I recently added a greddy type-RS to my car, but was disappointed the fluttering sound that cameout of this BOV at low pressures. Also, it seemed that I have to have full boost (9 psi in my case) to get a nice blow-off sound.

All this made me decide to see what can be done...........and here is what I did. The three slideshows take you step by step on how to modify your Type_RS BOV for better performance. If you are pushing huge boost numbers, you probably don't need this mod. Basically, this od reduces the internal spring setup to a single spring, ratehr than dual srping. The dual spring setup is just too strong for low to medium boost levels.

The end result is a great sounding Bov with no fluttering at all!!! Full boost blow off sound awesome, even part throttle blowoffs have nice sound, now.

DISASSEMBLY

http://s7.photobucket.com/albums/y28...1170001742.pbw

CHANGING THE SPRING

http://s7.photobucket.com/albums/y28...1170001513.pbw

REASSEMBLY

http://s7.photobucket.com/albums/y28...1170001742.pbw

 

Id love to read this but your DIY is not showing up.....

 

I couldn't figue out how to embed the slideshows, so I just link them instead.

 

thanks...

 

Nice Quadcam, thanks.. I am going Greddy here soon so this is helpful..

Thanks!

 

Kool idea this would be really bad for high boost though because while boosting it would start to open up and lose pressure.

 

sure, but that is why the BOV also has a preload set screw. At psi in my car, there wasn't any problems, but at 18 psi in a built motor car, you might be able to get away with more preload, or you just put the second sping back in....easy and modular!!!

 

sound clip???

 

sorry, no sound clip......it's just an easy and worthwhile mod if you happen to have a Greddy RS BOV. It doesn't change the sound of the RS valve, it makes it more authoritative because more air will pass through it.....The valve won't be prematurely closing anymore.

 

good writeup just ordered my Greddy RS.

 

awesome...have had my Greddy RS on my JWT TT now for about 3 hours and was ready to get rid of it because of the fluttering...I also had to tighten the pre-load screw down a lot due to idle issues....does the pre-load screw loose it's effectiveness if I do the single spring mod?

 

I have just modded my RS and will have to wait until the winter weather and my bad luck clears before I install and finish the turbo kit.

 

someone please post sound clips. how much is the BOV selling for?

 

www.forgedinternals.com

Sharif is selling it for 185 shipped.

 

HOW DARE YOU... lol

Id buy it from Sharif even if it were a few dollars more expensive fortunately hes the cheapest around and I had it this morning when ordered fri afternoon.

 

I agree. My post is about to disappear..

 

on your JWT setuup, the MAF is a draw-thru.......You may want to leave both springs in there. You nee the valve closed at idle. for you to hold the valve closed, at idle, with only one spring, you will have to add alot of preload which will shorten the overall max opening of the BOV (you are compressing the spring alot if you have to add alot of preload). On a draw-thru MAF setup, you are kind of screwed if you want a good blow-off sound.

You could always relocate the MAF so that it is in a Blow-thru setup. put the maf after the turbos and after the intercooler like on the Greddy, or TN kits and then you can have fun with your BOV...plus you could have 2 air filters( one for each turbo!!!)

 

I picked mine up on EBAY (brand new) for $120. some guy had a change of plans and was sellign all the parts he had collected, but never installed!!!!

 

i was thinking about that but a retune as well as cutting and extending the wires for the MAF would be necessary...so eff that....actually all i did was unscrew the stupid horn thing and tighten the screw a little more....thing whistles like a prostitute now....everytime I let off the gas i think i'm being solicited

 

Thats some funny $hit..