I've enjoyed my Z stock for 3 years now. It's finally payed off! I've read on this forum for those three years and still dont know what the most reliable FI setup is. I might be skewed because 75% of posts are problem oriented, but it seems all kits are flawed and will cause frustration eventually. Does any setup offer oem reliability.

 

I dont care what anybody says-simply put NO

 

^^ No one can even make the claim that there kit is safer then the next because they have blown engines at some point in time.

 

So even with a built motor and expensive ems you dont think a boosted Z could offer the reliability of say a porsche 996tt?

 

I assumed you meant on a stock block-of course if you build, and use good parts and have it tuned well it will offer reliability at that point. Any motor has a shot at failing (due to many diff reasons) but given the tune is right, and the motor isnt mis-shifted/neglected it should provide trouble free boosting.

 

So built motors and good EMS are reliable without constant tweeking and adjustments, as long as you get a Pro install,tune and motor. Start and go every morning without problems all day long? For years?

 

You have to understand there are trade off's Reliable + Fast wont always = easy to live with. Here are a few small examples. Many Z guys who run large injectors know what a pain it can be to start your car after its warmed up. Took me a few days (and I still fail occasionally) to be able to start the Z when warm on the first try-sometimes leaves me looking like I drivea $hitbox at gas stations-HA. Reason being large 750cc injectors dribble then flood motor with gas on start up-which makes it starting a hot car-well hard. Another example of a small issue is maintenance. Obviously FI guys wont be running plugs for the Nissan recommended 100K mile interval, I'll be doingmin every 10-15K miles or so. Tunes change with seasons-meaning possible fine tuning, clutches that hold tons of power are harder to drive in traffic (my ATS triple disc is a french *****), and turbo kits get in the way of simple things like changing belts, or just about any regular maintenance you may think of. Or course Im being very picky about things-but I just want to give you an example of the little things you have to deal with. Its a small price to pay if you've invested so much $$$ into a built motor, and worth it everytime you downshift a few gears and get some So in the end, again yes it can be reliable on a daily basis, but wont always be as easy as stock-get the picture?

 

couldn't have said it better myself.

 

Very clear, thank you. Especially the APS french *****. Pleasing you one minute while picking your wallet the next.

So what would you say would be the least intrusive setup. Greddy twin and other twins seem to be out of the way for most maintanence. Maybe a clutch that is steetable and will hold power? Just trying to split hairs. I'm probably to chicken to even enjoy a huge setup like yours, what setup do you think would be most reliable?

 

For a VERY reliable yet streetable, like stock drive, Id do a basic shortblock build-Arais ED pistons, Eagle Rods, HKS head gaskets, ARP studs, and a JWT TT kit-as Ive read fromeverybody it drives/feels like stock, and it does make great low end/midrange TQ, Id then run it around 400-450whp levels on pump gas and call it a day-Id also advise for a fuel system/injectors as well. You could run the standard drive like stock JWT clutch/fw combo or upgrade to their HD pressure plate for an added $300-the standard clutch drivesvery simialr to stock. That would be easy on the block/motor, and wouldnt require cams/valvetrain/headwork, would cost you a few bucks to say the least-but hey, you pay to play. Contact Sharif @ www.forgedperformance.com he can offer you more advice....

 

I think the JWT gets the nod for most stock because theres no lag and feels like all motor. Thats kinda where I was leaning but really No telling if the kit itself has any better quality parts and fittings than any other kit. I think quality of individual parts is as much the experience as anything. I'm not as knowledgeable on certain parts of FI systems. What the @$%& does a soleniod do, or how bout an actuator. I've heard these parts be problems on some kits but dont know what they do.

 

On that... you must study and keep yourself well informed about parts and where things can go wrong. If you don't want to study, then you better become very close friend with your mechanic... This forum is the best place to learn about the F/I. I learned everything about F/I in this and the "other" Z forums.

Go hit that search button..

 

I agee. Still what does an actuator and solenoid do?

 

Hit Search under Actuator= 5 threads that dont explain what it does.

Hit Search under solenoid= 7 threads that dont explain what it does.


I really have been reading this forum for three years and still have these stupid questions.

Anyway, I really appreciate eveyones comments so far (Alberto).

I love my car. Just wanted to see if boosting could be made reliable and what kit/ setup has the highest quality individual parts.

 

I think you should go to the www.howstuffworks.com and read about the turbo system.

I think you are refering to the internal waste gate setup on turbo. When the desired boost is reached, turbo system needs to vent out excessive exhaust gas, which could over spool the turbo causing the overboost problem. So, in the turbo exhaust housing, there is a swing arm gate. This swing arm gate is controlled by an actuator, and an actuator is controlled by a solenoid. Go read my Forge actuator WOW! thread. It might help. Another def for solenoid is boost controller. Most electronic boost controllers have solenoids inside. When the desired boost is reached solenoid lets out the charged intake air to the actuator. Thus actuator will push the swing arm gate open..

 

I have the jwt kit and it feels great it rides like you put a v8 in your z its nice and smooth and with a minor build pushing 430-450 its you best bet for a strong stock like feel. Now if you want a monster go the greddy/aps tt route with a built motor and make 500+ but for me 430 is plent for a street ride.

 

I think Alberto summed it up nicely. Power always comes with a tradeoff in longevity....there are no free lunches. Professional race teams spend 10's of millions in R&D, and their engines still fail on the track from time to time. If you want a setup that provides near 100% reliability, and an OEM experience, a JWT on a basic built shortblock at 450whp will meet your needs perfectly.

I'd also, say, that a JWT TT kit, on a stock block at 350whp is also ultra safe.

 

probably a stupid question...but would a supercharger offer more reliablity?

 

not really its all the same lower boost on stock block 330-360 on stock block and a good tune only puts you in a safe position but it does not mean you will be 100% safe there alway something that can go wrong. As for a built block and good tune your in the same position "really safe BUT anything can happen"

 

From my research the Stillen sc seems to have the fewest issues/complaints/blown engines. It's also the least bang-for-buck choice and you have to get a new hood. So there are some tradeoffs.