mvthree50

iTrader: (3)

Alright thanks, so l'll go with Osiris do I need still a wideband controller?

str8dum1

iTrader: (11)

not really, as long as your tuner has one on the dyno.

mvthree50

iTrader: (3)

Thanks...yeah that's what I thought. Thanks everyone for the help

TunerMax

iTrader: (2)

I disagree about not monitoring your AFR, to me that's WAAAAAYYYYY more important than an oil cooler if yo'ure talking about being 'safe'.

Any normally N/A engine that has been boosted should be monitoring Oil pressure, Oil temperature, boost, and AFR >IMHO<
Oil temperature can be passed on but the others are essential if you ask me.

Granted, with a SC this is LESS important than with a turbo because there's less chance of overboosting and overheating, but still.

mvthree50

iTrader: (3)

Well I will be buying an A/F gauge so if anything were to go drastically wrong I wouldn't be totally in the dark

str8dum1

iTrader: (11)

tuner max, what FI setup do you have?

if something were to go drastically wrong, by the time you saw anything on your gauge, your motor would be cooked. You need electronic failsafes more than you need any gauge.

binder

iTrader: (8)

+1

Gauges are just for fun and for minor adjustments. If something in the system fails the engine will be damaged (maybe irreversable) before you will see it and can react. For simple things like the a/f being just a little high it would be nice but if it suddenly jumped to 14:1 during boost the damage is done by the time you get your foot off the gas.

I would, however, monitor a/f before oil temp if I had to choose between the 2.

mvthree50

iTrader: (3)

Got it, after tuning for the most part bearing something terrible, A/F should stay relatively the same correct? And because I'm getting the v3 vortech, an oil cooler is just preventative but not as necessary because the oil is self contained?

akks350z

iTrader: (26)

sup guys been while, i need help, problem i had 4 months ago has come back, when i start car it immediately bogs, and stalls unless i push gas peddle to floor and after high rpm rev it idles perfect, if i turn car off same thing happens, driving its been getting worse to point i dont drive it, it wants to stall and only way to stop stumbling is to stomp on the gas and it clears up but comes back when light throttle usually if slow shifting and rpms go under 800 it happens, 4 months ago i changed so many things... im just about over trouble shooting but here are couple questions

what are symptoms of bypass valve getting stuck?
what are symptoms of inline vortech fuel pump failing?

and any other ideas to what might be wrong?

OldManZ350

iTrader: (23)

If all systems are working correctly, Then

Most likly a Tuning Problem for sure.....can be corrected.

BPV and Inline pump have nothing to do with the problems you are having.

Not enough Info.

What made the problem go away?

What is your Idle set at?

What hardware for Fuel and Timing Control?

Who tuned the car? and when?

What have you done to trouble Shoot it?

Also, please list your complete seup in regaurds to motor.....

PM Me if you would like.

TimRod

DeployedArmySGT

Quick question, How does Stillen advertise as being "The only 50 state legal supercharger/turbocharger for the 350z." but the Vortech would technically be 50 state legal? It has a CARB E.O.# and California is the strictest state when it comes to vehicle performance. Im lost... The Vortech S/C is still CARB legal, right?

- bigc -

iTrader: (18)

vortech is still CARB legal

TunerMax

iTrader: (2)

Good points, But catastropic issues are not relaly what I was talking about, I was talking about gradual errors/high temps and high pressures, AFR's that are good warning signs when stuff isn't running properly for whatever reason, intake leak, over-driving, lack of oil cooling, whatever.

Still solid points. But yeah, if the engine is going to just suddenly lean out or detonate looking at a gauge after or during is pretty pointless anyways . Well, looking at anything except maybe a datalog or the pieces would be pointless.....

I just feel if yo'ure boosting an N/A car you should be watching the effect that has on your engine, all those parameters are things I"d want to constantly watch for. If your oil pressure or temp starts climbing beyond what's normal you have the oppourtunity to investigate or stop it before it becomes a problem, this is esepcially important to me with the V2, where you're adding an external oil system to the engine.

Just a suggestion, it's not like it won't "work" without it.

DeployedArmySGT

Thanks for the clarification.

NAbuilderZ33

iTrader: (1)

Much thanks for this tread! I learned alot and I am getting a tuner kit for myself which should be here in a few days. Lots of great information here!

Z33Garage

iTrader: (3)

^ same here man

EliteZ

iTrader: (1)

Not sure if this is out there yet or not. But I couldn't find it.


If you have a 32/28 setup on the REV-Up Engine, It should give you 1lb more of boost.

The cog belt size is 536 8M GT 20 and can be found on eBay under the Jason Industrial belt brand.

usingthejohn

iTrader: (11)

Here is my parts list, with installation to start by myself, this weekend:

-Vortech V2 (non-revup); I purchased the Revup conversion kit w/ 2.87 pulley from Superchargersonline
-NGK 1-step colder plugs
-DW 600cc injectors
-Osiris
-Innovate LC-1
-Innovate oil pressure/temperature guage
-custom 2.5" exhaust w/ Magnaflow muffler

Its going into a G35 revup sedan, and it's a VERY basic build right now. Hoping to add at least an RFS by the end of the year. Anything else I should look at right now for a stock block FI setup?

350z006

iTrader: (79)

No Walbro pump?

And how are you doing your tune?

usingthejohn

iTrader: (11)

oops..
Yeah, Walbro 255lph pump; I have the Uprev Osiris/Cipher cable. Probably have Church's do my tune. I don't want to learn how to tune on my car