from shops the I trust - nice one

 

Cool.

 

JWT markets their TT set as 6MT only, that is not to say that it would not work with 5AT, but I would wait until someone takes the plunge first.
BTW, if you move into the "tuner kit" realm, the possibilities for you would be much greater. Despite the fact that most kits offer decent EMS's, none can touch the ones that are available by themselves (UTEC, HKS, EU...). Then you can simply chose the kit based on the best hard parts...

 

Also, if your pockets are deep enough, there are three companies that offer fully built 5AT tranny packages for the Z. They all include re-worked valve bodies and upgraded clutchpacks... This is what I know about them so far:

SFR: has a core program, at least one member, Tinman, has one. Seems to give a good feedback about it

SGP: no core porgram. Not aware of anyone using it. But SGP does make the best valve body upgrade.

IPT: no core program, but located in Wayne, NJ. Doesn't sound like they ever did a Z before, but seem capable enough. They built the tranny for a 9-sec auto-tranny Eclipce.

Either way you go, be prepared to drop about 3000-3500 $.

P.S. There are 2 different 5AT's on the Z, one has the computer on the inside, one has it on the outside. If you are to use a core program, make sure that they built the right one for you, as these two are not interchangeble...

Hope this helps.

 

Samething with the greddy it says in the website only manual but i think 3 people have it on auto's.

 

The bell housing on 5AT is bigger. It is not guaranteed that the piping will clear it.
And I don't even understand why is everyone pizzing their pants over the JWT kit, these peanut size turbos seem to run out of breath at about 6000 rpm, Nevermind the fact that it forces you to run stock injectors maxing out their duty cycle. I'm glad that it's the most OEM-like, but have you seen THAT many heavily modded Supras and Z32s that are still using stock turbos? And, just b/c a turbo is small and is able to hit max boost sooner doen't mean anything. The SFR kit can make over 400 whp on just a little more then 6 PSI (and that's with the split second box, imagine a UTEC or the HKS). And that TT kit can hit 6 PSI at about 3000 rpm (all according to the website, if they lie then I'm wrong), so the ability to hit a certain boost level quicker does not necessarily mean that you'll make the power quicker. Not to mention that lower boost means lower heat AND ability to run higher compression pistons, improving the throttle response further. It looks that everyone had to raise to boost by 1.5-2 psi just to compensate for the power lost by going from stock to 8.5:1 comp ratio... I'm guessing to have room for making really insane power, or just b/c everyone else was doing the same... **flame suit's on**

 

You can run larger injectors, the reason the JWT runs stock injectors is to clear carb certification (which they still are waiting on) unlike the other Turbo kits which pretty much don't give a damn about being carb certified. This of course would limit how much power you can produce with the kit, but if your power goals are 380-400 hp & torque with stock engine & carb cert down the line then you really can't go wrong with the JWT.

 

Yep, this is the reason Jim went with those injectors. Basically, if you are looking for over 550hp, the Wolf kit has to be upgraded, if you are looking for CARB approved, then you understand the design goal of the JWT kit.

 

Yeah, except I don't expect an average cop to let me off with an understanding nod once he sees a JWT set under my hood as opposed to anything else. But I do agree with you, that if you don't expect to go over 400 whp, this kit is the easiest and simplest solution. But if that's the case, you may as well save a couple grand and get a Stillen with an 8 psi pulley and a good tune...
But when track junkies install it... Now that's a bit confusing...

 

Mraturbo....the guy at the shop told me i would have to up grade my tranny...but i dont understand that...maybe sum1 can help me out by what he ment by that? is it b/c the A/T tranny cant hold that much power? please help me out...

 

I already helped you out. Read post #24. Any of these would suit your needs, once again, if you have that $$ to throw around.

 

my badd Oleg...just wanted to make sure i wasnt missing any info....the other thing is...the owner of the shop has APS TT setup and he said to do APS myself....i really dont know much about their product....but i hear alot of good things about em and i see alot of ppl use em...how good is their stuff? and will it hold up...i know tunning is a big part but i mean otherwise...

 

APS is an awesome kit. Out of the box, it is probably the best. If you like the out of box settings (which you most likely will...), you will not need to do any tuning on it (I think) The MRC did install at least a dozen of them and they should know by now everything about what to and not to do when installing it. Julian is knowledgable and trustworthy, although he may deserve the "Grumpy Bear" title more then Kyle Puckett does...

 

Do yourself a favor and start searching on this site. You will find all the info you'll ever need. Its hard to sum things up off of one thread. In the end you'll figure out what is right for you.

 

thanks guys...

 

FI can work on 5AT... it might come at a risk... but IMO its a risk worth taking... and hell ... we might even somewhat bonus from the traction problems that lots of the FI Z's are having... They can not seem to grab the ground when shift from the pure power... the AT will allow the car to remain in power between shifts... might help out! I havent been in a 5AT FI Z yet... but wait about a week Mine will be finish from Tuning Factory!! *Shameless Plug*

 

NOTE:

For only up to 400 WHP, the tranny is fine. Maybe just a simple Valve Body to smooth the shifts. Many folks have used up to this power level with AT. However, if you are looking to make huge power like 500 WHP/550+ FT/LB torque, you will need to take Oleg’s advice in addition to building your motor amoung many other things regardless of which Kit, JWT, APS, GReddy, etc.

Sorry if my previous post's suggestion was a lil' confusing. If you wish to PM, I would be more than happy to help out.

 

well thank u Mraturbo....i appreciate it..the guy at the shop told me to upgrade my tranny anyways...but can i still do 500rwhp and not worry about my internals on my engine?

 

The only way not to worry about stock internals at 500 whp is to have a fully built motor on stand by... A few people are getting away with it, but it's a matter of time in my opinion...

But 400 whp is definately in a safe range. So for 400 whp or less, you'll be fine with a valve body for the tranny and stock motor. Anything above-upgrade, upgrade, upgrade...

 

No problem MFAnello350 and Oleg is correct. You have to remember; a built motor is simply stronger parts and lowering compression with different pistons. There is no real secret. Stronger materials like forged rods and pistons can withstand MORE heat and stress. The more boost requires more fuel requiring more pressure making more stress. Lowering compression helps reduce the pressure and heat as well.

NOTE: The Built Motor's stronger parts help incredibly and it is also important WHO and How someone builds your motor that counts. Not all built motors are created EQUALLY!

In addition, the more boost you use requires better tuning and even MORE ATTENTION to detonation. So at any rate, I recommend anyone who is looking for more than 400 WHP, NOT ON THE DYNO, but daily driving on pump gas at higher boost and higher WHP to BUILD YOUR MOTOR regardless of what turbo system you own or wish to buy. Don't get blinded by everyone's claims of huge horsepower on a non-built motor. If they are bragging, they probably haven't lost a motor yet.

IMPORTANT: 8-second dyno runs are so short and loud you may never even realize your car has detonation. Almost everyone can turn their boost up and run the dyno at higher boost and drive away. It is cool and gives you a bragging number, but most can't drive their cars hard or road race them on a 20 minute session consistently at that higher boost without a motor build or simply catastrophe MAY happens. Yes it can EVEN HAPPEN TO YOU.

Think - if you are driving around town on pump gas at a higher boost setting than you should, and decide to drag a corvette next to you at the light and your car detonates even for a few seconds, you will for sure hear it then. Here some slapping of a rod or piston breaking through your block.

VQ35s aren't like the old Z32 or Supra motors of the 90's which could handle much more boost than our current motors. They are lighter today break alot easier. Just a fact we all have to live with and this is why we build motors. It is a safety net that is not a guaranty, yet helps to decrease your chances of something breaking.

You can have APS, SFR, Greddy, Power Ent. Turbonetics, OR JWT, AND I would still recommend you build your motor if you are looking to play with your boost controller more than your Out of the Box system recommends.

My $.02.