not that bad. Once you go through the system it is quite simple really. The lack of room at the front of the engine is what adds time to the install. If you remove the fans and radiator it makes quite a bit of room.
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Old Jul 6, 2005 | 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by overZealous1
i heard that the nismo cams are basically a drop in procedure. is this true or do all the shims need to be redone? i will check clearances anyways to make sure on install but would be nice to know before hand so i can better prepare for it.
Nismo's like the JWT's are supposed to be drop ins. When I did a JWT install all the clearances were where they needed to be. The tomei's need the new lifter buckets....especially the 268's.
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Old Jul 7, 2005 | 04:07 AM
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Originally Posted by g356gear
The tomei's need the new lifter buckets....especially the 268's.
yup
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Old Jul 7, 2005 | 07:43 AM
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it's one of the most expensive labor jobs for the 350Z. You need to remove all the accessories, the front and rear timing cover, sprockets, timing chain, all the hardware. It's a flipping mess. My guess is at least $1200

labor is no problem as the motor is out of the car and ready to be assembled. i did number all the springs, lash caps and valves to their respective spot so it should go back with no problem. no machine work was done to the heads at all other than porting so my valve heights will be exact as they were removed. i will not worry about it and just put them in and just double check to make sure. thanks
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Old Jul 11, 2005 | 11:55 PM
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cams in now.checking the measurements shows my clearances to be right in line with the factory minimums with the exception of a couple that were .001 under which i will not worry about. one thing for anyone else trying this, be sure to also mark which cam bearing cap goes where. i got one of them in just 180 degrees wrong and it almost didn't let the cam spin at all. i did number them all but that was number 11, hahaha. couldn't tell if it was right side up or not with just 2 lines on it making the 11. didn't think it would matter much but oh yes it does!!
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Old Jul 12, 2005 | 12:42 AM
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i havent done cams yet with the engine still in the car. doesnt the upper oil pan need to be taken off to get the timing covers off? I guess not... i wonder if it will be hard to get the RTV to seal good down there again tho... that would be a crummy oil leak to have.
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Old Jul 12, 2005 | 05:55 AM
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In order to get the front coveroff you need to loosen the the upper pan and drop it down just a fraction of a inch so you can slide the front cover out. Reinstall is a real bear to get a solid rtv seal. So far so good on the ones that I have done.

Ryan
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Old Jul 12, 2005 | 09:28 AM
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ya it might almost be easier to pull the motor to do it, lol. lots of stuff going on in the timing chain area that obviously has to be perfect.

(congrats with the no smoking thing phunk-i need to follow step!! )
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Old Jul 12, 2005 | 10:10 AM
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man that sounds like a freaking mess. i wouldnt think that the RTV for the upper pan would seal after you pull it apart like that.
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Old Jul 12, 2005 | 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by phunk
man that sounds like a freaking mess. i wouldnt think that the RTV for the upper pan would seal after you pull it apart like that.
It doesn't charles. The old RTV needs to be removed or it is just a bandaid.The old RTV acts like a rubber spacer between the block and upper pan. It WILL leak with a little time and heat. Plus...if the lower pan is not square to the block then that throws off the clearances of the back timing cover to the block/upper pan which effects cam gear clearances, etc,etc. Also the lower rubber crank seal will not sit right either. That whole scenario is just asking for a host of problems and leaks....but I am a bit of a perfectionist. If I do it I do it right the first time. Just my 2c.
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Old Jul 12, 2005 | 01:47 PM
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and removing the upper oil pan with the engine in the car is a nightmare also... i did this when i put my engine back in i messed up my rear main seal... had to take out the crossmember with the car on jackstands and a picker holding up the engine. i would never do that again.
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Old Jul 12, 2005 | 05:21 PM
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yea it is no easy task to clean off the mating surfaces, Nissan really cakes the RTV on at the factory. Charles I understand about dropping the pan with the engine in the car what a pita.

ryan
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Old Jul 13, 2005 | 10:37 AM
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yes i am trying to get my motor as complete as possible before going back in. thinking of removing the entire nose (radiator and shrouds) to make it even easier. tight work spaces lead to many busted knuckles!!! mine are bad enough already!
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