ATS Triple CC
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From: Shelby Twp, Michigan
I just got the ATS triple CC. I think my issue is actually with the clutch cable, but I figured the guys in the FI section would know because we're probably the only ones that would need to go with the triple to hold the big power. Anyway, on to my issue.
When pushing in the clutch peddle or letting it out, the clutch for about the first 3 inches or so feels dry/grabby (almost like the cable is being squeezed or something and is getting caught). The clutch also makes a dry sounding noise when pressed in or let out. Anyone know if this is simply an issue to adjust or greese the clutch cable or possibly time for new trans fluid? Thanks in advance.
When pushing in the clutch peddle or letting it out, the clutch for about the first 3 inches or so feels dry/grabby (almost like the cable is being squeezed or something and is getting caught). The clutch also makes a dry sounding noise when pressed in or let out. Anyone know if this is simply an issue to adjust or greese the clutch cable or possibly time for new trans fluid? Thanks in advance.
Maybe time to bleed in some high temp fluid. If you don't already have one might as well swap on a SS braided clutch line that is heat wrapped. I've boilded my clutch fluid at the track before.
I used this http://www.mossyperformance.com/product/?id=3270
and bled in this: http://www.mossyperformance.com/product/?id=4312
no issues since...
I used this http://www.mossyperformance.com/product/?id=3270
and bled in this: http://www.mossyperformance.com/product/?id=4312
no issues since...
Bleed and adjust the pedal free-play/engagement/movement back into spec with the adjustment bolts around the pedal. Im sure the instructions are in the service manual which can be downloaded around here.
That said, the triple plate will have a different feel from you stock clutch.
That said, the triple plate will have a different feel from you stock clutch.
I have been using the ATS 3 disc carbon clutch and lightweight flywheel set up and love it. Several hard charging track days on it, and it has been everything you would expect of a performance clutch on the track. But the happy surprise is that for such an outstanding high performance unit, it is remarkably civil in street use. Apart from the expected ginger approach to starting off from a dead stop when you have such a lightweight flywheel, the rest of the street experience is very tame.
The challenge you face definitely sounds like the one Sharif (and Philthy) have diagnosed as a best guesstimate from what you describe. A good place to start anyway.
By all means let us know what the ultimate solution turns out to be.
Good luck.
The challenge you face definitely sounds like the one Sharif (and Philthy) have diagnosed as a best guesstimate from what you describe. A good place to start anyway.
By all means let us know what the ultimate solution turns out to be.
Good luck.
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Eagle1 is spot on. The ATS triple disc with 1350kg pressure plate is arguably the only clutch that can support 1000whp, but still slip and drive normally from a start. And Eagle1 gets extra points for spelling my name correctly!! Thanks Ed!
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From: Shelby Twp, Michigan
Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged
Eagle1 is spot on. The ATS triple disc with 1350kg pressure plate is arguably the only clutch that can support 1000whp, but still slip and drive normally from a start. And Eagle1 gets extra points for spelling my name correctly!! Thanks Ed!
The odd thing is this - D350Z (Dil) or whatever his screen name is and I both got our cars done at the same shop. He had his engine installed and a new clutch installed as well. I had my engine installed and the new ATS triple disc clutch installed. Last week when he was getting his car tuned, he had the same problem with his clutch catching and sometimes sticking. Oddly enough, my car developed the same exact issue. The last two days it was really catchy when lifting off the clutch and a few times it stuck to the floor. Dil's car has around 14,000 miles I think and I have around 40,000. Too coincidental, right? Any thoughts now? Thanks in advance.
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From: Shelby Twp, Michigan
Just talked to them - saying it may be the "Slave Cylinder"? If so, how would this go bad? I find it odd that my car and D350Z10's car has the same problem within a week of each other when our cars are coming out of the same garage? Any thoughts?
When the slave cylinder was removed from the bell housing, its possible that some air got into that cylinder, or someone pushed the clutch pedal down, and it ejected the shaft, spring, and seal.
Either way, the system definatley has air in it, based on what you just described.
Either way, the system definatley has air in it, based on what you just described.
Yancy - if you want to try a clutch line, PM me your address and I'll send you one
I would look to bleeding the old stuff out completely first, and swapping to a fresh higher temp fluid (Castrol SRF if you are super ****)
I'd be shocked to see a slave going that early on in the cars life (I dont know of a single car that has had to replace a master or slave yet), but I suppose anything is possible
I would look to bleeding the old stuff out completely first, and swapping to a fresh higher temp fluid (Castrol SRF if you are super ****)
I'd be shocked to see a slave going that early on in the cars life (I dont know of a single car that has had to replace a master or slave yet), but I suppose anything is possible
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