brake boosting a TT 350z.
07-31-2007, 05:49 AM
#261
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Originally Posted by KPierson
It won't go up for sale until we get a few more reviews.
You can't build boost if there is not load on the motor. If the car is sitting still, you can't build boost (unless you have the brakes locked up).
You can't build boost if there is not load on the motor. If the car is sitting still, you can't build boost (unless you have the brakes locked up).
Ok, but will there be enough load using brake boosting from a roll on 1st gear? I'm asking this coz STS kit when shutdown for over 30 mins the turbo doesn't spool until it is driven a few blocks or get the car under load for a few mins. I'm hoping to speed up the spooling if I can have it get a few lbs of boost in first gear without driving 5 blocks to do it.
07-31-2007, 05:57 AM
#262
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There should be, I've never done it in first gear though, and I would strongly recomend against doing it for what you are saying.
Brake boosting puts a ton of stress on your rotors and pads, and you'll wear your pads out quickly if you brake boost frequently.
I've never heard of a turbo system having the problem you are describing. You could, technically, put the motor under a load without driving it as far/fast with this, but like I said I wouldn't do it to my car. Brake boosting is really meant to be done at highway speeds (40-70mph) and for very short periods so your rotors don't warp from the heat of applying your brake pads while throttling the vehicle.
Brake boosting puts a ton of stress on your rotors and pads, and you'll wear your pads out quickly if you brake boost frequently.
I've never heard of a turbo system having the problem you are describing. You could, technically, put the motor under a load without driving it as far/fast with this, but like I said I wouldn't do it to my car. Brake boosting is really meant to be done at highway speeds (40-70mph) and for very short periods so your rotors don't warp from the heat of applying your brake pads while throttling the vehicle.
07-31-2007, 06:07 AM
#263
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/\ Great, I would not do this all the time but only in the track. Sometimes you end up waiting for over 20 mins to get your turn and Rear-Mount Turbo doesn't like being shut down for a long time.
If there is any other solution to pre load the engine from a stand still that will be sweet too.... I just need it to hit 1-2lbs of boost and I'm good, as long as I get the Turbo spooling a little.
If there is any other solution to pre load the engine from a stand still that will be sweet too.... I just need it to hit 1-2lbs of boost and I'm good, as long as I get the Turbo spooling a little.
08-01-2007, 07:47 AM
#266
Originally Posted by KPierson
All the test modules have been finished and are ready to ship. They will go out either later today or tomorrow (depends on when we ship next).
I don't have any install instructions yet, so I will have to Email those when they are finished. It's actually a pretty easy install:
Yellow - switched ignition power
Black - ground
Purple - Brake signal input from pedal
Orange - Brake signal output to ECU
On the '03-up 350Z the brake signal is a blue/orange (pin 101) wire, the ground is black (pin 1), and the switched ignition is white/blue (pin 109).
On the '03-up G35 the pin numbers are the same, but the brake signal wire is pink/blue.
As always, use a voltage meter to verify each wire before splicing in to it to make sure you got the right wire.
I don't have any install instructions yet, so I will have to Email those when they are finished. It's actually a pretty easy install:
Yellow - switched ignition power
Black - ground
Purple - Brake signal input from pedal
Orange - Brake signal output to ECU
On the '03-up 350Z the brake signal is a blue/orange (pin 101) wire, the ground is black (pin 1), and the switched ignition is white/blue (pin 109).
On the '03-up G35 the pin numbers are the same, but the brake signal wire is pink/blue.
As always, use a voltage meter to verify each wire before splicing in to it to make sure you got the right wire.
I snapped a few pics and I have my video camera with me, so I should have some footage tonight for you guys....
Last edited by Alberto; 08-01-2007 at 08:09 AM.
08-01-2007, 09:52 AM
#267
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Your first assumption is correct - it should be 0vdc when OFF the brake, and it should read 12vdc when you are ON the brakes. This is the same wire that runs the brake lights - so natually you need 12vdc when you want the lights to be on.
08-01-2007, 10:01 AM
#268
Originally Posted by KPierson
Your first assumption is correct - it should be 0vdc when OFF the brake, and it should read 12vdc when you are ON the brakes. This is the same wire that runs the brake lights - so natually you need 12vdc when you want the lights to be on.
edit-I also dont have a diagram to see what the PIN #'s are on the ECU, I pulled apart the main connector from the UTEC, and the pins arent labeled.
Last edited by Alberto; 08-01-2007 at 10:05 AM.
08-01-2007, 10:33 AM
#272
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According to the '03 service manual:
Pin 101 - Blue/Orange - Stop Lamp Switch (12vdc when brake depressed, 0vdc when brake released)
Pin 108 - Black/Red - ASCD Brake Switch (12vdc when brake released, 0vdc when brake released)
According to the service manual you want the blue/orange wire, but according to your readings it sounds like it is the wrong wire. You may want to try and find the black/red wire and see if they somehow got them switched up or something like that.
Pin 101 - Blue/Orange - Stop Lamp Switch (12vdc when brake depressed, 0vdc when brake released)
Pin 108 - Black/Red - ASCD Brake Switch (12vdc when brake released, 0vdc when brake released)
According to the service manual you want the blue/orange wire, but according to your readings it sounds like it is the wrong wire. You may want to try and find the black/red wire and see if they somehow got them switched up or something like that.
08-01-2007, 10:36 AM
#273
alberto,
make sure you don't have 2 wires in the harness of the same color. I noticed that in the harness of my G.
Kevin is correct, though. the wire you are going to tap will show no volatge until the brake pedal is pressed! Use a test light; it is quicker and easier than using a multimeter.
make sure you don't have 2 wires in the harness of the same color. I noticed that in the harness of my G.
Kevin is correct, though. the wire you are going to tap will show no volatge until the brake pedal is pressed! Use a test light; it is quicker and easier than using a multimeter.
08-01-2007, 10:37 AM
#274
Originally Posted by KPierson
According to the '03 service manual:
Pin 101 - Blue/Orange - Stop Lamp Switch (12vdc when brake depressed, 0vdc when brake released)
Pin 108 - Black/Red - ASCD Brake Switch (12vdc when brake released, 0vdc when brake released)
According to the service manual you want the blue/orange wire, but according to your readings it sounds like it is the wrong wire. You may want to try and find the black/red wire and see if they somehow got them switched up or something like that.
Pin 101 - Blue/Orange - Stop Lamp Switch (12vdc when brake depressed, 0vdc when brake released)
Pin 108 - Black/Red - ASCD Brake Switch (12vdc when brake released, 0vdc when brake released)
According to the service manual you want the blue/orange wire, but according to your readings it sounds like it is the wrong wire. You may want to try and find the black/red wire and see if they somehow got them switched up or something like that.
btw-do you have a pic of the ECU PIN connections/numbers? I could do it that way also by locating the Pin 101 and just testing that.
edit-myself and a friend are using a testlight AND a multimeter. I didnt see another wire that same color but I'll double check.
08-01-2007, 10:42 AM
#275
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Looking at the circuit layout I'm now somewhat confused (Page 513 of EC.PDF).
This picture shows both brake signals going through the different connectors throughout the car. The wires change colors at each junction, and I think they have made a mistake. I hate to ask you to probe a bunch of wires, but I would definately look for a black/red wire (there may be more then one) and test it with your meter. If that doesn't find the correct wire I would then look for a pink/blue wire (same color as G35). All of these color combinations are used for the brake wire, just in different parts of the car.
If you don't feel comfortable doing this, I have a local buddy with an '03 Z I can check out tonight or tomorrow.
This picture shows both brake signals going through the different connectors throughout the car. The wires change colors at each junction, and I think they have made a mistake. I hate to ask you to probe a bunch of wires, but I would definately look for a black/red wire (there may be more then one) and test it with your meter. If that doesn't find the correct wire I would then look for a pink/blue wire (same color as G35). All of these color combinations are used for the brake wire, just in different parts of the car.
If you don't feel comfortable doing this, I have a local buddy with an '03 Z I can check out tonight or tomorrow.
08-01-2007, 10:46 AM
#276
WTF! We have tapped the black with red, and it was 12v off the brake so thats not it. Also tried the red/black stripe and nothing there either on/off the brake.
Best way would be to see a diagram of the PINS on the ECU connector, that way if I find the pin # I can just tap that wire regardless of color....
Best way would be to see a diagram of the PINS on the ECU connector, that way if I find the pin # I can just tap that wire regardless of color....
08-01-2007, 10:49 AM
#277
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I would caution against using a test light as these are low current inputs/outputs on the ECU. If you have an 'old school' test light with an actual light bulb in them you can damage the ECU.
Here are some pics:
THIS IS THE ECU SIDE - THE HARNESS SIDE WOULD BE MIRRORED
Here is the diagram side by side of the two circuits. You can see that the l/or (blue/orange) wire jumps back and forth. I think they got this switched - I can't imaged that the wires would change colors that way. That would make our wire a pink/blue wire BEFORE the last connection, and a black/red after the last connection
Here are some pics:
THIS IS THE ECU SIDE - THE HARNESS SIDE WOULD BE MIRRORED
Here is the diagram side by side of the two circuits. You can see that the l/or (blue/orange) wire jumps back and forth. I think they got this switched - I can't imaged that the wires would change colors that way. That would make our wire a pink/blue wire BEFORE the last connection, and a black/red after the last connection
08-01-2007, 10:55 AM
#278
It was the pink w/blue stripe wire. That showed no voltage when off the brakes, and 12V when on. I tapped into the easiest bundle of wires going into ECU-Pics to come in a few minutes for those doing this in the future. I'll wire in the module right after work...
08-01-2007, 11:02 AM
#279
Ok, I didnt tap into that rear bundle (thats hard to get to in my case with the UTEC) of wires that go into the ECU. I went with the bundle you see as soon as you pull off the passenger side panel-requiring a flat head for cupholder and 2 10mm bolts btw. Pic of bundle I used-circled in red....
Second pic is us finding the wire, and light ON when ON the brakes...
I should be brake boosting very soon
Second pic is us finding the wire, and light ON when ON the brakes...
I should be brake boosting very soon
Last edited by Alberto; 08-01-2007 at 11:07 AM.