Is it worth the TT upgrade?
Im not whining here man, im trying to throw stuff out there and get responses from people. Trust me I been doing research, I get all my parts from MRC here in Jersey, I talked extensively to both Jay and Julien about the FI setup,I rode is Jays car when it was first done, i know what FI feels like in our cars,, money is not an issue for me here either. Im just now understanding there is alot of things to consider when going FI, like the aussie said up there. And BigBri, i never said anybody was a dik for FI on thier Z,, so i dont think im baggin on anybody, I only bagged the guy up there tryin to play me out with the GTR/Skyline name comment. Also thanks for all the info/backround history on nissan motors, i was not aware of much of that info, interesting to know.
Originally Posted by CFaddict350z
Im not whining here man, im trying to throw stuff out there and get responses from people. Trust me I been doing research, I get all my parts from MRC here in Jersey, I talked extensively to both Jay and Julien about the FI setup,I rode is Jays car when it was first done, i know what FI feels like in our cars,, money is not an issue for me here either. Im just now understanding there is alot of things to consider when going FI, like the aussie said up there. And BigBri, i never said anybody was a dik for FI on thier Z,, so i dont think im baggin on anybody, I only bagged the guy up there tryin to play me out with the GTR/Skyline name comment. Also thanks for all the info/backround history on nissan motors, i was not aware of much of that info, interesting to know.
Dave, Just give up man..lol this forum is ruthless when they start flaming.One thing I learned here, is you can not win any type of argument here..
Originally Posted by jcrdr
wouldnt a decent tuned, built block, tt'd Z beat the new upcoming gtr!???
It will be difficult to take it from the line, with GTR's AWD and all...
But they DO feed 3 diffs as opposed to us having just 1, when you build the motor you can pretty much get any hp you want as long as you have the $$ to back it up. An aftermarket traction control system will probably help a lot, for the $$ that the GTR's will go for, not the MSRP, yes, you'll tear it a new tailpipe.
Originally Posted by CFaddict350z
Im not whining here man, im trying to throw stuff out there and get responses from people. Trust me I been doing research, I get all my parts from MRC here in Jersey, I talked extensively to both Jay and Julien about the FI setup,I rode is Jays car when it was first done, i know what FI feels like in our cars,, money is not an issue for me here either.
So yes, a lesson learned would be that FI is a bad idea unless you have a "blown motor fund". But then again, if you have that cash reserved, why not build the motor right then and there and save some $$ on labor?
BTW, being one, I see nothing wrong about being a careful spender, I've been bugging Julian for nearly a year with "what if's" and "but if's"
Originally Posted by Oleg
MRC will be doing my car as well, so good call there.
So yes, a lesson learned would be that FI is a bad idea unless you have a "blown motor fund". But then again, if you have that cash reserved, why not build the motor right then and there and save some $$ on labor?
BTW, being one, I see nothing wrong about being a careful spender, I've been bugging Julian for nearly a year with "what if's" and "but if's"
So yes, a lesson learned would be that FI is a bad idea unless you have a "blown motor fund". But then again, if you have that cash reserved, why not build the motor right then and there and save some $$ on labor?
BTW, being one, I see nothing wrong about being a careful spender, I've been bugging Julian for nearly a year with "what if's" and "but if's"

Originally Posted by Alberto
wiesco pistons, eagle rods, stock bore with hone. ACL rod bearings. new headgaskets and arp headstuds. Shop around and u can get all these parts quite cheap. hell u can even just attach some eagle rods to stock pistons and lower the comp a little with a thicker head gasket because these stock pistons seem to cope with alot of abuse. They dont have weak ringlands like most other NA's.
Sure its not an optimal build, but it will work and it will last.
Originally Posted by Oleg
Don't count on it. 450 to the crank, maybe, not too sure about long term though, but hey, if you can drop 6-7G more into a built motor on top of it, the go for it. But if you can afford to build the motor already, may as well do it now, save some money on labor.
It's good to be so confident. Just don't go crazy if you and up with a broken rod sticking out of the side of the block...
It's good to be so confident. Just don't go crazy if you and up with a broken rod sticking out of the side of the block...
Well I am running an N/A Z with some mods and I have consistently beaten STI's off the line on the 1/4..... that part is about the driver and reaction time. They have better ETA's but what matters is who gets to the line first! So, my opinion is that a properly tuned TT Z dynoed @ 430+ at the wheels..... YES!
Originally Posted by MyZNeo
Oleg.... I have seen the dyno sheets to prove and take one hell of a ride in more than one. Read Briguymax's answer to all this ****!
OK, but there HAS been a wave of stock engines letting go that were well tuned and were at power levels that we presume as safe. The point of this post was not to challenge your knowledge of boosted VQ's, but to point out that with that power you better have a "blown motor fund". However I will laugh at you if you tell me that you are 100% guaranteed not to blow up your motor at 450whp. You will get away with it intitially, maybe for a while, but who knows...
But without launching into a fit of cheastbeating, answer me this, if you have about 7G reserved just in case, why not just spend it on the motor and save, oh, about a grand on labor? Most tuners pull the motor when installing a TT kit. If you install it on stock block, and later blow it up, you'll have to pay twice for getting your motor pulled twice. There is an old saying, "a scrooge pays for everything twice".
Come on, at your ripe age you definately should have more sence and foresight then a 21 year old jackass.
Hell, Bigbri ran 550whp on stock internals. As I have said before, none of the serious FI enthusiasts around here seemed to be too surprised or disappointed when their motors let go, they just went and got built engines.
So, my overly confident friend, I understand that you did a lot of research, but so did I. If you put a rod through your block, the whole engine will be a write-off. If you know of any engine builders that will refund your core charge for a core with a connecting rod sticking out of it's side, please let me know. Otherwise, you just wasted a couple grand there. Plus the money you've wasted for pulling the motor 2 times, you are talking nearly 3K there. So why not excercise the wisdom that should come with age, save the 3K and reward yourself with a set of coilovers or a BBK for being so smart.
Last edited by Oleg; Jul 13, 2006 at 05:14 PM.
Originally Posted by Oleg
OK, but there HAS been a wave of stock engines letting go that were well tuned and were at power levels that we presume as safe. The point of this post was not to challenge your knowledge of boosted VQ's, but to point out that with that power you better have a "blown motor fund". However I will laugh at you if you tell me that you are 100% guaranteed not to blow up your motor at 450whp. You will get away with it intitially, maybe for a while, but who knows...
But without launching into a fit of cheastbeating, answer me this, if you have about 7G reserved just in case, why not just spend it on the motor and save, oh, about a grand on labor? Most tuners pull the motor when installing a TT kit. If you install it on stock block, and later blow it up, you'll have to pay twice for getting your motor pulled twice. There is an old saying, "a scrooge pays for everything twice".
Come on, at your ripe age you definately should have more sence and foresight then a 21 year old jackass.
Hell, Bigbri ran 550whp on stock internals. As I have said before, none of the serious FI enthusiasts around here seemed to be too surprised or disappointed when their motors let go, they just went and got built engines.
So, my overly confident friend, I understand that you did a lot of research, but so did I. If you put a rod through your block, the whole engine will be a write-off. If you know of any engine builders that will refund your core charge for a core with a connecting rod sticking out of it's side, please let me know. Otherwise, you just wasted a couple grand there. Plus the money you've wasted for pulling the motor 2 times, you are talking nearly 3K there. So why not excercise the wisdom that should come with age, save the 3K and reward yourself with a set of coilovers or a BBK for being so smart.
But without launching into a fit of cheastbeating, answer me this, if you have about 7G reserved just in case, why not just spend it on the motor and save, oh, about a grand on labor? Most tuners pull the motor when installing a TT kit. If you install it on stock block, and later blow it up, you'll have to pay twice for getting your motor pulled twice. There is an old saying, "a scrooge pays for everything twice".
Come on, at your ripe age you definately should have more sence and foresight then a 21 year old jackass.
Hell, Bigbri ran 550whp on stock internals. As I have said before, none of the serious FI enthusiasts around here seemed to be too surprised or disappointed when their motors let go, they just went and got built engines.
So, my overly confident friend, I understand that you did a lot of research, but so did I. If you put a rod through your block, the whole engine will be a write-off. If you know of any engine builders that will refund your core charge for a core with a connecting rod sticking out of it's side, please let me know. Otherwise, you just wasted a couple grand there. Plus the money you've wasted for pulling the motor 2 times, you are talking nearly 3K there. So why not excercise the wisdom that should come with age, save the 3K and reward yourself with a set of coilovers or a BBK for being so smart.
Oleg, I agree with you. I'm having the engine built same time as they (Scott's Performance) puts in the TT, Cams, etc. all at one time. I like the "Foresight much better than the Hinesight". Also I want to do it only once and then comes the coilovers, suspension, etc. with the $$$ saved from replacing it prematurely. So good move MyZNeo, that's the way to think. I took a while to save up a few extra $$$ to do it with, but like you, I'm also doing it the safe way. And I also agree, no gurantees, but a much bigger better one with a built engine versus the stock one. :-)
Originally Posted by MyZNeo
Oleg.... Don't get me wrong and at my ripe and wise age I do intend to spend the extra cash and build it right..... Like my father always told me "Do it right the first time and you won't have to do it again"..... but then again when you are modifying an engine there are never any gaurantees. N/A or FI
That's true, but extra precaution never hurts...
Another good reason, even if you do start "low", you'll have so much extra room for growth with the built motor. And you won't have to do any additional work aside from retuning when you decide to up the boost.
depends on what you want...
if you want a car that rivals super cars for 50k and status amung people who like Z's... (25k for car 25k in mods) go for modding the Z
If you want status amung the everyone else buy the more expensive car. To 99% of the world a 350z with 25k in mods is still a 350z.
Also take a look at how cheap Z's with 20k+ mods go for in our for sale section.... you can only recoupe 30-50% what you spend on mods if you are lucky... so if you are planning on selling it soon it might not be worth it.
if you want a car that rivals super cars for 50k and status amung people who like Z's... (25k for car 25k in mods) go for modding the Z
If you want status amung the everyone else buy the more expensive car. To 99% of the world a 350z with 25k in mods is still a 350z.
Also take a look at how cheap Z's with 20k+ mods go for in our for sale section.... you can only recoupe 30-50% what you spend on mods if you are lucky... so if you are planning on selling it soon it might not be worth it.
Originally Posted by MyZNeo
Well I am running an N/A Z with some mods and I have consistently beaten STI's off the line on the 1/4..... that part is about the driver and reaction time. They have better ETA's but what matters is who gets to the line first! So, my opinion is that a properly tuned TT Z dynoed @ 430+ at the wheels..... YES!
I doubt you beat their reaction time by .4+ seconds
sounds like those STI's are very stock and/or have very bad drivers
Originally Posted by hypeiv
ETA's??
I doubt you beat their reaction time by .4+ seconds
sounds like those STI's are very stock and/or have very bad drivers
I doubt you beat their reaction time by .4+ seconds
sounds like those STI's are very stock and/or have very bad drivers


