vortech or stillen stage 2?
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ok I searched in the FI forum and found nothing on this subject that answers my question. so here it is... I'm wanting to do an S/C on my Z and am stuck between the stillen stage 2 and the vortech. I know the vortech has higher peak numbers but stillen claims it has more power in the lower and mid ranges. So my question is which one would perform better 0-60 and in the quarter?
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I have a Stage 2 and I can say it gets to 60 in a hurry. I have not driven a vortech but from what I have read its power band is longer than the stillen. the stage 2 peaks out at 4 or 5k, but by then your already at 100mph. You will get alot of different answers here. Not many slips on stillen SC on this site but there may be one or two on the vortech.
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Originally Posted by S1AMEZE
0-60 = Stillen. 1/4 = Vortech. Best bet IMO is the Vortech. A little more power on top, yet still "safe" on a stock motor.
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you can get a vortech to have equal torque at 2500 to a stillen stage 4. Above 2500 the vortech will destroy the stillen. A lot of it mainly has to do with how the vortech will actually benefit from cams, headers, and HF cats/test pipes, and a good exhaust, especially with an upgraded pulley. That's only if you're willing to put the money into it though.
otherwise the stillen has the advantage below 4500 rpms while the vortech has the advantage at WOT. Going down the 1/4 mile where you're in the WOT rpm range (4500-6600 rpms) the vortech will win.
If you have a REV UP 300 hp engine that revs up to 7000 rpms, the vortech is absolutely the SC to go with. It'll make 10 psi out of the box and a better belt design than the regular vortech kit and will shine reving from 5000-7000 rpms when going WOT
otherwise the stillen has the advantage below 4500 rpms while the vortech has the advantage at WOT. Going down the 1/4 mile where you're in the WOT rpm range (4500-6600 rpms) the vortech will win.
If you have a REV UP 300 hp engine that revs up to 7000 rpms, the vortech is absolutely the SC to go with. It'll make 10 psi out of the box and a better belt design than the regular vortech kit and will shine reving from 5000-7000 rpms when going WOT
Last edited by sentry65; 02-06-2007 at 08:47 PM.
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Well i don't have the rev up but i do have a rev limiter raised to like 7200 from AAM. How exactly do you get the vortech to have the same torque? Are you refering to the pulley upgrade? I think I want to leave the supercharger system stock and just tune it with a UTEC and use my supporting mods plus headers
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right now i'm kinda leaning towards the vortech. Is the stillen THAT much more reliable than the vortech? and what kind of issues do people running the standard vortech, at stock psi, with a good tune run into?
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I personally wouldn't really do much to rev a regular stock 287 hp engine to 7200 with FI. I mean, maybe reving to 6800 or 6900 in 1st gear, but that's about where I'd stop - especially with a vortech where it'll continue to run more and more boost. Besides that, you run a higher risk of snapping your belt the higher you go. I wouldn't really do it anyway unless you at least had stiffer valve springs and cams to get the heat out of the engine faster and water injection to help cooling
well I should make a correction, I have seen ONE stillen stage 4 dyno where it was making 35 tq more than my car at 2500 rpms and we didn't match up until 3200 rpms. But the other stillen stage 4 dynos I've seen I've had close to equal tq at 2500 rpms and then I went up as the stillen gradually went down as rpms rose.
It varies though as each car and dyno are different, it's hard to compare, but roughly 2500-3300 rpms I have equal tq to at least a stillen stage 2 dyno. Depending on what clutch you get and how you set your idle, you may never actually drive the car below 2000 rpms - I don't with my setup anyway. Also if you ever got a 3.9 final drive, that really seems to help vortech setups if your tires are decently sticky. That'd add 10.7% more gear tq to the wheels and that REALLY helps with the car at low rpms - that'll easily make up for any engine tq difference a stillen might have over a vortech at low rpms.
It's expensive than just getting a stillen stage 2, but you can get decent results with the vortech's low end. All you gotta do with a vortech to get a lot of tq down low with a vortech is to get a 2.87 pulley, upgrade the fuel system, good headers, HF cats/test pipes, cams, exhaust, plenum, and tuning and you're pretty much there.
as far as reliability, that's a mixed bag IMO. The stillen's key to fame with that is the conservative tuning and its inability to make decent power up high. So if you're racing to redline the engine won't actually make much power because it'll be limited by the stock headers, cats, cams and the blower which runs out of breath.
The vortech's key to fame with reliability is that at low -mid rpms it's not really stressing the engine much. Up high it does some, but it only occurs when you're racing
either one can blow your engine if it's not tuned and maintained right
well I should make a correction, I have seen ONE stillen stage 4 dyno where it was making 35 tq more than my car at 2500 rpms and we didn't match up until 3200 rpms. But the other stillen stage 4 dynos I've seen I've had close to equal tq at 2500 rpms and then I went up as the stillen gradually went down as rpms rose.
It varies though as each car and dyno are different, it's hard to compare, but roughly 2500-3300 rpms I have equal tq to at least a stillen stage 2 dyno. Depending on what clutch you get and how you set your idle, you may never actually drive the car below 2000 rpms - I don't with my setup anyway. Also if you ever got a 3.9 final drive, that really seems to help vortech setups if your tires are decently sticky. That'd add 10.7% more gear tq to the wheels and that REALLY helps with the car at low rpms - that'll easily make up for any engine tq difference a stillen might have over a vortech at low rpms.
It's expensive than just getting a stillen stage 2, but you can get decent results with the vortech's low end. All you gotta do with a vortech to get a lot of tq down low with a vortech is to get a 2.87 pulley, upgrade the fuel system, good headers, HF cats/test pipes, cams, exhaust, plenum, and tuning and you're pretty much there.
as far as reliability, that's a mixed bag IMO. The stillen's key to fame with that is the conservative tuning and its inability to make decent power up high. So if you're racing to redline the engine won't actually make much power because it'll be limited by the stock headers, cats, cams and the blower which runs out of breath.
The vortech's key to fame with reliability is that at low -mid rpms it's not really stressing the engine much. Up high it does some, but it only occurs when you're racing
either one can blow your engine if it's not tuned and maintained right
Last edited by sentry65; 02-07-2007 at 08:48 AM.
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Originally Posted by danielwebb
So my question is which one would perform better 0-60 and in the quarter?
Originally Posted by MI 35th
you should do some research... having upped rev-limit and 287 rod bolts and FI is a bad combo... just talk to Alberto
Last edited by Alberto; 02-07-2007 at 03:53 PM.
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This subject has been beaten to death. Good info. in here, but definitely take the time to do a search. Even in this sub-forum, there have been several threads with great info comparing the two.
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I was thinking about the whole raised rev limiter thing earlier today, I know the higher the rpms go the more boost an S/C puts out. Maybe I'll just get my car detuned or just not ever take it close to the rev limit... OR maybe I'll build. Wonder how much that would cost me
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any ideas of what extent i would need to build my motor for something like this and what it would cost?
With the raised rev limiter would I be better suited for a turbo running like 7 psi?
With the raised rev limiter would I be better suited for a turbo running like 7 psi?