Do you have to get Guagues with the Vortech kit
not really necessary as long as you get it tuned safely, but you're playing with fire going at it blind with an aftermarket kit that the car wasn't designed to run from the factory. You'll have no idea if something is wrong. IMO oil temp and A/F are the most important ones with the vortech. A boost gauge I can't really say has been critical with the vortech compared to a turbo because it's fairly consistent. Fuel pressure is good to know, but if you're running into a serious problem, it'll show up in your A/F gauge. EGT isn't really that useful, and even less so with a supercharger.
Last edited by sentry65; Dec 22, 2006 at 10:05 AM.
Ive been hearing that oil pressure is more important than oil temp.
Gauges are the next thing im ordering, Boost, fuel pressure, oil pressure or temp. I will be going with Defi. Oh and 2k sounds like ALOT for the Vortech install and a grand for gauges is crazy!!!!
Gauges are the next thing im ordering, Boost, fuel pressure, oil pressure or temp. I will be going with Defi. Oh and 2k sounds like ALOT for the Vortech install and a grand for gauges is crazy!!!!
oil pressure comes standard on the Z, but yeah in the case of the G35, that's a very important gauge too that you'll want
$2000 for a vortech install is highway rape
I'd find another shop. That's a rediculous price
$1000 for gauges install is just stupid
that shop is trying to rip you off - a lot
$2000 for a vortech install is highway rape
I'd find another shop. That's a rediculous price
$1000 for gauges install is just stupid
that shop is trying to rip you off - a lot
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Originally Posted by Wicked350
Hmm Yeah the guy wants 2k for the install of the kit and then another 1000 for guages.
Should I pass and do an A/F later?
Should I pass and do an A/F later?
Find another shop
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From: Maui, HI =>Killeen, TX =>IRAQ
Originally Posted by Wicked350
Hmm Yeah the guy wants 2k for the install of the kit and then another 1000 for guages.
Should I pass and do an A/F later?
Should I pass and do an A/F later?
lol wow 3thousand just for the installs??
No need for a boost gauge on the s/c. A/F is a good one as long as you get a good setup. No BS gauges like a Greddy a/f or autometer a/f. You need a WIDEBAND A/F setup, dual channel if you can afford it. Oil pressure is second on my list. You can use the stock one if you like (although factory gauges are not the most accurate). Oil temp is not really necessary.
to me, oil temp actually shows the temp of the engine and since the oil is shared with the vortech, it can give you clues how the engine really is doing.
Also, especially now in the winter the oil temp gauge shows you when the car is even remotely ready to pushed hard. It takes a LONG time to warm up the engine oil when it's 40 degrees outside at 70-80mph on the highway and the car has been sitting in the 50 degree garage all night long. Especially if you have an oil cooler and bigger oil pan - When I'm cruising on the highway, I actually have to drive at 4500 rpms for a few minutes to get the temps up. Otherwise the oil cooler works TOO well and won't let the oil warm up
I absolutely won't push the car until the oil temp reaches at least 140 degrees, and that takes sometimes 20 minutes of driving depending on if it's highway or city driving here in the winter. People who get the car going and start pushing it within 3 minutes of starting it when the oil is still less than 90 degrees, the car is not even close to normal operating temperatures yet. You'll most likely shock the pistons and rods by having part of the engine run really hot at WOT and be cooled with (relatively) extremely cold oil. Also cold oil is more sludgy than warm oil, so it'll be a little harder for the oil to reach every part of the rods and pistons to cool them
Oil pressure can give you a clue as to what the temp of the oil is because the pressure goes down once the oil temp reaches normal temps. It also lets you know that there is in fact enough oil in the engine or at least the ballpark.
Without an oil temp gauge, your only clue about oil temp is oil pressure and the coolant temp gauge. The stock coolant temp gauge is CRAP. Don't trust anything about it. I've found that I can raise the coolant temps by running the A/C for a couple minutes which I think helps a little with getting the engine warmed up.
as for when the oil is running too hot, a hot engine can potentially lead to detonation or can burn oil up faster or potentially warp/melt something - even possibly not engine block related like a hose or something. You'd have to have a pretty damn good reason to want to continue to push the car hard when the oil temp is reading 270+ degrees. There comes a time when turning the heater on and the oil temp gauge helps you to know when that might be.
Otherwise, how do you know how hot the engine is running? The stock coolant gauge won't tell you until it's too late. Trying to figure it out with the oil pressure gauge is a little vague. EGT is really just short term temps and cools off quickly by not going WOT, I suppose your A/F might change to slightly richer if it's even noticable, I guess you can kinda use the ambient temp readout on the stock left factory gauge which reads the temps in the bumper area, an aftermarket coolant gauge works pretty well, but coolant tends to be more stable than oil temps. Maybe an air intake temp might give a clue, but I tend to think that's kinda not a very useful reading to get
I really can't think of anything that'll let you really monitor your engine temps otherwise other than an oil temp gauge.
Also, especially now in the winter the oil temp gauge shows you when the car is even remotely ready to pushed hard. It takes a LONG time to warm up the engine oil when it's 40 degrees outside at 70-80mph on the highway and the car has been sitting in the 50 degree garage all night long. Especially if you have an oil cooler and bigger oil pan - When I'm cruising on the highway, I actually have to drive at 4500 rpms for a few minutes to get the temps up. Otherwise the oil cooler works TOO well and won't let the oil warm up
I absolutely won't push the car until the oil temp reaches at least 140 degrees, and that takes sometimes 20 minutes of driving depending on if it's highway or city driving here in the winter. People who get the car going and start pushing it within 3 minutes of starting it when the oil is still less than 90 degrees, the car is not even close to normal operating temperatures yet. You'll most likely shock the pistons and rods by having part of the engine run really hot at WOT and be cooled with (relatively) extremely cold oil. Also cold oil is more sludgy than warm oil, so it'll be a little harder for the oil to reach every part of the rods and pistons to cool them
Oil pressure can give you a clue as to what the temp of the oil is because the pressure goes down once the oil temp reaches normal temps. It also lets you know that there is in fact enough oil in the engine or at least the ballpark.
Without an oil temp gauge, your only clue about oil temp is oil pressure and the coolant temp gauge. The stock coolant temp gauge is CRAP. Don't trust anything about it. I've found that I can raise the coolant temps by running the A/C for a couple minutes which I think helps a little with getting the engine warmed up.
as for when the oil is running too hot, a hot engine can potentially lead to detonation or can burn oil up faster or potentially warp/melt something - even possibly not engine block related like a hose or something. You'd have to have a pretty damn good reason to want to continue to push the car hard when the oil temp is reading 270+ degrees. There comes a time when turning the heater on and the oil temp gauge helps you to know when that might be.
Otherwise, how do you know how hot the engine is running? The stock coolant gauge won't tell you until it's too late. Trying to figure it out with the oil pressure gauge is a little vague. EGT is really just short term temps and cools off quickly by not going WOT, I suppose your A/F might change to slightly richer if it's even noticable, I guess you can kinda use the ambient temp readout on the stock left factory gauge which reads the temps in the bumper area, an aftermarket coolant gauge works pretty well, but coolant tends to be more stable than oil temps. Maybe an air intake temp might give a clue, but I tend to think that's kinda not a very useful reading to get
I really can't think of anything that'll let you really monitor your engine temps otherwise other than an oil temp gauge.
Last edited by sentry65; Dec 23, 2006 at 09:45 AM.





