veilside350zTT

Hey guys Just got my turbonetics kits prolly about 200 miles on it.. After driving it for about 60miles never going above 5500rpm. I started hearing a ticking.. The ticking grew louder and gets faster when i rev up..

I dropped it off to the shop and they are thinkin its a Rod Bearing.. Im pretty upset cuz i never even got a chance to enjoy the turbo..

What do you guys think wud cause my bearing to go bad? I only got 48K on my Z..

p.s. If i end up changin rods what else should i change with them?? (rods, pistons,etc..?)

XBS

iTrader: (29)

change the rods and pistons and get new beainrs. if you dont want to spends to muche money get the eagle rods and arias pistons and you will be fine

Trip

iTrader: (2)

I would definately check out the oil pump, heads, crank oil journals, and piston ring-lands and the turbos center cartridge and make sure there isn't any contaminants sticking around before rebuilding.

As for why the bearings went, you could have had an issue with the oil pump getting contaminants caught up in it and lost sufficient lubrication. Could have been from multiple sources (dirt, metal shavings from anywhere in the motor). Bearings can go from stress, but more likely they went from some kind of friction build up in your case. You didn't have the kit long enough to have put that much pressure on the crank from what I can tell by your post......

Was the oil level good beforehand?

At the least I would swap the rods and rings for some better materials. Of course, if you end up needing a crank, you may as well forge everything. Cranks = $$$

Alberto

iTrader: (14)

Curious where is your oil return line tapped? At the block or a spacer?

MIAPLAYA

iTrader: (3)

Curious whether or not your shop fixed the problems you were having going into limp mode? I'm pretty sure the rod bearings aren't going to last long if the motor goes from 5500 to 2500 instantly..

nissansource

iTrader: (10)

My motor has 48k and its doing just fine. I even pulled the Original plugs recent and all were trashed from being so damn old. i put my fresh set of NGKs in and car loves them. Sorry about your missfortune.

screener

iTrader: (10)

I have heard bad rod bearings and never once could I describe the noise as ticking,sounds like a knock to me.Ticking noises usally stay in the valvetrain,Sounds to me like you might have a sticking lifter.I would try a complete motor flush.I used to run across sticky lifters at Kia alot the flush worked everytime you just have to leave it in there and rev the the motor.Did they use a stethoscope to come to the rod bearing conclusion?

Sharif@Forged

iTrader: (92)

A ticking is not a bad or spun rod bearing. Ticking is more indicative of valve train noise, your piston hitting a valve, bent valve, or even something as simple as an exhuast leak. "Sounds" are so difficult/impossible to diagnose over the internet.

Best of luck...let me know if I can help you out. But first...I would find out if your motor is actually damaged...maybe you will get lucky.

Alberto

iTrader: (14)

In my old car-not a Z, I experienced slight ticking, exactly like when I bent a valve in that earlier motor. Over the course of 25 miles(yeah I shoulda stopped driving) it went from ticking to knocking, to eventually locked up-it was a spun rod bearing. They can sometimes start as ticking too guys....

charlie_rdstr_Z

iTrader: (2)

If it's a pretty loud 3 second a tick sound then the rod may have let go. You can ask to do a compression test and a borescope to inspect. If it's simple chattering then it's valve train noise. I pray to buddha it is the latter.

Sharif@Forged

iTrader: (92)

I dont disagree with you Alberto....its just impossible for anyone to diagnose a sound over the internet. Have a professional you trust, check out that engine.

mraturbo

iTrader: (1)

What is your boost level and octane of fuel?
What are your A/F ratios?

If your car was detonating, or running lean a motor won't last long.

M

Alberto

iTrader: (14)

Yeah I wasnt disagreeing ewith you Sharif-Id say most of the time a ticking is like you said valvetrain related, but ya never know. Hopefully the thread starter will provide us an update.

g356gear

iTrader: (12)

If you run the car disconnect each of your coil packs one at a time. If the noise goes away when you disconnect a certain pack then that is the bad cylinder and that is most likely the bad rod bearing. If the noise persists after checking each cylinder then it's not a rod bearing. You usually only get a rod bearing knock when you have ignition in the cylinder....it is really obvious. Check for shavings in the oil as well. With a bad rod bearing the aluminum coating on the bearing is usually gone and that bearing is down to the copper.

lucidazn

iTrader: (2)

The car doesn't go from 5500 to 2500 instantly. I was driving on the freeway and hit limp mode... car disables throttle input until you are below 2500, then you regain throttle input. Then you need to pull over and restart =/

veilside350zTT

Wow this is all very helpful info.. Im still waiting to here back from the shop.. Im gonna pass some of this information on to them and see wat they think.. Thanks guys i will keep you updated..

p.s. If it was a rod bearing would i notice a difference in power? because my car still feels fine.. its just the ticking thats bothering me.. Could it be lifters?

lucidazn

iTrader: (2)

Could your axle be ticking? That could be the problem also...

MIAPLAYA

iTrader: (3)

The car runs fine? Doubtful its the rob bearing. Did they fix the limp mode issues you are having yet?

mraturbo

iTrader: (1)

Yep, the MAF sensor and TOO MUCH VOLTAGE will throw them in Limp...Stop, Turn Her Off, and Restart. Should be cool after that. What Up MIA? Any of you going to Laguna Seca next Tuesday with Speedventures.net?

M