~Turbo Systems~
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Mraturbo...thanks for the info but the guy at the shop said i should be happy wit 375hp APS ST...or 400 at the most TT...i just want to play safe and not worry about the engine...so i minus stay at 400 or lower hp range...is he correct? i don know how much a built motor is nor too much money to dish out....but i heard out of the box APS systems are good.....
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Originally Posted by MFAnello350
Mraturbo...thanks for the info but the guy at the shop said i should be happy wit 375hp APS ST...or 400 at the most TT...i just want to play safe and not worry about the engine...so i minus stay at 400 or lower hp range...is he correct? i don know how much a built motor is nor too much money to dish out....but i heard out of the box APS systems are good.....
M
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curious? here in canada twins will set you back 6 to 7 grand plus installation extra,also nissan will void your warranty for any engine mods.. How much do they go for in the u.s and can you still keep your warranty?
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Originally Posted by MFAnello350
Mraturbo...thanks for the info but the guy at the shop said i should be happy wit 375hp APS ST...or 400 at the most TT...i just want to play safe and not worry about the engine...so i minus stay at 400 or lower hp range...is he correct? i don know how much a built motor is nor too much money to dish out....but i heard out of the box APS systems are good.....
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Originally Posted by zman1910
Any type of FI on the Z will make your jaw drop....considering you'll be gaining ~100whp at the very minumum. I'd stay at 350whp initially and learn to drive the vehicle properly then eventually raise the boost. The car will be amazingly quick at 350whp and will be ultra safe for your internals. I am telling you this bc I had the APS ST setup tuned at 380whp and 401lb/ft. It was plenty fast but it was more of a straight line machine. I don't plan on exceeding 350whp and torque on my next setup and I want to upgrade all the suspension components to get a tight feeling and still very fast Z. Basically I want a track ready Z.....and when I get accustomed to 350hp I'll move on up. Did that make any sense?
It makes perfect sence. If the car gets too far ahead of the driver, both tend to suffer. Or both of us are confused.
BTW, VRT dude, the photo of that roadster on the track... One of the best stances I've seen on a Z, and I am not even a fan of convertibles. Sounds weird, but even the helmet looks like its sopposed to be there...
Last edited by Oleg; 01-31-2006 at 12:00 PM.
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Originally Posted by Oleg
It makes perfect sence. If the car gets too far ahead of the driver, both tend to suffer. Or both of us are confused.
BTW, VRT dude, the photo of that roadster on the track... One of the best stances I've seen on a Z, and I am not even a fan of convertibles. Sounds weird, but even the helmet looks like its sopposed to be there...
BTW, VRT dude, the photo of that roadster on the track... One of the best stances I've seen on a Z, and I am not even a fan of convertibles. Sounds weird, but even the helmet looks like its sopposed to be there...
I just sold it after removing all of the race components and turning her back to stock. I bought a salvaged Z Coupe, Lemans Sunset, to turn into a racecar for the track only. We are building the motor and will make at least 500 WHP and close to 600 FT/LBS of torque for killing it....
Will keep you all posted on the progress of the project. I got the car from one of our clients after he totaled it with his Greddy kit. The accident wasn't his fault fortunately and nobody got hurt. We are building him a new car with some incredible mods including a built motor, JWT, Teins, AP Racing Brakes, and Volk SF Winnings. Going to be an awesome car.
NOTE: To those with Roadsters, since that tragic death accident at Californai Speedway in mid 2005, Too many times I was denied track access with my Roadster because the car didn't have a full roll set-up. I tried to rollcage it, but it would have made the convertible useless, thus the decision to change to a Coupe. Oh well, the coupe will be safer, lighter, and faster....
Thanks Again for the compliment.
Michael
Last edited by mraturbo; 01-31-2006 at 05:17 PM.
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Originally Posted by MFAnello350
this is sick...question is..how do u raise the boost? sorry for acting like a newb but im tryin to learn as much as possible....
There are many different boost controllers, manual and electronic. The easiest and cheapest way is to get a manual boost turn valve that allows you to set the PSI at a certain level.
A few companies like Greddy make them. Or you can get an electronic boost controller, look up boost controller on Google and you will find all kinds of results. These are typically more expensive and they have a variety of different settings, controls, and channels.
For your set-up, I would get a manual and just set it at the safest setting on pump gas that the car is tuned for.
BTW, you can avoid even getting a boost controller if you want to just operate off the turbo waist gates which is the minimum PSI the turbo springs are set for.
With the JWT kit, the waist gates springs are set for around 7 PSI which should yield you around 380 WHP.
Goodluck and don't be afraid to ask questions, that is how I learned.
M
Last edited by mraturbo; 01-31-2006 at 08:39 PM.
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Originally Posted by Oleg
BTW, VRT dude, the photo of that roadster on the track... One of the best stances I've seen on a Z, and I am not even a fan of convertibles. Sounds weird, but even the helmet looks like its sopposed to be there...
I agree, I am not the most fond of convertables either, but that roadsters stance was one of the best I have ever seen too. That car was a pioneer and definately served more than its purpose, I am gonna miss it....Kinda!
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Originally Posted by MFAnello350
this is sick...question is..how do u raise the boost? sorry for acting like a newb but im tryin to learn as much as possible....
lots of people are in the same boat dont think any question is dumb... good people here
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Originally Posted by BobaFettm
hey i was the same way with boost till i started to really read about it on this site...
lots of people are in the same boat dont think any question is dumb... good people here
lots of people are in the same boat dont think any question is dumb... good people here
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thanks guys...this means alot to me....Mraturbo....i have an A/T and i was gonna go wit APS but tha thing is....ST OR TT??? is the question that is bobbing my mind...
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Originally Posted by Oleg
I don't mean to lead the thread astray, but what are your mods to the auto tranny? And what are your mileage and impressions? I am trying to decide between a 3.5G tranny build up vs a simple valve body/external cooler. I will not be going over 400 whp BTW, what is the power you are making?
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Originally Posted by MFAnello350
thanks guys...this means alot to me....Mraturbo....i have an A/T and i was gonna go wit APS but tha thing is....ST OR TT??? is the question that is bobbing my mind...
M
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Originally Posted by MFAnello350
thanks guys...this means alot to me....Mraturbo....i have an A/T and i was gonna go wit APS but tha thing is....ST OR TT??? is the question that is bobbing my mind...
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Originally Posted by georgec
I'd go the APS twin turbo though at lower boost pressure, the larger APS/Garrett GT turbos will be much kinder on the auto trans. Too much torque low in the rpm will kill many auto trannys (I know this from practical experience and a much lighter wallet), good luck with the project.
Following same line of logic, SFR TT is even better. The turbos are even bigger then in the APS kit...
http://www.speedforceracing.com/prod...35turbokit.php
According to the website, this thing can hit 6 psi at less the 3000 rpm, with good tuning, 6 PSI will grant you 400 whp...
As fas as torque goes, in my opinion only vehicles that should have more torque the hp are AWDs...
But I just saw you're in Melbourne, then APS may be the best option for you.
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Originally Posted by MFAnello350
does anyone know the APS website??? cant find it anywhere..
forgot they wont let us link to APS...so just type it in below and fill in the spaces
Last edited by zman1910; 02-01-2006 at 06:43 PM.