Phatmitzu

iTrader: (34)

The car drove fine after the Tnetics S/T install, except for an exhaust leak(fixed it).

After 1,500 miles, the car started to run weird...

First thing is it went into safe/limp mode twice on me in one week. Stopped, restarted, ran fine for a week or two. I have random missfire code since the install. MAF is acting weird??

Second, I noticed the rpm dropps rappidly after I get out the gas. Then it will try to recover and adjust itself to normal. I know that there is a fix for it(JWT site)...but it did not do this before. It makes me think that I have a intake leak somewhere??

Then I noticed that the car would boog when I am on light throttle, letting my foot on the gas but just let it cruise in 4th...the car would boog from time to time. Felt like the fuel line is sucking up air bubbles??

The today, while driving in traffic(I noticed it will only do this when on light throttle or low rpms), all of suddent the car just stalls. I was in 1st gear going to 2nd. As soon as I restart it, it went into safe mode.

Its running worse and worse. So I assume whatever the problem is, its getting worse.

If I were to have a intake leak, where should I check?
The fuel bubble assumption...can it be caused by the factory fuel pressure mod that was required for the install?

Will the intake make any sucking/leaking noise at idle? Cuz I can hear air(I think) at idle...somewhere, I cant find it.

I know something must be wrong, I just need to know where to start checking...

My mods are in my sig. I did not add any new mods lately.

Thanks all!

JETPILOT

iTrader: (51)

I have the misfire code, and the drop in RPM when releasing the clutch. The misfire code is normal.

I'm not happy about the rpm drop. The rpm will drop excessively to about 300rpm before stabilizing at idle at about 1000 rpm. Sometimes it will stall when it drops. The car has stalled 3 times in about 500 miles of city driving. What is the fix on the JWT site???? Link and more info please.

Anyone else?

Respect
JET

booger

iTrader: (6)

If you can hear an air leak...you have an air leak . Check all your vacuum hoses very carefully , and your intercooler pipes . Other than that....Miaplaya...will be able to give you the most help

theking

iTrader: (3)

+1. It sounds like a vacuum leak. The only time I had a problem with the car stalling like you are talking about is when I was blowing the intercooler and maf pipe off. I fixed the problem with some T-bolt clamps from Napa. I would suggest you do this just as a good measure anyways(unless the T-netics comes with them). Again, Miaplay needs to chime in since he knows all thing Turbonetics.

Phatmitzu

iTrader: (34)

Here it is.
http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wol...BILITY_FIX.PDF

I havent try it yet. I couldnt find the crankcase breather hose in the instruction...let me know if you can.

Yeah, but Im not even sure what I hear is air leak or just the timing belt...
I did check all the visible hoses and pipings. Nothing yet...I will jack up the car later tonight to inspect closer.


No one thinks it may be the fuel pump mod? I remember I heard if the hole on the pump was drilled too big, it might cause irregular fuel pressure.

overZealous1

iTrader: (27)

the jwt idle stabilization mod will only work on draw through and not blow through maf systems. i don't know much about the turbonetics turbo set up but am thinking it is a blow through. i got around this by drilling a 1/8th inch hole in my throttle plate which is exactly the same thing the jwt mod accomplishes in the end, which is just getting more metered air into the motor and not leaving it up to the stock idle control measures to keep the car from stalling cause they sometimes can't react fast enough. but this can be done on the blow through systems. mine used to die almost every stop, now it hasn't died once since doing this.
i would check first for leaks, as this is kind of a band aid (but a dam good working one, lol) but the throttle plate is brass so if you want to fill the hole back up it is an easy solder job.

Peking

iTrader: (2)

Strange that you were good then now having strange stuff going down... Since you are Cali why not visit Technosquare and get them to check your flash out... One way to eliminate a option of what it can be if something in the program has changed. For example one of my problems was 100% duty cycle which is why my power went down and bogged.

theking

iTrader: (3)

Please explain. I thought the flash wouldn't let you get this much duty cycle. The stock fuel system/ecu only goes to 100% duty cycle when their is a problem with the fuel system. Are you saying their first program was giving full duty cycle.

Peking

iTrader: (2)

Yeah that is what is strange... Before the Emanage Ultimate, car would bog like crazy after 5K rpm... And couldn't figure out why, sent the ECU a couple of time back to Technosquare to see if we could lean it out cause I was so rich... But it hardly got any better, then when the EU was installed and tuning started I was losing power still so they found out the injectors were set on 100% duty cycle and not sure why but changed it and bam much greater power.

Phatmitzu

iTrader: (34)

Dropped the car off to the shop last night. CEL code was something about the MAF sensor/low voltage...

Cleared it. Took her out for a short run. The car runs okay, no more booging. But same problem with the rpm drop too low/wanting to stall after I depress the clutch still exists.

They are going to check the intake plenum and all the pipings for leaks. If nothing, then probably its my MAF sensor that went bad.

I hate the MAF sensor on our cars...its been giving me trouble ever since I start modding it.

I have decided, after my next paycheck, the Fcon V-pro is going in. And Im going to trash that piece of **** MAF sensor.


Will update later...

MIAPLAYA

iTrader: (3)

The drop in RPMs is typically caused by an overly rich condition when the motor is revving down and the throttle plates closes. This is in some ways due to the fact we are venting to atmosphere and there could be a slight bit of reversion in the intake tract. Other then that I would check the vacuum reading at idle. You should have 20 hg of vacuum at idle. If the MAF is freaking it may be a fualty MAF sensor though. Let me know if I can help at all.

Peking

iTrader: (2)

That or maybe, reaching way out there with this... After I sent my ECU to Technosqaure the first time (after the flash from Turbonetics), they set my idle lower than 900rpm... And the car would shut off sometimes in between shifts while driving cause it would dip so low. Get the idle bumped up to 1K and not had a problem since.

Maybe the not the same, but could be similar.

Phatmitzu

iTrader: (34)

I am at that. 19.x ~ 20.x vacuum at idle. Car runs fine now..weird.
The idle drop problem is still there. What is the deal with the draw through and blow through maf systems overZealous1 was talking about? JWT fix wont do it for us Tnetics owners? I really dont want to drill a hole on my throttle plate.

Im idling at 950+ rpm now. I found out the stalling problem only will happen if I depess the clutch when the car is at higher than 3,000 rpm. If at norma driving(slowing down then press clutch at lower rpm) the rpm dips, but it will quickly corrects itself. Wont stall.

MIAPLAYA

iTrader: (3)

Vacuum looks good from those numbers. The JWT idle fix thing only works on an N/A car. I have not had an issue putting the clutch in at 3,000 but I honestly must say I don't usually put the clutch in and let the car go to idle from above that regularly. I usually down shift as I come to a stop and my RPMs are usuallly below 3500 when I do that. Are you saying the car dies when you are just shifting gears?

Phatmitzu

iTrader: (34)

No. Shifting gears are fine. I tighten the BOV a little to slow the RPM drop during shifting. Is just when I press the clutch at 3k+ and let the car roll itself. Thats when it will stall. I usually dont do that on normal driving. But I was just testing on when/how I drive will make the car stall.

MIAPLAYA

iTrader: (3)

Hmm I'll have to try that as honestly I don't think I have ever done that. I know some people had a similar issue when they installed the JWT POP charger but I don't know if there was ever a "fix" for that. I'm pretty sure you said it was but is your idle around 900-950? It should be after the reflash. Also may want to double check your fuel pressure if you haven't already. It should be around 53-55 PSI at idle...

kcobean

iTrader: (2)

I know this is kinda "out there", but you might try performing the throttle position learning procedure and see if that helps. Sharif had me do this on my car because it was occasionally stalling and it helped. This was of course after the addition of the EU, injectors, fuel system, etc. but maybe it will help you too.

Phatmitzu

iTrader: (34)

Yea, its mostly at 950 +- 10rpms. I dont have a fuel pressure gauge yet. The AAM fuel return came with one...not installed yet. I want to get the bugs out first before I add more stuff onto the car. So in case more problems occur in the future, we'll know where to look.


Will do a search on that.

Thanks