HI all

Firs off all this is a great forum.

I need some help please.
I have just installed a APS TT kit with test pipes. The car is running fine but I have one issue.
I have had the idle on the car raised to 800rpm and it hold it perfect until the engine is revved. Then the revs drop quickly and the car stalls. This happen when you come to a stop as well. From what I can see there is no air leaks as it idles spot on (standing still).
The car drives fine A/F are fine it starts fine from cold ect ect. In fact all is fine apart from this stalling issue.

I have seen the idle stabalizing kit on here
http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wol...BILITY_FIX.PDF

Can this be used on a F/I car and if it can where is the crankcase breather hose.

Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks

 

I'd check the O2 sensor first

 

Try raising idle a little more to around 900

 

I know I'm not a TT, but I had that same problem because of the Light Flywheel. Just a thought. JWT Fix I think is for that problem.

 

how long has this been going on for? it could be the ecu still "learning" the idle- if it was disconnected for any length of time, the ecu goes through this process for several days of drving, at times, a week.

what is the A/F ratio at idle?

-TODD

 

I have an APS TT with cams and flywheel. The only time I would get this was when I had air in the cooling system. Thats how I'd know that the problem came back, the car would stall once the revs went up like at start up. It would go up then all the way down and stall. My idle is also 800-850. Make sure you not overheating due to air in the cooling system.

 

That's what happened with my car. After installing the APS TT on my 06, the car would sometimes stall when I came to a stop. But after driving it around for a little while the idle stabilized. Now the car idles like stock.

 

When you rev the engine and the rpms drop..............are you moving at speed when you are doing it...........coming to a stop?

 

Thanks for the replies so fare guys.

I have had the problem for 3 week now. But saying that the car only gets driven ay weekends. If I rev the car at stand still to 2000rpm it drops and idles fine. If I rev above this the rpm just drop to 0 and the car stops. This also happens when driving and pushing in the clutch. When the car is at stand still it idles as smooth as with no problem. The car Is not over heat at all.

Any more help would be off grate help as I am at a loss.

Thanks

 

Do you have an aftermarket flywheel? I see those kind of problems with the unichip computer ,used with some kinds of aftermarket flywheels.

 

No standard flywheel al v

 

Think it may be your blowoff valve setting. Try tightening it...that should take care of the stalling problem.

 

Yep, blowoff valve... had the same problem. Tighten that sucker

 

you can have technosquare reflash your ecu so it doesnt go below a certain rpm when shifting and ideling

 

Thanks for the replies

I will tighten the bov and see how it works

Has any one used the idle stabilizing kit?

 

Idle stabilizing kit = doesn't work. I made one and it actually made my car worse! Much worse. It's still sitting in my garage.

 

Hi

Ok I have tightened the bov all the way in. Reset the Idle air learning and have been driving it for no and off 2 day now it is a bit better but still stalling when you release the clutch over 2 ½k rpm.

Have we any other ideas as to what it can be. Would a air leak do this. The idle is rock steady when standing still.

Many Thanks

 

Is your BOV a recirculating one or does it vent to atmosphere?

What brand is the BOV? Did it come with the APS kit?

Another possibility is that you may have the wrong spring for your BOV...especially if it is a Tial BOV.

 

it is the one that came wit the APS kit

 

Drilling a 1/8 in. hole in the throttle body plate has been reported to work well in eleminating stalling.. Check search function for previous postings on this solution. Good luck..